toxo

I've only just seen this thread and forgive my simple and sometimes logical mind but why can't the bobbin thread come from underneath, through the same hole in a static bobbin (eventually no bobbin at all)? Everything else would work as normal. I think I must be missing loads.

Wow! That's a question and a half. Until you get established be prepared to work hard with small profits. If you sort out decent ways to promote and sell your work you'll still need to make your work stand out against all the other sellers out there. If you can do that you're half way there but you're up against other countries who churn out inferior product that many people find acceptable. Fortunately there are people out there who appreciate hand made, well turned out products but you have to get your work where they can see it. And when it comes to pricing, don't be mislead by the prices you see online. A product listed online for a good price doesn't mean that product actually sells for that price. A couple of points, when you find something to make, do 5 or 10 at a time. I've noticed a lot of eye catching stuff I see lately has an eye catching painted design so something to look at.

I don't think that's right Keith. Take a look at these pics. Same 1.6mm leather but too far from the edge. The binding is 0.7mm and I have all sorts from 0.5mm and up. It was after manouvering to correct this that things went wonky. Can't get consistentcy. Obviously if using thicker leather a different folder is needed. This one is 36mmright angle but I'm not after binding 1,6mm leather, I have a 45mm and a 50mm coming and don't have a clue where they'll take me. The whole thing started with me wanting to bind two pieces of bag leather but as I say, no-one is sticking their neck out to say what type/size binding for what thickness of leather so it's very much trial and error. It's a good job I like pottering and have some patience. A big part of the problem is that I can't get the binder where I think it's supposed to be and at the moment, to get everything lined up it has to be further away than I'd like but the edge guide helps and as you can see it sorta works. The big question is how to angle the binder so both sides are equal????

It doesn't really matter what the size is. It's determined by the thickness of material you're binding. The question is how to ensure that both sides are equal. the binder in this case is a 36mm double fold.

Still trying to get the binding sorted out on my 341 clone. Got the swing away binder holder and the alternate front plate and feed dog but still can't get it to work. First let me explain what I'm trying to do; Want to use thin leather rather than tape. Have lots of upholstery leather in lots of colours for contrast. Want a double fold to leave a nice turned edge. First problem was couldn't get the swing away attachment to get into position without removing the bobbin slide cover. Then, after a lot of fettling o get the binder in line, I thought I'd cracked it. Then I turned it over and found this. Two things here, Firstly note my secret decorative stitching and secondly, the holes in the black stuff are from a previous attempt. The problem now is what to do with the holder to get a balance on both sides. I'll keep trying but wondering if the holder needs modifying or do I look for another? I have to say there's precious little help online. Not even a cut size for a given thickness of material for singl or double folds. As usual all the Youtube videos use the basic easy stuff. Any advice would be extremely welcome. Thanks.

The inline foot is obviously worth a look. Using a zipper foot would be my first go to simply because I already have em.They come in right and left flavours. Another approach would be to build the flanges oversize and cut to size after sewing.

Gotta love a practical repurposing. Well done.

Thanks Chuck. Don't know why I didn't do it long ago, been bugging me forever. @Darren8306 Grinder.

Something that's been bugging me for a loooong time. My engineering try squares have big lumps on em so don't lay flat on the leather. The plastic ones don't have anything on em. I found these small ones on line but the wings are too big. Eventually I cut the wings down so now they're perfect for any leather (except maybe upholstery) and give a quick, flat right angle in a trice. Just thought I'd share.

This probably won't help but I find most peeps are a bit frightened of going too far with leather. It's a lot tougher than you think. I've decided to get back into fishing and was looking for my shooting boots. Gave up shooting a long while back so haven't needed themm After searching the house for two days I realised that they must be in the garage That I don't use and was flooded a couple years ago. Sure enough that's where they were. And this is how I found em. I thought about binning them but I liked these boots and they were worn in. They went straight in the washing machine. (Not a full cycle) After sloshing about a few in the soap and a bit more rinsing. I got em out and dried em on a radiator for 2/3 hours, they were still soaking on the inside so I stuffed em tight with dry rags tied everything together and bashed all the folds and creases out with a hammer. This is how they look after a second coat of Neetsfoot oil. They'll stay like this for a couple days then I'll prolly give em some dye and seal em when they're dry. Prolly re-do the leather around the top also.

You scratched an itch dikman, well done.

Am I right in thinking that you want to do this to create a chesterfield/pillow/quilted type look? If so it would be a lot easier to use foam. I used to buy 7x4 sheets of 1/4"-3/8" foam to make the modern square typr archery targets. You can get it in various densities to suit your purpose. If I'm right, look on YouTube For Cechaflo's channel for inspiration.

You don't say how this would be carried. I'm guessing in maybe a briefcase rather than a pocket. Maybe 12 pens wide may be a bit unwieldy so maybe think about a staggered double decker. That would look cool. As for spacing, you have one pen. Is all you need, you can't cater for every size that's out there so just allow a little leeway. Ive just built a 56 loop bandolier and the loops were based on one shell case. Start with a pen and paper, it won't come to you immediately but it will come. Then maybe some card templates. Your pic shows a thing of beauty but doesn't tell all. Is the brown bit seperate and able to come out? If so maybe one green bit and two brown bits to cater for the 12 pens?

I'm never sure which one does what! I'll try one after the other until it gets the job done. I'll always try the thinners first, the toluene usually does it. This is the one I use to thin the contact stuff. I don't use it often so I'll usually pour a little if this on top of the glue before I put it away. It is an animal though, The other day I found a small plastic glass that I had left a glue brush in with some thinners was just a puddle. The white spirit is best for removing the white leather marker lines. Acetone is last.

I can totally see how this would give a rustic look, especially for the re-enactment types.

Hopefully this will turn out like a deck shoe.

I guess a round shape is more generic and easier to do. What do you think about overhanging shape so can sew around the outside? Wouldn't wear em to a party but for indoors or the garden.........

Been threatening to have a go at slippers for quite a while because I have the leather and a bit of sheepskin and at the moment I'm stubbornly walking on holes. I couldn't find any cheap outsoles and I found a cheap vinyl mat with a good textured back and I immediately thought glued back to back would make a decent sole for a pair of slippers. Draw around feet and cut out. Oversize because I intend to make things easy by sewing and binding around the outside. Rough up and glue. Work out the shape you want. I was very pleased that the 801 skiver took the sheepskin in it's stride. Top level glued and turned. Feet cut out. First try for fit. Cosy or what? That's where we're at now. More to follow.

This is a question that needs addressing. I feel that many of the videos that are out there are misleading inasmuch as hard thick leather is used or the amount of work involved in burnishing is understated. I too have found that the initial sanding raises so much more fibres than expected and I realise that a lot more work is needed to be done and wished I'd left it alone in the first place.

Almost finished. Far more work than I'd bargained for and my hands didn't thank for making the loops a bit tight. Quite happy with the result though. I haven't seen any for sale that include cartridges and these are ballistic tipped, our laws over hre are pretty strict even on components for making so I had to make sure they definitely couldn't be re used.

Stapler! Not the office type, the plier type. Use anywhere the holes are not seen. Simply remove after they've done their job. Office/Work/Home Stapler - Foska Plier Grip Stapler ST0512 - Black | eBay UK

Don't have first hand knowledge but from what I've seen you could do it with a straight fabric strap. One end around the wrist a couple times (maybe velcro) then wrap around the bar a couple times. The grip is only to hold the strap in place. You're lifting with the wrist. Ask any boatman. A round turn and a half hitch could almost hold the Titanic.

Where's the bottom "wing"? You need to unfold the bottom, then trim oversize all round so you can re wet it and clamp all round. Then force it around the corners with a bone folder or similar. Got to be wet. After drying and stitching, trim to final size.

Don't use it as much as some do but it hasn't given a moments worry and I love that I can switch it on at any time and use it without worry whether be it a serious project or to mend one of the dogs squeaky toys. Gives me more confidence than I've ever had.

Seems I spoke too soon. Had a card through the door today telling me that the sender hadn't paid enough postage. I've had to pay another £5.50.