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Outstanding job. As an ex fabricator/welder I know how difficult it is to weld cast anything. In the days before mig I worked in a place that repaired cracked engine blocks. They would build an oven around it with fire bricks and gas jets. Leave it burning overnight till cherry red and two old boys would sit on an upturned bucket, stripped to the waist and set to with a really long oxy torch wrapped in asbestos and wire and cast rods as thick as your thumb. They had a bucket of water to quench the torch in. Amazing.

I wanted a new design so I drew this which I quite liked. So I made this to make it easier. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Various patterns filled with sweet smellies to protect from the plague and offset the stench.

Thanks @SUP Took a lot of head scratching, mainly trying to work out how I was gonna be able to use a sewing machine guide at some point using very thin leather without marking it. The answer was basting tape. Glue the first strip down and then run a strip of BT along the top edge. Then use the edge of the BT to align the bottom of the next strip and then BT that strip and so on. No need to mark the leather. @Aventurine A very good question. Look at the one on the right and you'll see it stitched all the way around. Very finicky and time consuming which would drive up the price. I could glue the edge with colour which again adds to the time. I don't think this is a "premium" product which puts me in one of those quandaries that pop up whenever money is involved. I think the answer lies in a wider band which would be easier sewing around the edge. I would have to make another clicker die cos I don't have a wider one.

The sewing shop that hangs a few of my offerings has a good percentage of lbgtqxyz etc ? I mentioned that I might try some pride stuff and she said it might go down well especially as she is taking a stall at a big pride convention thing in August and she would take some things with her. This is my first attempt. I'm aware that we don't make much on keyrings so this is upholstery leather on some stuff I was never gonna use so ok on materials but that was eclipsed by sewing time. By the time I got to the first picture I hated my sewing machine and I absolutely knew that some bits would be unusable but hey! We have to experiment don't we! This is what was in my minds eye when I started and although it doesn't look as though there's much to it, it took a surprising amount of work. Was it worth it? I'll let you know.

You could try asking Oklaroots on you tube. She uses them quite a bit. Not usually for leather but that doesn't matter. Come back when you find em. I did a quick look a while back.

I must have a good one. I have one motor, if I'm turning corners I press lightly, it skives, if I'm on a straight bit it goes as fast as I wanna press and it skives. I should add that it doesn't get used that often.

Welcome from Kent, UK.

Fair enough. I'm just trying to be helpful here. For a normal bag I'd agree with you. But my heavy duty shopping tote is around a foot or more wide when full and my handles are useless and I'm thankful for the shoulder strap.

If I was gonna be picky I'd say make the handles a little bigger to go over the shoulder or add a shoulder strap cos when it's loaded it's gonna be heavy. But still a great job.

That's a great practical bag. Well done.

Welcome. I won't make the joke about having a big trench handy for the stuff that goes wrong. I'm sure that, like me, after you've soaked up some learning you'll be happy to give it back to someone else down the line the same as the rest of us.

Not such a problem for those of us without that big wad of money in it.

This. I designed my bifold wallet to have 11 pockets. I did skive the life out of it so it's fairly slim. Lives in my back pocket so no closer.

Just re-read this. Just to be clear I was joking about my dementia not Keith's.

Sorry about the dementia Keith. This is the label from my machine. Might give you a parts list at least.

Exactly the same as mine Brian. Good catch. Does the NPS work as it should? Mine doesn't, it's a different type to yours, it works but not consistent.

Nothing wrong with veg tan. 1mm is a bit on the thin side but that depends on the size of the bag. Don't see why it would stretch but it won't hurt to fully glue a backing onto it. I'll dig out some pics of my big ole stripey tote. This tote is ultra soft and is only about 1.5mm even with the pigskin liner. It's almost 2ft across the top. The backing was needed for strength because I used the French seam throughout.

I hate FB also and can't work it. This is the best I can do and it's been a journey. I'll email to anyone that wants them. PM your email.

Don't know if these have been posted before but it won't hurt to get them out again. Couldn't load pdf files so I think I've put some on here. LEATHER PATTERN CLUB | Facebook

OK, I'll sort out some old Tandy patterns that I'm sure were free but for now - If you want to do the bag you're showing, Start out with the bottom. Find something stiff and thick maybe 5/6mm. Get it the size and shape you want then glue/stitch/rivet a piece of the bag leather to it leaving about 10mm overlap all round. Fold the overlap over, this will give you the size of the panels. Make sure you mark the center both ways. You will eventually insert this from the bottom and the overlapped leather will allow you to stitch from the outside instead of having to get one hand inside and stitch blindly. Use the circumference of this bottom piece as the size of the front/back panels with some overlap. (The size of the top of those panels is up to you, as is whether you make them out of one piece or two.) clip the two panels in situ and make sure you have a tight fit with the bottom piece. if happy the stitch up the two panels, insert the bottom and stitch from the outside. This will ensure the bag will sit on the rim thus keeping the bottom clear of the ground. You might want to fit the handles and anything else whilst the panels are flat. If fitting a fabric liner you could skive the top of the panels so you can fold over and trap the liner in between. Let me know if anything is unclear. Good luck.

I would suggest you need a template or a pattern or a hell of a lot of trial and error for this bag. Measurements have to be precise. I don't know what machines you have or if you intend to hand stitch. If you can't find a pattern maybe you could adapt one. I made some of these from a Dieselpunk pattern a while back. All hand stitched but I guess you could machine it. Most of Dieselpunks patterns come with a video tutorial.

Maybe their leather is soft-er or thicker or front/back panels are softer but the gussets are thicker. Maybe they have "bones" in them like the old fashioned corsets. No way thin soft leather can stand up on its own. Maybe the examples you're looking at are filled with items that help it stand. Pictures might help.

I'm wondering why you're using soft leather and then wanting it to stand up? I made a huge tote with soft outer and soft pigskin glued in liner. Never made to stand up. I built it with a shoulder strap to help with the weight. It's made hundreds of trips to the supermarket and gets loaded up with all the heavy stuff. The strap leaves two hands for two other bags.

@Boguita sounds like you have much to offer as well as learn. Welcome.