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She'll like that dikman, especially if you put it on a bag. I've been looking for a dragon also because I have family in Wales. I'd like to find a slightly more ferocious one. Re the Lightburn thing, I had a similar experience. No idea how I did it but ended up (with a little help from a member) with a nice image of my dog. Don't you just love experimenting.

You could just buy piping feet in different sizes Doc but lots of people do it with ordinary feet, usually a zipper foot for the second stitch because that needs to be real close to the cord else the stitches will show on the finished job. The piping cord you can buy ready made but most of it is fabric or faux leather. You get more satisfaction if you make your own. Try this.. Cut a piece of thin leather or skive it say a foot long and about 1 1/2 inch wide. Take a length of weedwacker nylon (or anything else that resembles a cord hard or soft the same length. Put a line of glue down the center or use double sided tape. put some on the WW as well. Place the WW down the center and fold the leather over. You now have some piping cord. Take a piece of scrap same length. On the good side glue or d/sided tape or even just clips and get em edge to edge as in @RockyAussies vid and run a stitch to keep everything together. This stitch doesn't have to be close. Take another piece of scrap and clip it on top right side to right side edge to edge. Now run another stitch but thjis one needs to be as close as you can get it to the cord with that zipper foot. You'll be surprised and impressed when you open it up.

OK, just to clarify a few things. As you can see on Brian's stills, the piping cord is attached to the good side of the leather. Good lob on the piping cord join @RockyAussie. On the video you're looking at the flesh side so it's right side to right side. There's a piping foot on the machine which has a tunnel underneath to trap the piping cord. If you look closely you can see the impression of the cord under the leather as the foot travels over it. If you're making a bag you are doing all this with the bag inside out and you have to leave an opening somewhere to be able to turn the bag rightside out. The binding is happening on the inside of the bag which not everyone bothers with because it's not seen. Just another piece of class from Brian. My Adler 69 is virtually the same as the Pfaff 335 and I have all the binding stuff for it including the main plate which is why that machine has to stay along with the new one.

Looks like you're going through it Fred. And yes, hurray for the NHS for all it's faults. I won't say at least there's light at the end of the tunnel.

I was waiting for this question to come up. As you know I have big pulleys on two of my machines and the NPSs work fine but my new machine has a box style reducer and it the NPS won't work properly. It's not a rail crash because I can start and stop really slowly (and speed up in the middle) so with some practice I should be able to needle up/down without the NPS. This did get me thinking and I wondered if anyone had tried putting the NPS directly on the motor pulley?

This is a huge question. Firstly I'll repeat something I've often said, there's not a lot of mystery to leathercraft, far more common sense and finding a way to fulfill a purpose. "Piping" covers a huge swathe of applications. Piping "cord" can be many things. I put the commas around the word because some piping uses no internal cord at all. Then there is the choice of the size of cord that's used according to the project. As an example I think the size I used here is bigger than I would like for that size of pocket. If doing it for real it would be smaller. What's the cord made of? This goes to some of your question @NatesLeatherGds, plastic cord could help hold up a bag made of thinner leather, some piping cord is made of soft cotton type material which might be useful along with a soft leather when you don't want chafing against someone's skin such as clothing or a nice collar maybe. Of course most piping is used as a decorative detail and can be very effective and not just on edges either. I'm getting excited about learning about double piping on bag panels. Check this out. Forgive the ads. UPHOLSTERY TIPS - How you can make a double Piping - MECA - YouTube

Thanks mate but I think you might be overdue a visit to the optician lol. The machine choice was purely because of the presser feet. I have lots of em for the Durkopp 239 and the new machine but not so much for the Adler 69 and because it was "practice" the thread/colour didn't matter so much either so the turned edges were done on the 69 using the colour "Toast" and the piping foot was on the new machine using a blue thread which also tested the theory that, if done right you won't see the thread.

It's not too bad from ten feet but I don't care, I've learned so much. I like to challenge myself and this was a challenge . I even made the leather strap thing that goes around the cord and joined the pieces together with that diagonal/right angle thing. I didn't do myself any favours with a fairly tight curve and those corners were tough. Even though I skived everything it's difficult to find the piping under the second piece of leather and it's a constant worry that you want to get as close to the piping as you can but you don't want to break the needle. Not sure if I was using the right size piping foot and I'm not sure sure if a piping foot is even needed with tight corners because they just wanna go straight on. I don't know if I'm brave enough to attempt the smaller pocket that sits in the middle of this one.

We've all been there Frodo. No point wasting any more brain time on it. Just move on.

Maybe it's me that's doing it wrong but I've never mollycoddled my leather, mind you I've never used really delicate leather. I regularly use a hair dryer in between coats of dye etc. I've put wet moulded stuff in the oven. I even put a big soft lump through the washing machine cos it had some mould on it.

I don't know how many times I've said I'd like to learn this stuff. I use Fireworks MX2004 and I can do a lot of basic stuff but not even a tiny fraction of what it's capable of. Trouble is if I try to go further I get a headache and in six months time I've forgotten it and have to learn it all over again.

You have to keep everything in mind but I don't think that's a factor. My two other machines have enormous pulleys instead of handwheels and the ups work fine. I've noticed that most I've seen are sloping. I think that's just to keep away from the belt but I'll check later. I'm impressed with this motor though, I can start ultra slowly and at any time can go to full speed and back to ultra slowly to finish just on the treadle. I want the np to work because I want to avoid that twitch, that errant stitch that ruins a project. This is still only a hobby for me and I don't get anything like the machine time that some of you guys put in so I want every advantage I can get.

Now I'm wondering if the slope of the needle positioner has any bearing? Will investigate molla. (Baby speak that I probably shouldn't use any more).

There's no better reason for doing anything. He was just proud of you and you have a precious keepsake. Well done.

You're right dikman. I know I answered this on Friday. Don't know where it went. Got it working after a fashion but don't like it. Now having trouble with the needle positioner. The machine is good in that, if I go slow at the beginning and end I can stop it up or down without the np. But if I go quickly there's no consistency. I did get it foot down heel up once but I lost it and don't remember what I did.

Hurry back else I'll only have ya mate to moan at.

And they're easily changed. When I made his big weekender I toyed with the idea of making one end a zipped rip stop bag within a bag for dirty shoes to save putting them in the main bag. Didn't do it though.

I don't always like em. Sometimes I think he's just putting out stuff that's not moving. But I thought this one was a good practical pattern that could have many uses.

I can't believe no-one has come back about this practical pattern for 1.99.

Dieselpunk doing a nice weekender + tutorial for cheap. https://www.leather-patterns.com/product-page/bag-pattern-leather-diy-pdf-download-weekender-bag-video-tutorial-1?fbclid=IwAR2nFVERnW13Xub8xeNztPEsDeRhfez1Qh1s8RJugFxm6LqesKVqkhx2Qww

Makes no sense. Pictures?

Looks good to me. If not quite right just turn those discs.

That one looks way better than mine.

Not the proper way to do it but inside the black cover you'll find two discs, each one has a cut out and the cutouts will be opposite each other, These cutouts are needle up and needle down. You can slacken them enough to turn them by hand to get them where you want. But don't tell anyone I told you.