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Fair enough. I'm just trying to be helpful here. For a normal bag I'd agree with you. But my heavy duty shopping tote is around a foot or more wide when full and my handles are useless and I'm thankful for the shoulder strap.

If I was gonna be picky I'd say make the handles a little bigger to go over the shoulder or add a shoulder strap cos when it's loaded it's gonna be heavy. But still a great job.

That's a great practical bag. Well done.

Welcome. I won't make the joke about having a big trench handy for the stuff that goes wrong. I'm sure that, like me, after you've soaked up some learning you'll be happy to give it back to someone else down the line the same as the rest of us.

Not such a problem for those of us without that big wad of money in it.

This. I designed my bifold wallet to have 11 pockets. I did skive the life out of it so it's fairly slim. Lives in my back pocket so no closer.

Just re-read this. Just to be clear I was joking about my dementia not Keith's.

Sorry about the dementia Keith. This is the label from my machine. Might give you a parts list at least.

Exactly the same as mine Brian. Good catch. Does the NPS work as it should? Mine doesn't, it's a different type to yours, it works but not consistent.

Nothing wrong with veg tan. 1mm is a bit on the thin side but that depends on the size of the bag. Don't see why it would stretch but it won't hurt to fully glue a backing onto it. I'll dig out some pics of my big ole stripey tote. This tote is ultra soft and is only about 1.5mm even with the pigskin liner. It's almost 2ft across the top. The backing was needed for strength because I used the French seam throughout.

I hate FB also and can't work it. This is the best I can do and it's been a journey. I'll email to anyone that wants them. PM your email.

Don't know if these have been posted before but it won't hurt to get them out again. Couldn't load pdf files so I think I've put some on here. LEATHER PATTERN CLUB | Facebook

OK, I'll sort out some old Tandy patterns that I'm sure were free but for now - If you want to do the bag you're showing, Start out with the bottom. Find something stiff and thick maybe 5/6mm. Get it the size and shape you want then glue/stitch/rivet a piece of the bag leather to it leaving about 10mm overlap all round. Fold the overlap over, this will give you the size of the panels. Make sure you mark the center both ways. You will eventually insert this from the bottom and the overlapped leather will allow you to stitch from the outside instead of having to get one hand inside and stitch blindly. Use the circumference of this bottom piece as the size of the front/back panels with some overlap. (The size of the top of those panels is up to you, as is whether you make them out of one piece or two.) clip the two panels in situ and make sure you have a tight fit with the bottom piece. if happy the stitch up the two panels, insert the bottom and stitch from the outside. This will ensure the bag will sit on the rim thus keeping the bottom clear of the ground. You might want to fit the handles and anything else whilst the panels are flat. If fitting a fabric liner you could skive the top of the panels so you can fold over and trap the liner in between. Let me know if anything is unclear. Good luck.

I would suggest you need a template or a pattern or a hell of a lot of trial and error for this bag. Measurements have to be precise. I don't know what machines you have or if you intend to hand stitch. If you can't find a pattern maybe you could adapt one. I made some of these from a Dieselpunk pattern a while back. All hand stitched but I guess you could machine it. Most of Dieselpunks patterns come with a video tutorial.

Maybe their leather is soft-er or thicker or front/back panels are softer but the gussets are thicker. Maybe they have "bones" in them like the old fashioned corsets. No way thin soft leather can stand up on its own. Maybe the examples you're looking at are filled with items that help it stand. Pictures might help.

I'm wondering why you're using soft leather and then wanting it to stand up? I made a huge tote with soft outer and soft pigskin glued in liner. Never made to stand up. I built it with a shoulder strap to help with the weight. It's made hundreds of trips to the supermarket and gets loaded up with all the heavy stuff. The strap leaves two hands for two other bags.

@Boguita sounds like you have much to offer as well as learn. Welcome.

Been thinking bout getting one of these. Do they heat up instantly? Have a soldering iron that does that but far too bulky. Is there a preference? Longer lasting battery etc?

Thanks Brian. I'll hopefully find a better position for the through table bit. Over time that might saw through the table a little bit..

My clicker press is sitting on an old singer flatbed table and I've just remembered it still has the knee lift on it so I'll be robbing that. It still has the clutch motor on it as well if anyone wants it (Kent UK). I think I harboured thoughts on making a bench grinder/buffer at the time.

Turns out the frame is more important than I thought. This is the last machine I bought. I've brought the two treadles closer together than they were and I still don't like it. I'm used to a knee lift but that bar in between makes it even harder to get used to a treadle and I'm fairly sure I'll be changing to a knee lift at some point.

I know nothing about it but it's got a new servo motor on it for £100. The person selling it can't have much idea - in the picture the head is on the wrong way round. Might do someone a turn. Marketplace – Industrial Singer Sewing Machine | Facebook

This is what I do to the double sided tape on the back of my steel cutting rules.

I'm no expert on 801s but I have no problem with slow roller. I think that's what the pulleys are for, so the knife is up to speed from the get go.

Thanks Fred. I guess it's not doing any good sitting on the shelf.