toxo

Thanks for that 1hp. I'd kinda figured out that much but was thinking was there more to the first part where it talks about needle up/down. Is it saying the motor can do this or only in conjunction with a traditional NPS? Here's what mine looks like.

I appreciate that but the blurb seems to be saying that the motor is capable of needle positioning on it's own. If you look at the picture the two dots above the "P" are for needle up and needle down. I like having needle positioning. On my other two machines I've replaced the handwheel with a larger pulley to slow down the machine which it does very well as well as giving more torque and the normal NPS works very well on both. I wonder if the normal NPS would work on the motor pulley?

Does anyone have an English user manual for this motor? It came with my new machine which is a copy of the Techsew 2750. The motor seems ok and I can get it to start really slowly and speed up on the treadle but apparently it has a needle up and a needle down setting. It came with a normal NPS as well but I can't get that to work properly because the machine has a speed reducer. If someone was really good on this machine they could almost get the needle up/down on the treadle but I can't do it with any consistency. The user manual for the motor is mostly Chinese and the English bits just make me laugh. Any advice anyone?

Finally got their collars done. Modern advice is no name, just phone number in case they get stolen (was a spate of it over here). Trouble was my letters only had two "9"s and my number has three. Eventually ordered more letters and numbers from China and the damn things were slightly different. They wouldn't even fit in the "T" slot holder. Sending back wasn't an option so I set to with the Dremel and file and got it done. If you look closely you can see the odd one out but at least the dogs can go out with their new collars.

Finally got it done. Not perfect by any means but it does what it's supposed to do. Didn't help using the wrong thread and had a blip with the stamping but overall I'm pleased and as usual I learned a lot. It's already had a couple of turns through the Microwave. Still not sure about smelling leather whilst I'm drinking my tea but no doubt that will go away. Mistydog was my soulmate. She would bring my slippers whenever I came home. Now I have two of her Granddaughters and her great Granddaughter.

Welcome from Medway, Kent

Not that I've done it but a good way to shape wood severely is to laminate thin pieces steamed around a jig or form and glued up. I know it as the West system and they lay up yacht hulls with it. It's very strong.

Got some dog collar types with fold over tines somewhere but can't find the damn things.

Is the wheel part of the press? If so what does it do?

Looks good. That watch needed a nice strap.

I would imagine magnets strong enough to hold your work would be hard to get apart for a start. also needs to be smooth so won't mark your work. Might be able to do something for a watch strap but think half a handbag.

Looks like a good job well done. Thought about stuff like this many times but no space and can't get anywhere near the outside so I'll stick with my mini one for light engraving.

Sorry Folker, have searched all of marketplace for it and can't find it but found some other goodies for you. I'd look at the "29" myself if I had some space. (2) Marketplace – Singer Sewing machine 29K58 | Facebook (2) Marketplace – SINGER 45K/89 HEAVY DUTY CYLINDER ARM INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINE. | Facebook (2) Marketplace – Pfaff post bed industrial sewing machine | Facebook (2) Marketplace – Singer machine | Facebook (2) Marketplace – Singer 29K3 patcher sewing machine with pedal stand WORKING | Facebook (2) Marketplace – Singer sowing machine stool base | Facebook

And that pic shows the problem exactly. The disparity between the main and the bottom stitches. Good job on the bottle.

Nice idea on the form but getting back to the video, surely if you don't mark the main body then with it upside down you use a straightedge from the bottom center, through the bottom hole you can just mark the outside hole on the main body as per your drawing, no?

Not really germane to this problem but my cup is cone shaped which brought up a whole nother set of shapes which I hadn't thought of. I think everyone who calls themselves a leather crafter should make a conical leather cup/mug/jug. I do think that provided you get both sets of holes lined up, it's easier to run an awl through both punched holes on the 45. Wouldn't be watertight of course but not needed in my case.

OK here is what I was trying to do in the first place. As I've said, I don't think skipping stitches is the proper way to go even if this guy get's away with it. Another consideration is whether you're going with hole punches, chisels or awls. I got into trouble because I used punches which can be problematical unless you happen to have the corresponding set of punches with the wider spacing for the bigger circumference so unlikely to be the way to go especially if you want the 45 degree holes. I did see something a long while back where someone (might have been Leodis?) where he made a wooden 45 degree gadget so you could chamfer the edges and use punches but I digress, anyway, I'm loving this conversation and I'm trying to keep up even though my hair stands on end when I see a scientific calculator but I love that every day is a school day. TWO New Stitches to Elevate your Leathercraft! (youtube.com)

I didn't give any thought to it initially. just punched the body and the bottom with the same punch and started thinking about it near the end when I had this bubble that I knew wasn't gonna go away. Chucks drawing is an easy way to see it. I still don't know if it would be better to lose a stitch or use a wider spacing for the bigger circumference.

Well done Frodo. That's similar to how I do some bags.

Well done Chuck. That'll do it.

Works fine on 3mm firm veg tan. Not so much on 2mm soft chrome. This is just a holder. Doesn't have to be watertight. I could just put a cross on the bottom. It's the principle I'm after.

Still working on my tea cup koosie/kuzie and I've run into a problem. If you use the same punch/chisel for the main body and the bottom piece you are going to run into trouble because the main body has a bigger diameter/circumference than the bottom piece so if you don't allow for it by the time you run out of stitch holes in the bottom piece you still have some left on the main piece and a big bulge as well. Now being a bit mathematically challenged I turned to YouTube. I could only find one vid that advocates sort of dropping stitches when the holes are no longer opposite each other and I think I remember Armitage saying the same thing years ago. This doesn't work because when you start out the holes ARE opposite each other and the problem doesn't arise until it's too late to do anything about it. I know the answer is somewhere in the PCD math (Pitch Circle Diameter) but I don't have the noodles to be able to work it out. BUT there are not many problems that Paulie can't work out eventually and I've come up with a cunning plan. I know the answer is to have the same amount of holes in both pieces which means the holes in the bigger piece have to be farther apart so todays plan is to use the sewing machine. I'm gonna draw the bigger circle and because I already know how many holes there are in the bottom piece I'm gonna change the stitch length on the machine until I have the same amount of holes. If there's someone out there who knows how to work this out using to math please let me know.

For those that like messing with the unusual. There's one on uk Facebook.

This is about brass letters for hot foiling but the premise could also apply top many things. I wanted to do hot foiling so bought an alphabet set that included multiples of the most used letters. OK except that many names have multiple of the same letter and the set I bought didn't have enough. This set is what's known as "T"slot meaning they can be slotted together in a brass holder to form a name for example I wanted to put my phone number on the dog collars that I'm currently making but it has three "9"s in it and my set only has two. I saw some letters on Ebay and bought them but they turned out to be non T slot so didn't gel with the set I already had. Next I got back to the people on Ali Express where I bought my foil machine and bought another set of 8mm letters believing that they were measured from the shoulders so now have a set of 8mm letters that also don't gel with my 6mm set. Finally went back to the same people and bit the bullet and bought another set of 6mm letters. After waiting for ages this set, although they are 6mm, they don't match with the set that I already have. They don't even fit in the holder. So unless I do some shaping on this latest set I still can't do all the names I wanted to do. The moral of this story is, if you want to get into hot foiling, be sure to buy at least two sets of letters from the same seller at the same time.

Never felt the need to do one of these before and the only reason for this one is because I broke my favourite cup. Normally I'd chuck it and buy another but my mouth is dry all the time and so I take a couple mouthfuls often. The tea gets cold and I re heat it in the microwave all the time. A normal cup is too wide and the tea gets cold quickly whereas a narrow mouthed cup stays hot for longer. I found a narrow and tall cup which is perfect. I broke it and can't find another so after looking at it I decided, before I bin it to grind down what was left of the handle and make a koozie so I can hold it. I'm amazed at how simple it ain't. Because it's not straight all the cuts are not what you'd expect. I eventually worked it out and as usual I'm enjoying the learning. I've got most of it done and tomorrow I'll need to learn the basketball stitch. I think that's the one I need.