toxo

I'm guessing the spring has something to do with it. Needs a spring to pull it back up.

Here you go. Bear in mind this is a 341 clone.

HaHa! I've just done the opposite and changed the pedal to a knee lift. Mine is a clone but the original had a chain that went from the bit at the back straight through the table to the pedal on the frame.

Beginning to think you're winding me up SUP LOL. Not about punching through the wax. Get one of these bottles (cheap as chips). Take the top off, put wax inside, put in microwave for a few seconds, put top back on and run along the stitch line or groove. Simps.

This is not about the thread SUP. It's about pulling chisels out of leather after punching. I don't do much hand sewing these days but when I did I did use both methods to make the pulling easier. Rubbing a bar along the stitch line is fine on a paper pattern before punching but doing it on the actual leather may interfere with whatever finish you want to put on. What I'm talking about above is just a way to contain the wax to where it's actually needed in a very thin line thus negating the need for any other waxing.

Have no idea how much 17000 Rand is but this is on facebook. ORYX OR341 cylinder arm leather sewing machine. Almost new. Done 1 project with it. About 30 hours sewing time. Not fit for my purpose as I do not foresee having a need to sew M8 size thread or thick leather again soon. The Oryx is a differently branded Cowboy and is renowned for its durability and quality. It comes complete with torque converter for thick material and speed control, piping and left/right zipper feet and manuals. Also a makeshift flat bed for sewing larger flat pieces. Price new with extras about R22000. I'll look at offers around R17000 slightly negotiable for fast sale. A steal at this price. Contact/Whatsapp Denys 0621276065

I think you're clever enough to work that out Fred. How do you keep your glazing iron hot? Heat pad maybe? How long does it need to stay liquid for? Some waxes are thinner than others when liquid. Maybe a slightly bigger spout? Takes seconds to run a stitch line and it doesn't matter if it hardens once in place.

I think @Beehive is the only one that mentioned that some irons/chisels are wedge shaped. The harder you hit em the bigger the hole. As far as waxing the tips, any wax will do, I've even used a block of soap. Running a thin piece along the stitch line is better than stabbing wax although using both ain't gonna hurt. An invention thought just popped into my head (happens all the time). What if you melted the wax and poured it into one of those little bottles with the tiny metal spout they us for paint and then drew it along the stitch line or better yet stitch groove? My mother never bred no fool!

Showing some skills there dikman, well done. I find the term "head knife" confusing. When following a pattern I find it difficult to use any knife that I have to drag apart from a fine pointed utility type because my hand seems to get in the way. I note that some people hold them like a dagger and drag them. Doesn't work for me. I do have a quarter round one that I quite like because it has quite a lot of blade after the curve so I can push it and still clearly see the line. Not so good in tight corners but I have other knives for that. Well done again. I always think antler/bone/horn handles look great.

`Excellent job. Very stylish. I keep meaning to do a sheath for my double hander. I didn't make it of course but I think it deserves one.

Well done Jo. I "think" my old eyes are liking the cleaner look. Personally I'd like the ads to be less intrusive. You get so used to them being there. I know whenever I've needed stuff the top of the page is the last place I look. The space could be used for easier navigation, maybe to a more meaningful ad page. For later maybe. You have enough on your plate right now.

That right there Sup is the ethos of this hobby. Hope you get lots of use out of em. Good find.

Been fortunate that my main leather shop has a big clicker press and over the years I've collected various sizes and thicknesses of off cuts that they use on that. Don't know what it's called but it's tough. In the thicker sizes I can use it almost like an anvil. Perfect for stuff like belt ends etc and unlike the thinner stuff there's absolutely no distortion. I use the self healing mats for intricate stuff like patterns.

It will be much cheaper to have a single stamp made with all your details on it.

On some machines its on the front panel. On mine I think it's F1 and F2.

I have one of those sack trucks that transform into different guises but any decent sized truck would do. I also have a strapping system that you normally find around heavy duty crates or cartons. When I sold my "69" there was just me so I cut a pallet to size and strapped it to the bottom of the machine. this made it extremely easy to move around on my own. If I was doing it just to move around the "pallet" would be just high enough to get the sack truck under.

I've never molly coddled my leather. I've even put it through the washing machine. I'll try white spirit, thinners, acetone, even I think the most potent, brake disc cleaner before I give up on it. Obviously try on a small area first. If it dries the oils out, replace with neatsfoot oil.(don't saturate)

Unless you buy from Europe where it's measured in millimeters.

Hi Josh. First of all you need to fill in your profile so we all know where you are. I'll hazard a guess at the US since you've used Buckleguy so as far as where to buy and sizes I can't help because I'm in the UK and I buy my leather face to face after I've examined it and felt it. The reason I've said that is if you want to make a bag it's not just a question of how thick/thin. If you're learning then veg tan leather will give you more opportunity to try different techniques than chrome tan will. Chrome tan is usually softer than veg tan so do you want your bag to stand up or flop like a hobo type bag? Chrome tan can come in all sorts of colours whereas veg tan can come ready coloured mostly you have to dye it yourself. You can't tool chrome tan like you can veg tan. So you have to balance what you want your bag to look like when finished but the thickness will come into it also. Like I said, I go by feel but you might not have that option. There are many charts out there showing thicknesses in ounces and millimeters and no doubt someone will come along with a more helpful explanation. I will add that both veg and chrome tan comes in different tempers (floppiness). Best advice is to talk to whoever you want to buy from, tell them what you want to make and ask them what they have. Most will be only too pleased to help. Good luck Josh and don't forget to post the pics when your done.

I had the same experience with a 341 clone. Each time I questioned an aspect of the machine, they took the trouble to send a video, ie one stitch at a time, same hole reverse etc etc. I don't think some people on here realise that the machines they're denigrating now have top brand (non Chinese) labels on em all over the world.

A white horse goes up to the bar in the pub and the barman says "We've got a whiskey named after you " The horse said "Wot Eric?"

Result Fred. This is why they can be so slick and quick. The losses are built in and it's far easier and quicker to do it this way. Imagine the time and labour it would've taken talking to someone about the problem and them finding out who to contact to get a replacement air filter and then arrange delivery etc.

Because the hobby can be all things to many people it's difficult to cater for an unknown variety. My workshop came about organically because the sewing shop that hangs a few of my stuff did classes for crochet/knitting etc and I mentioned that I wouldn't mind doing a workshop if the idea appealed. They had a room upstairs and I started with 4/5 people. I think the premise was good, I encouraged them (if they were ongoing) to choose a pattern and I took them from the start to the finish. I provided everything including the leather. Once into it they could work on it from home and bring it back each week. Could've worked very well but there was too much against me. Because I was paying an hourly rate and there weren't many pupils, the rate to them couldn't be as cheap as I would have liked. I was severely restricted by times and days which didn't always work for some people. I think it could have worked very well if I could have catered for the times that suited them. This would have resulted in more clients and therefore cheaper rates and therefore more clients resulting in cheaper rates and therefore more..... It worked quite well for what it was. Some picked bigger projects and came every week, sometimes twice. Some just wanted the basics. One guy wanted a collar for his two bitches (his words) and when they were finished he was gone. At the end of the day, if it's in ya, find a way. Might be fun.

Some of you may remember me buying a small compressor a while ago. It arrived with some damage to the small air filter so I contacted them to replace the air filter. Didn't get that far, straight away they told me to print the returns label and it would be collected on such and such a date or at the very latest it was to be returned by Feb 1st 2025. In the meantime they sent me a complete new compressor which is working fine. This was mid November. Since then the thing has been sitting by the door complete with returns label waiting for a courier that never turned up. A few days ago I received an email from Amazon saying that since I haven't returned it they charged my card again for the same thing. Every cloud ......... After fighting with an automatic message machine I eventually got someone from the far East. Pointed her to the email I got in November after which she refunded my money and told me to keep the second compressor. Happy days.

Did you do this Dog? If so how did it go? I've done a couple workshops but for paying pupils which makes it harder because you can't make it cheap unless you have plenty a few peeps taking it up. Didn't do it so much for the money, I just love teaching and I think it's incumbent on us all to pass on our knowledge. Needless to say, after paying out for materials and tools, I made not a penny but we all had fun while it lasted. I might tackle the council after the holiday to do an evening class or workshop where I would use their premises.