toxo

I don't remember saying this! Is this you asking me a question?

Don't you just love it when a plan comes together. Well done.

If selling is your priority you must think like a seller. Regardless of what you choose to make, your target audience is about to walk past your stall in seconds not minutes. Your job is to catch their eye and get their attention. Bright colours rather than classic brown. Most won't give a toss if you stitches are nice and neat or did you use Tokenole on those edges. Once you have their attention the next thing they'll look at is price. Most won't start the day with buying in mind and might not have a lot of cash in their pocket. Of course if you are able to take card payments. that a whole different ball game and product range.

If I ever make a "real" one it'll be wider with two layers and glued and stitched. These are just to hold my trousers up and stop me wondering which pair of trousers I left my one belt on last.

The bottom one just needed a little messing and re dying so I only had to do two. Still waiting for some cord to finish my corset hat.

After years of taking my one belt from one pair of trousers to use on another pair, bearing in mind what I do I finally got disgusted enough with myself to start on three more. Bearing in mind that my world is practical and not for the benefit of others, it will just be one layer and rivets so I should be finished by the end of today.

Forgive me dikman if I'm teaching granny to suck eggs but I can't help myself if I see a way to help someone. A few thoughts. If you run a disc cutter down the web of the angle iron but not all the way through will allow you to the angle gradually until you get it where you want, Bear in mind if you use an over angle you can always stop before fully closing. The one I showed above is 60 degrees. I do have a 90 degree but ill often use the 60 for this reason. Are you planning on welding or a wooden core? If wooden you have to think about getting the leather out. This can be a hole that you can poke through or you can glue some foam rubber under the core that will automatically eject the leather after cutting it. If using foam make sure that after leaving enough knife below the core to cut your thickest leather, you might need slightly more to allow for the compressed foam. You can use thin foam and glue on extra layers until it does the job If using wood cut slight smaller to allow for the thickness of the knife. Bear in mind the screws will help with slight anomalies. If welding you'll need an accurate (paper pattern) to test on as you bend If using wood and it finishes flush with the top of the knife it'll be robust enough to walk around some quite big patterns under the press. Looking forward to seeing your first makings from your own dies.

Here you go dikman. Hope it helps. The anti cut gloves are recommended.

If I can make a suggestion mate, you'll find it easier if you turn things around and find a way to slot in the various shapes at the end of the ram. On the receiving end, say you want a right angle you could weld two bits of sharp stuff so the internal angle is around say 85 degrees (guessing) to allow for spring back. I'll try to do a short vid.

I often sew different types of leather together and and sometimes of different thicknesses as well. I would never start sewing a project without first sewing a piece of scrap and adjusting tension (if necessary to ensure the "knot" is as central as I can get it.

This is not a math lesson. Go buy a centre finder.

Looking good dikman but I didn't realise it was the railway steel you were wanting to bend Now you have to form the roundy bits and the pointy bits that get the job done. Looking forward to seeing the results.

I use my Laser Engraver for logos. It won't cut leather efficiently. When I use it I have to leave the room and it's not quick. I know you can buy more powerful Lasers with cabinets that will cut leather but what the cost of those is I have no idea. I do know that whilst you're cutting one I can cut five with these.

Just seen that ringbender on Temu. Looks exactly the same one I paid a lot more money for. I'd jump on it if I were you.

I can't see your vision dikman. What is it that you want to make with your dies? I used to buy a pattern, precisely cut out the wooden core and using the pattern and the core Id bend it around the nails until it fitted.

As Fred said Keith. This one is stuck down on the mat. This one is just a ruler. Just move the piece so it reads the same both sides and mark the center.

I honestly did start out with a big vise and a couple of six inch nails and I got reasonably good at it, only because I was fitting around a solid wooden core and lots of screws around the outside helped to get it into shape. And of course I was using 3pt R/Steel at the time so your stuff should be easier.

That's the one I've got. Handles 2pt but not 3pt. Should be good on your banding dikman. I use a longer piece of tubing over mine.

Another factor with postage is they come in 1 meter lengths. Shame you weren't nearer I would've sorted you out a few lengths. I've even got an almost full pack of 3 point somewhere that my cheapo bending gear won't handle. If that banding gear is a bit springy you might have trouble with straight lines. (unless you're putting it around a wooden block and then fixing it might be a problem cos you have to leave enough sticking out to cut the leather.) Toxo, that is very thoughtful of you. I just went for a drive and bought some steel banding. It's 0.7mm thick by 30mm wide and the rolls are between 20 - 30 metres long. They are leftovers from the manufacturing process, they get huge rolls of the stuff, approx. 1 metre wide, and slit it to 30mm and these are the bits left after coiling it to measured lengths. The stuff is used for building steel-framed houses, is very good quality and is high-tensile. It's going to be interesting to see what I can do with it. I'll probably try making wooden shapes to attach it to, but the first thing is to build some sort of jig for bending it. That sounds like it's gonna work. Rule steel is only 0.7 also but likely to be harder. If you go with a precise wooden core and a softish board I'd say you have a good chance. This is very handy for the holes if you go with wood. I've seen them cheaper than I paid. When I started it was with a large vice, 2 six inch nails and a hammer. Worked well for simple shapes. This is a mini rolling mill that was really cheap, very heavy and won't do very small circles but good for circular handbag styles. Can't remember where I got it.

Does anyone make a set for the 341 clones?

I was thinking bag sized panels. A bonus if you have another pair of hands to hold it

I assume the UK is too dear also? I did a post a while back about this where I posted a link to Partwell. Usually sold in packs of 60/100 so heavy. Better off looking for die makers who might sell you some.

Whilst I can take or leave spam as is, I'm quite partial to a spam fritter.

Placing leather on an upturned die and tapping around with a soft plastic mallet is perfectly feasible but the leather will move around unless you can find a way to stabilise it. Perhaps spray gluing on to a soft cutting board or some MDF might hold it. As dikman says, an arbor press and a soft board will work for smaller dies.

Assuming they're not all full sides, the simplest way to go would be to price per ft or per metre having discounted from the current price.