toxo

If hand stitching, counting the holes on each piece will work perfectly. If machining however, there is the possibility of stretching the gusset depending on the severity of the curve. If doing a repeat pattern where the length of the gusset is already known, stretching is still possible and I would advise sewing from each end so any stretch will be worked out in the middle.

Oh! You've got one as well!

A rivet in each corner is sure to work.

Love it!

Well done! We need new toys just like kids do. Just remember they're not automatic and the smallest detail can get in the way. Looking forward to seeing what you turn out. (No pressure and you haven't got it yet.)

My pet peeve is my poltergeist. It makes sure I spend half my life searching for stuff I don't find until I'm looking for something else.

A good hack is hanging some ice cube bags in front of the fan.

What's the pattern? someone might have one or be able to help.

If being ultra picky there's no reason why this technique can't be used when machine sewing. Just leave enough thread to put a needle on.

The two on the left I consider to be skivers not bevellers but then I don't work with thick leather. When using my bell skiver and there are any bits missed I find the French skiver to be excellent and quick for the clean up. With the side arms it's impossible to dig in as long as you're working on the flat.

Thank you, but not hard to do with a pattern. Time consuming though with all those holes. It was for my daughters work and I remember sandwiching a steel cable inside the strap so it couldn't be sliced through.

If you message me I'll see if I can sort you out. I know shipping to the US is horrendous but an A4 envelope can't be that expensive can it? I know some pattern sellers sell paper patterns. Over here (UK) I could go into a local library where they have computers and they would download and print the file for me.

You're over thinking the whole thing. If you start with a decent pattern, things will fall into place much easier and at the end of it you'll have something to show for it which will leave you eager to do the next one. This was the first bag I ever made in my life. The Motoko 3 pattern from Dieselpunkro. Taught me much more than a book.

I've done a few Dieselpunk patterns and sometimes it's well worth making sure there isn't a better way to do something. For example, on the Monte Carlo pattern it calls for the bag bottom to be flush with the bottom with the return being inside the bag so to sew it you had to have one hand inside the bag and the other on the outside and it was a pig to sew and took ages. I worked out that if you inverted the bottom it did two things, firstly it meant you could sew it with both hands on the outside which saved at least an hour of sewing and secondly, it meant the bag sat on a rigid rim with the bottom off the ground. If this is not clear I'll try again.

Good job! If I can suggest a slight change. It looks like that centre line on the gusset is just a design feature. I think they always look better sewn inside out before the gusset is attached, it also gives the opportunity to insert a centre divider should you so wish.

I think you're over thinking this. Just go easy on the glue which will make it more rigid and use a longer stitch length. Easy enough to dry run with a couple of pieces of scrap.

Failing someone coming along with the proper answer, a simple pulley or sheave screwed under the table in line with the down bar of the knee lifter would do it. A cord going from the treadle, up to the pulley and across to the bottom of the down bar. If you get it right you may be able to cut the down bar short enough to avoid having to take it off to tilt the machine back.

No doubt someone will come along who knows your machine but you need to make sure that when the needle starts it's upstroke there's a loop and the hook holding the bobbin thread goes through that loop. If that's not happening you won't get a stitch. Could be it needs re timing, wrong needle size, check spring not letting off to allow the loop. Sorry, thought it was a first post. Should have read from the start .

If it's a standard old type table, The metal legs/framework is just underneath the table ends so you may not be able to cut it down.

Don't do holsters, (UK) but that is pretty and well done.

Two important things to remember, rule steel comes in two different heights and also different thicknesses. This is measured in points. 2 point is what you want unless you have really good bending machinery. 3 point is much harder to bend.

I'll always look for a cheaper/better way to solve a problem. I realised years ago that clicker dies would make the process much quicker but they've always been expensive. I worked out a way to do it that works. Not as robust as the welded steel ones but I reasoned that they were never get a tremendous amount of use. Having said that, they have been used many times and are still good. I like thinking of how much I've saved over the years. This pic should be self explanatory. The lighter coloured ones are bought obviously. If you do a search you should find one of my posts (to a Chuck question I think) where I provide links to all the bits you need. Don't forget that these were done in those days on a lowly arbor press which I also adapted to take stamps etc and even a hot foil block. (I won't be getting rid of my Lucris any time soon though) These were made using that set.

Before I got my 5 ton Lucris I cut all my clicker dies with a simple 1ton arbor press including handbag size panels. Just be ready to walk it around and don't expect to do it in on go..

Interesting idea. My first thought is to research hot foiling. Foil comes in many colours but I don't know if there are any with glue that will withstand rough useage. If using a heated stamp it should only stick in the lower bits.

https://youtube.com/shorts/uaZYioWcaXI