toxo

Thanks Mike (I think). So presumably the bottom plate is smooth and the top foot (or needlebar?) acts like an upside down feed dog?

OK, so what's a jump foot (meaning how does it work?) and a long beak shuttle? Some of us didn't cut our teeth on a sewing machine.

So what's different about this one?

Good to see you happy Folker. What does SV mean?

I went to JT Batchelor in London yesterday. I can't praise them enough for their helpfulness and patience. They even offered to split small amounts if I couldn't get the thickness I wanted. Whilst I was there I met a rather interesting chap called Alex Laredo, still making bullwhips and bits and pieces at 83 years young. He made all the leatherwork in this pic.

That's really good. I used the same letters on my daughters bag but I had to leave it plain because I didn't have these. Just ordered some. Thank you.

Having a go won't hurt if it's had it's day anyway. Or leave it as it is and measure the individual pieces as best you can, cut them out in card and assemble. I'm in exactly the same boat but I'll wait awhile before diving into the itty bitty stuff. Good luck.

I've just bought this one for another of my daughters. Simple enough for me I think. Picked up some nice cheapish clothing weight leather in various colours yesterday. I'm hoping to back it with pigskin before cutting out. The instructions leave a bit to be desired but should be ok. I'll let you know how I get on. https://www.etsy.com/uk/transaction/1694341638

If you want to see an absolute genius with a bit of leather and a sewing machine check this guy out. Ya know those two colour seats you get in Ferraris etc ...... https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCw_8PUaXqvjSq3p1lYouXzQ

Thanks Rocky, or is it Harry? There isn't much more to say really. Tonys (Dieselpunk.Ro or Nitekore) designs are easy to follow. I printed out the patterns on card. Some have to be joined because of the constraints of A4. There is some wastage because you cut them oversize, tape them down and cut/punch to get the finished pieces. Not sure if I will print them out again for the next one or use the old ones because they are now essentially templates so avoiding some wastage. I went with this design because it looks good and is practical whilst being doable for a newbie. No skiving for example. The holes were 1.5mm and I used John James 002 needles with 1.2mm flat waxed poly from Tandy because it's much cheaper than many of the alternatives. I struggled a bit with the needle/hole size and I noticed in Tonys video that he was using an oval punch the crafty sod. Mind you, if you go with an oval punch it's obviously critical that you line it up properly every time. Most of it I could get in a horse so not too bad but the hardest part was stitching the back panel to the front flap because you have to keep moving the flap back and forth. No glue was used in any of it. I was told the leather was pull up but I think it's oil tanned. It was expensive at any rate. Just neatsfoot and resolene on top IIRC. Here's a pick of the start. ( for someone with not much more to say, I said a mouthful didn't I.)

Thank you Mr Gaunt but it really wasn't difficult. Extremely time consuming yes but I don't even like to think about punching all those holes and hand stitching. Once I get over the trauma and think about doing another I'll think about doing it lighter like beige and tan with dark edges. I'll also use much thinner leather on the full width pockets but most of all I'll think about where I can machine rather than hand stitch which will save a bunch of time. Talking about using less leather, Now that I have the pattern pieces cut out they've sort of become templates so I won't waste so much leather by having to cut oversize and taping before the final cuts. I should add that I printed the patterns on card.

I forgot, there's a tan kote before the resolene as well.

Just Fiebings tan dye, neatsfoot and resolene.

Thanks Tug. I agree and will work at it. I ground down a couple of outer presser feet but the height of the moulding interfered with the screw holding the inner foot. I will find a way. this whole project started as an attempt to avoid hand stitching.

That level of skill sends my brain into overload.

Have a look at Gorilla Glue. Apparently has tiny bits if rubber in it so might be flexible. I made a mistake that I didn't realise until next day and I had to cut through the leather. the glue wasn't going anywhere. Really strong. has to be slightly damp material to work.

Let me say right away I am in no way "showing off". I didn't put this in "Critique" because I'm only too aware of the many mistakes I made with this build. This was my first attempt at wet moulding and I'm quite pleased with most of it. I proved to myself that I could do it, albeit badly but I've learned lessons. I struggled with moulding the leather on the corners and it occurs to me that the pear shape that some use would be easier by way of softer curves. It didn't help when my Durkopp decided to not play nicely either. Take no notice of the belt. It was my first belt some time ago and I still don't know how I want to finish it. It's not saleable but I built it to hold my night vision and spare batteries which it does really well. When on the hip it's easy to open one handed and I wish I'd had it on last night when I could have recorded three foxes who had no idea I was there until they got within ten yards of me. For those that know and might be confused I use the Pard 007 as a spotter which records in colour or black and white. The night vision on my rifle is a Starlight Archer.

What you've just said are words that everyone will appreciate. You looked at it, you added constructive criticism, you applauded my attempt and I can't say how much I appreciate it. Thank you very much.

Sidecutters will do it easily, the type that look like pincers, that you use to cut copper rivets to size before doming them. If you've nothing else a sharp cold chisel will do the job. Just remember to tape up tightly.

Check out my post "Motoko3 at last" in "show off". I did exactly that. I used 2mm stainless steel wire rope. It's easy to cut with side cutters etc just tape the ends well before you cut. If the aim is to stop someone cutting through it then the ends won't matter as long as you've got at least one turn around the D ring. The strap is taking the weight

You sound a bit like me Vinito. Getting old sucks but I can tell you've usually had specific jobs to do whereas now you're working with a blank canvas. I can't get enthusiastic about something just for doing it. This is why I took on what was a big job for me for my first project and I put myself under pressure by telling my daughter when she could pick it up. I ended up working day and night at the death. Just cut out those squares and mess with whatever tools you have. It's quite amazing the things you can do without a head knife etc. Good luck.

Hope I can do something that good one day. Stunning and a good story.

LOL. Each to his own I guess but I also guess that you're not using an ancient Durkopp 239 that fights you at every turn. I know it's my fault that it won't sew a straight line and I will address what's needed but in the meantime I'd like to be able to use it.

Know what you mean Mike but if I'm gonna change it at all I'll at least try the 40. I fitted the needle position yesterday and my god what a difference! With a tap on the pedal I can do one stitch at a time but being new at this game the initial start/stop still catches me out and I think the smaller pulley might make the difference. After all the start up speed is the same I think no matter what top end you program in. The problem I have to iron out is the treadle. If you simply let go you get needle down and if you heel down you get needle up but the difference between the two is too close and I'm finding I'm going backward and forward without meaning to. I'm hoping this can be ironed out with the pedal position but it might just be a question of lots of practice.

Nice work again Andy. I know subtle is part of the design but for me I'd like the type to be slightly more readable. Does it say Grinning Beggars? You've certainly woken me up to the desktop laser printer. You use it well.