toxo

What you've just said are words that everyone will appreciate. You looked at it, you added constructive criticism, you applauded my attempt and I can't say how much I appreciate it. Thank you very much.

Sidecutters will do it easily, the type that look like pincers, that you use to cut copper rivets to size before doming them. If you've nothing else a sharp cold chisel will do the job. Just remember to tape up tightly.

Check out my post "Motoko3 at last" in "show off". I did exactly that. I used 2mm stainless steel wire rope. It's easy to cut with side cutters etc just tape the ends well before you cut. If the aim is to stop someone cutting through it then the ends won't matter as long as you've got at least one turn around the D ring. The strap is taking the weight

You sound a bit like me Vinito. Getting old sucks but I can tell you've usually had specific jobs to do whereas now you're working with a blank canvas. I can't get enthusiastic about something just for doing it. This is why I took on what was a big job for me for my first project and I put myself under pressure by telling my daughter when she could pick it up. I ended up working day and night at the death. Just cut out those squares and mess with whatever tools you have. It's quite amazing the things you can do without a head knife etc. Good luck.

Hope I can do something that good one day. Stunning and a good story.

LOL. Each to his own I guess but I also guess that you're not using an ancient Durkopp 239 that fights you at every turn. I know it's my fault that it won't sew a straight line and I will address what's needed but in the meantime I'd like to be able to use it.

Know what you mean Mike but if I'm gonna change it at all I'll at least try the 40. I fitted the needle position yesterday and my god what a difference! With a tap on the pedal I can do one stitch at a time but being new at this game the initial start/stop still catches me out and I think the smaller pulley might make the difference. After all the start up speed is the same I think no matter what top end you program in. The problem I have to iron out is the treadle. If you simply let go you get needle down and if you heel down you get needle up but the difference between the two is too close and I'm finding I'm going backward and forward without meaning to. I'm hoping this can be ironed out with the pedal position but it might just be a question of lots of practice.

Nice work again Andy. I know subtle is part of the design but for me I'd like the type to be slightly more readable. Does it say Grinning Beggars? You've certainly woken me up to the desktop laser printer. You use it well.

Very nice work Andy. You've definitely got the attention grabbing down to a fine art. Well done.

Yes My old Durkopp has a 12mm shaft which I found out when I replaced the handwheel with a 170mm pulley and a 45mm on the clutch motor. Now I've fitted a servo which has I think a 50mm so I'm wondering if i might try a 40mm on there but there isn't a lot of room on the shaft.

Postage may be steep but these people are so cheap it probably evens out. Couldn't want more helpful people either. I ordered a needle positioning system yesterday and it came this morning. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/accessories/motors-accessories/motor-pulleys

Thank you Amigo. Appreciate it.

Just found this pic of the inside. The sides are reinforced with thick hard chrome tanned leather but I didn't want it too dark so used thick veg tan on the bottom. I guess this reinforcing helps maintain the shape. As you can see I used the same leather for the pockets (full length on the front panel). These could have been much thinner.

Thanks Silver. Don't think the thickness is the problem. I think maybe it's the antique/pull up process that makes it softer. It's good for the panels but a sod for edges. Think normal veg tan would be easier. This has been quite a journey, Apart from the hand stitching it's taken months to get my old Durkopp working properly and I needed it for the strap. This is the first time it's done more than about a foot of stitching before something went wrong. I was praying with every stitch on that strap but the old girl didn't let me down, in fact I let her down because with only five stitches to go I didn't realise the end of the steel cable had wandered and bang. finished it by hand. She did really well. The strap ends were challenging. I didn't want just one layer of this leather holding everything so I inserted another shorter piece which meant that my longest normal rivets weren't long enough to go through five layers. The rivets in this picture (the bottom two) were taken out and replaced with copper rivets and roves which were brilliant for the job. Also, looking at this picture reminds me that I intended to add a rivet to each end of the handle but forgot to do it. It's not far away if I do need to do it. And my daughter absolutely loves it which makes it all worthwhile :)

Thanks Seagrove. A couple of ideas I would do over. I think a rolled over handle would look/feel better. An extra rivet or two at the top of the buckle strap . An extra row of stitches where the front attaches to the back would be wise I think and the two inside full length pockets could've bee thinner leather.

This is my first leather project of any kind. As part of her job my daughter did a weeks course out at Heathrow and I wanted to do something nice to reward her good work. I chose Motoko because it uses minimal techniques/tools and no skiving. I used 2.4mm pull up antique leather which proved problematical at times because it was quite soft.This has taken quite a while because I questioned my ability at every stage and so would test on scrap before I did the deed. I made mistakes and learned from them. In one respect the build was shortened because I knew the strap length and so I didn't have to do an adjustable strap. In another respect it took longer because I incorporated a security measure that took longer than normally necessary. Because she's out quite a lot of the time with her laptop and work files I wanted her to be safe from the scrotes on mopeds who would slice through the strap so I incorporated a 2mm stainless steel cable in the middle of the strap. Took a bit of fiddling but I got it done. Can't seem to be able to load a pic with the strap in place. Try again later.

Nice job munky. Know what you mean about the leather. Edges etc. Am just finishing a bag for my daughter. Should be ready for pics later (at last).

Thank you for taking the time. All downloaded. It never occurred to me that building up layers of leather was a thing. I will love the learning.

Subscribe to "niteKore" on youtube. He also has a channel on Etsy under "DieselpunkRo". Minimal tools needed on a lot of Tonys designs.

Beyond beautiful. How do you learn to do something like that?

I know exactly how you feel. I keep looking at Tonys hats and thinking that I want one but I don't wear hats. Good job!

Thanks guys. Let's hope the little mistakes here and there don't detract from it. Getting excited now, nearly finished. So many holes, so many stitches.

Coming to the end of my daughters Motoko3 from Dieselpunk.Ro. I know pull up leather is supposed to mark easily but I keep wondering if I should try to protect it. I guess that would take away from what it's supposed to do. I guess I'll leave it and watch it wear. At least that way I'll know for next time. What have you guys done with pull up? It's antique pull up.

Everyone will know who's riding that bike. Well done sir.

The one thing that's not been mentioned is "what market is there for what I'm making". Most people could find a small market for a niche product say for example an archery arm brace but it's no good spending big money on the right tools to make 1000 arm braces a week if you're only selling 3/4. Now if your contacts were big enough to be able to say "invest in the equipment and I will guarantee to take what you don't sell at minimal markup", that's win win.