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I was experimenting to see how much I could cut out hand stitching with a ground down outer foot. I was feeling quite pleased with myself at a plan coming together. - Then I broke the bobbin case. :(

Thank you Folker. Once again you come to my rescue. Let me know the cost.

Don't know how I managed it but the center post of the bobbin carrier on my Durkopp 239 has snapped off. Can someone tell me what models are compatible and where I might find a replacement please? Thanks.

Thanks guys. Appreciate all these little gems of information. This is the stuff the books don't tell you.

So glad mine is working now. I would have had nowhere to put em. Well spotted.

Looks good to me. I've just recently found out that this stamping malarkey isn't as easy as some people make it look. Well done.

Welcome and well done. Dunno about the learning bit, you could certainly teach me a thing or two.

I think you've nailed it Mike. Just wanna get used to it now.

I'll watch that shoe but sometimes it locks up and I can't move the hand wheel either way.

Thanks Gymnast. As I explained earlier, the lower disc would sometimes lock up solid and I couldn't see why so I dismantled it and then I realised the purpose of the adjuster that's fixed to the machine (I think the thread was getting behind it). Then I realised it was to adjust the position of the spring. I altered that and things were a lot better. That's when I switched to TKT20 thread and a 140 needle and tried it on the leather. The main reason for trying to persevere with the M60 is firstly because I have a lot of it (anyone wanna swap some?) and secondly because I wanted a contrasting colour for the bottom thread when I was playing with the tension. The TKT20 and TKT40 that I have are both white. I've ordered some TKT20 in another colour. This has been going on for a long time. I took it to two "repair" shops who said they couldn't do it. I've changed parts on it and every time something didn't work I had to get away from it until the enthusiasm came back. Now that I know (With the grateful help of you guys on here) it wasn't all in vain I'm really happy and can actually think about projects to do with it.

Thanks guys. kgg, haven't thought about that for a long time. Have seen vids threaded this way and started off with fewer holes but nothing seemed to work. Have since changed the whole tension unit so definitely will look at that again. Constabulary, have been using the back hook since you told me about it but the thread was still jumping out and snagging on the knurled knob. It only seemed to work properly after I fiddled with the adjuster thing in back of the tension unit. Maybe I did something wrong when installing it but there were times when it just wouldn't pull through at all even with next to no tension. That disc is still a complete mystery to me but at least it's working now. The bit when, after you finish sewing and pull the work away is still a battle sometimes and I rock the wheel and sometimes it 's free and sometimes it just won't free up. Is there a trick to this or is it just fine tuning? Now I'm looking forward to playing with it. Constabulary, do you happen to know the size of the shaft on the Jack motor. I have a 40mm pulley I can put on if it's 15mm.

You've done me again Mike! I've done just that a few times in the past. In fact I have an imgur account somewhere. (Don't think imgur does video) Here's the one breaking M60 tread. And then I dismantled the lower disc and had another fiddle. Things seemed to be better so I loaded up with TKT20 and a 140 needle and, hooray! I don't have to throw it away. Still a way to go with presser feet and tension and stitch length but I'm a lot happier now. https://youtu.be/g5bU5A38NbI

After much trial and tribulation I have it sewing again with no shredding. It is still breaking thread, sometimes under the needle plate but more often at the lower tension disc. Can someone please explain how this disc is supposed to work? There seems to be no uniformity to the breakages, sometimes after an inch, sometimes after about eight inches but never more than that. I have taken a couple of videos but I don't have anything to get them below 1.4MB. What do you guys use?

Don't know the technical way to do it. I just fix it so the feed dog doesn't move.

Great job Jack! The rivets caught my eye also but hey ho, they do the same job. He'll never lose that one.

Got cut off somehow. Just wanted to say I daresay they will post, give them a ring. They're usually busy but always helpful.

You don't say where you are Clare. I can only hope you're within reach of North London because that's where you'll find J T Batchelor 9-10 Culford Mews London Greater London N1 4DZ United Kingdom 02072542962 They don't bother with a website. As a newbie myself I can only say what a treat it is to browse in a Victorian warehouse shop with racks of all types of leather, tools, finishes and racks of dusty boxes filled with rivets, snaps, buckles etc etc. I'm always looking for an excuse to travel the 35 miles

I'll address the closer to the needle/needle bar thing for sure but I seem to have bigger problems. As the guy with the Consew is experiencing, there seems to be a problem with the space between the bobbin carrier and the needle plate. As you know Folker, originally there was a one piece singer hook which I replaced with a two piece Duerkopp hook. Firstly I decided to leave out the needle guard because it was making the problem above even worse. Secondly the Duerkopp hook can be installed two ways with 180 degrees between the two. I installed it and timed accordingly but was never sure if it was the right way round. Today I took the hook out and turned it around, I also installed the needle guard and faffed around with the timing and the needle bar. Now, apart from the problem of the thread not getting under the needle plate, I can't get the hook close enough to the scarf to pick up the thread. It seems as if something has moved on the feed dog side because I'm right up against it. I will attempt a couple of vids later If I haven't chucked it away

Welcome to my world! My Durkopp is a similar machine. For some reason there seems to be little space for the thread to pass between the bobbin carrier and the needle plate.

I'm seriously getting fed up now. New servo motor. new tension unit. tried every combination of needle sizes from 90 to 140 with 20/40/60 bonded thread. sharpened the hook and timed with zero stitch set. And still shredding thread and skipping stitches. I can only take so much and I have to walk away and do something else. But the grey matter still processes and I've just had an idea. The shredding seems to be happening below the needle plate. Now I've just looked at this picture of my cobbled together thread guide just above the needle and I'm thinking the angle of the thread is wrong. With a decent amount of tension maybe it's not only shredding the thread but might it not also pull the needle resulting in missed stitches? Will investigate and inform.

Thanks again Mike. All good advice. Just hope it's just a clamping thing and nothing complicated in there. Haven't sorted it yet cos postman brought presents today. Servo motor now fitted and working cept clipping the cables up. Will go up in a bit to change the tension unit and then let the thing beat me up some more. I'm enjoying the learning tough. Softly softly catchee monkey.

Hi Liz. Your machine is very similar to my Durkopp 239. I'm very much a newbie also and I've been where you are now. At least you have the benefit of seeing it working so if you're using the same thread/needle etc you should be up and running in no time. The rod that eases the top tension disc on mine doesn't work (it opens up the two plates on the top disc so the thread goes where it should) so I have to make sure I snag it in close to the spindle manually. What was said earlier about where you have your bobbin is right. That upright with the holes in is part of the thread path. Go in out and around those holes to regulate the thread before it gets to the top tension disc. Fashion a bent wire coat hanger to hold the thread spool for the time being. As far as tension goes, I think a rule of thumb to start with is the top thread and the bottom thread should feel roughly the same. I still haven't got mine working right yet but I'm getting plenty of trying practice. I have a new tension unit coming tomorrow and while ordering it I had a moment and ordered a servo motor as well.

About three years ago, before I had a clue about industrial machines I bought a Singer 366. I know, bad idea. The motor was screeching so I renewed the bearings and now it purrs. I need it gone now but the reverse isn't working. It looks like the lever isn't clamped onto the reversing shaft. Is there anyone who can talk me through what needs to be done? I think I have to unscrew the oil pump/filter assembly to get at the clamping bolts.

Nice job CM! Over here in the UK we're not allowed handguns so we're not down with the holster thing but anyone can see and admire the work and effort you put into it. Well done.

Stunning. A great look. Well done.