toxo

Assuming they're not all full sides, the simplest way to go would be to price per ft or per metre having discounted from the current price.

Thanks guys. I'm getting pieces of good knowledge from each of you and it's helping a lot and with my engineering background I've no doubt I'll get there but what would really help is to know what sort of folder you use and for what purpose. I can see where I'd like a leather binding on a handbag say or maybe a herringbone tape to tidy up the inside of an inside out tote or maybe a canvas bag. @nylonRiggingI'm certainly not averse to a bit of cutting and grinding and it was interesting to hear you say everything needs to be close up. I'll bear it in mind.

"made by sum yung gui hung lo". Made I larf that did. If I'd said it Tom would've told me off. (Just kidding Tom.) I've drooled over such set ups on YouTube Wiz. Don't get me wrong Wiz, I'm not shy when it comes to spending money when it's right and if I had such contracts I would do the same. I've no doubt that eventually I'll end up with something decent and by the time I've learned what I need to know and enjoyed playing I'll be able to do it with a flourish. Here's todays effort. The red is just over 1mm, the veg tan is 2.5 and 1mm. The red is 18mm

I spent good money on a binding setup for my Adler 69 and got nowhere with it, probably my fault but there you are. I bought one folder from JL but it's too small. Maybe it'll come good later. Don't give up.

Great job Tom. Yesterday I tightened up the belt that came with the trousers and the buckle came off! I had to find my belt before I could go out.

It always amazes me when you guys take the time to educate us lower mortals and I thank you for it but what you describe is above my pay grade. I'm about to sell my flatbed because I have no room for it. I have no room for anything. I came from a 4bed house in London to a 2 bed bungalow in Kent. One of those bedrooms is my "shop" I have one 341 machine and I'm hoping that eventually I can fashion something that won't take much to change from normal sewing to a basic binder. If I have to change out a couple bits then so be it but this is still not much more than a hobby and I'm loving it but without a brand and the supermarkets selling handbags for £15/20 there's not much chance of making any money and that's fine as long as I'm enjoying it. Back to the binder, the leather that I used is 0.8mm and actually fed through easily. I have lots of that kind of leather in many colours so I'm hoping I can use it. Don't know if it will go through a double folder, we'll see. I will be buying some ready made stuff to see what works and what doesn't. After thinking about my problem above there's one more thing to try that should've been obvious, the vertical axis. If I lean the folder out slightly and re-adjust surely that will even out the amount on each side?? We'll surely find out. Thanks again guys for all your help as always.

Being a complete novice I wasn't even sure if it was ok to use other than leather on leather handbags. In my head I was picturing a double fold with nice turned edges but in my experimenting but I'm realising how many variables there are including single/double, material, size, thickness of the material being binded and probably more. I won't be doing enough to warrant a dedicated set up but with a few pointers and plenty of trial and error I'll end up with something usable. I do have roll of bigger synthetic gold stuff that I'll probably never use but I can see where being stiffer with sharper edges will allow it to go through a folder with more control than a piece of soft chrome tan.

The folder is 18mm, I cut the chrome tan leather at 18mm. It's a sufficient thickness to give decent tension and all went smoothly but on the back side there was far less coverage and in places the stitches don't even touch the leather. I've got the folder as horizontal as I can get it so maybe there are folders and there are folders? Having said that almost all the folders I'm seeing are a lot more triangular (especially the double folders) so I can't see how they can lay horizontally so the answer may lay elsewhere. I will persevere.

Thank you.

So near and yet so far. Epic fail. How do I get the tape to come out of the folder the same on both sides of the leather? Is it a question of what type of tape is used?

OK, so it took a bit of fettling but from what I've learned ALL binders need some fetting. For starters, in my ignorance I asked for the wrong folder and it was too small. I had a couple of this type to play with and they seemed a bit simpler. Took a bit of working out to get it in the right place whilst retaining all the up/down backwards/forwards options. I also wanted to keep the original bits in case I need them later. Yay! My first ever bind. not perfect yet but definitely progress. I won't show you the back side just yet

Walking around the supermarket yesterday I noticed that they use a thick dense cardboard between the layers of bottled water (and other stuff). There was loads of it and I thought it would be ideal for pattern making and laser practice. If it's rolls you're after they're around 3ft square so would make around a 12inch roll with a bit of tape or string.

Just received from where I got my JL341 inc 10 more bobbins. £55 delivered. Now to work out how it works. I do love playing.

There's always UP.

HaHa dikman, your "shop" looks smaller than mine. I have similar boxes along a top shelf. Here's a quick idea, don't know how high your ceiling is or the new press but you seem to have a convenient height at 4 boxes down. Break there, lift the upper 4 boxes up and fix to the wall. A bit more rudimentary woodwork gives you somewhere to put the press and maybe even a bit more workspace.

A bit of a useless debate IMO and one that doesn't seem to be taking usage into account. I've never known a thread that simply holds two pieces of leather together to break no matter how it's sewn (bonded polyester/nylon). Can you snap a piece of V69 with your hands? If you can you have thick skin. Thread used under high stress conditions is different and is usually sewn inside a channel to avoid abrasion. As dikman said, I think a certain amount of ego comes from the S/S camp but you can say that about quite a lot of leathercraft and there's nothing wrong with it as long as it's not part of a strength debate.

Thanks for the replies guys. Let me start by saying that this idea is just for cosplay/steampunk type use. Apart from anything else few over here could afford a bandolier full of 17 Hornet ammo. Not many own a 17 Hornet because our laws dictate that you have to have the land or permission to shoot land before you can have one and at around 3600fps there's not much land left that hasn't been carved up in one way or another that can take that range. As you can see a normal belt size won't do it. After reading these replies I realise that they don't need straps and buckles etc. Just fix the bottom end however and throw it over the shoulder. If it looks good I'll do another to go over the other shoulder.

It's that curve that has to be thought about. Shouldn't take much to work it out, just wondered if there was a "standard". I used to reload including reforming 22 Hornet cases sometimes. Still got the presses and dies somewhere so if I can find the heads it should be easy to set em.

I came across a tin full of spent 17 Hornet cases and I thought if I can find the heads it might be interesting to put some around a hat or maybe make a bandolier. Does a bandolier have a "pattern" or just make it up? Might have some .223 around somewhere also.

Thanks for trying but it's not that big a deal. Wasn't for my benefit anyway. Was just hoping for a copy and paste sort of thing.

Just trying to get a short vid from a Chinese factory on WhatsApp into L/W because some peeps won't have WhatsApp.

As above.

An almost accident but a powerful lesson learned. A guy in the pub asked me if I wanted a couple of days work. It wasn't until later that I found out that he was a nutter with no fear of heights at all. We went to a brickyard in Kent where they wanted another 12ft built on top of the chimney. It was tall but not so tall that this guy had built some scaffolding around it up to the top level. I use the the word "scaffolding" in the loosest possible terms. When we first got there I went up for a look at the view. No guardrail and only 3scaffold boards wide. Not impressed. My job was to send up the bricks and mortar. On the second day I found myself well in front so I went up to look at progress. He'd built around 4ft. I was on my haunches livening up the mortar out of the strong wind until I stood up. I was already on the last board, the wind got me and I did the proper windmill bit with my arms. I still wonder how I managed to stop from falling to this day.

In a previous life I was a fabricator/welder using stick welding and I had to visit The Royal Eye Hospital in London a few times. Because the slag is non metallic they can't take it out with a magnet. They have to dig it out. The first time I put my chin on the black and chrome contraption the guy on the other side comes at you with this spikey thing, shines a really powerful light in your eye and says "Don't move, don't blink" and then pluck pluck. Believe me with the tears falling down you face you don't move and you don't blink. When I was done a big black nurse put drops in my eye and started to bandage me up. It got tighter and tighter and I think I might have fainted. (I was only a whippersnapper). My trauma didn't end there ........ I'm outside waiting at a request bus stop at the end of a long wide road which is a one way. The buses turn into the road about 250yards away and if no-one has their arm out on my side they keep over to the far side ready to turn right. Half an hour later, there's me still there because I couldn't see the number on the bus with my one eye until it was too late and he was turning right across the road. Eventually I learned to hail whatever bus turned around that corner.

Close shave. Did it wrap around your shirt?