toxo

I have lots of cones ofM60 bonded nylon in a few colours. Ideally I'd like to swap some of it for something thicker like TKT20 which I think is 138. I'm in the UK (Kent) If there's any interest I'll post some pics.

That sounds ok dikman. Which one? Always been concerned about fitting a bracket to the curved underside. Any pics?

Thanks guys. Another satisfied customer. Takes slightly more pull than I'd like but I'll take it. Oh what joy I've had this evening. I've almost bonded with it now. I've used up loads of scrap playing with tension, stitch length different materials and thicknesses. I can even one stitch at a time most of the time although that is hairy even with a 170mm handwheel and a servo motor. I haven't even had to hold the threads at start up most of the time. Now that I can trust it to do what I ask it to do I might even have a go at making something. (where's the ROFLMAO emoji?) What suggestions for an adjustable guide that won't cost me an arm and a leg?

It needs wispy smoke if not flames. Nice job. I'm liking the idea of a circular stretch frame with rawhide thonging.

Thanks guys. Logic had already told me that was the problem but didn't think of just replacing the pin. You're right Folker, I did replace the tension unit and I vaguely remember that pin not being right. My mind was playing with why the cycle wasn't stopping in the right place. I'll have a look at it later. I do love playing with it and trying different possibilities. Flat felled seams on upholstery grade leather etc and how close can I get if I grind a presser foot down?

On every you tube vid I've seen they nonchalantly lift the needle and pull the work away and what's more they can then put some more work under and start sewing again. With mine if I did that without pulling more thread through (which I quite often forget to do) it would pull the thread out of the needle. Really frustrating. It's a lovely machine but I don't have the knowledge to get it right and I think I'm coming to the end of it now. I know anything else I get will only be as good but it's consistency I need. It's bad enough learning all this stuff without faffing around with the machine all the time. If there was a good mechanic near me I'd gladly pay him but the two nearest me have both had it and said they couldn't get it working which I did myself with the help of you guys. Forgot to mention, it's not the bobbin thread it's the top thread.

I mentioned this briefly some time ago. Since then I'm gradually improving the situation but I can't help feeling that there's something fundamentally wrong with the timing. When I finish sewing with needle up I can't pull the work through without jockeying around with the handwheel. It's always been like this but after installing a servo motor and needle positioner I thought things might improve but no. I can't pull the work through without turning the wheel away from me and dropping the take up arm down to about half way. I've tried changing where it stops with the ENP but it won't let me. Where the needle does stop is about 3/8ths below it's upper limit. I've tried reprogramming the upper limit to the top and turning the motor on/off but as soon as I switch on agains guys? the needle drops down 3/8ths. I should make clear that with the needle up I can obviously pull the work away a little but the thread won't budge until I turn the handwheel. It' a Jack motor. Maybe There's a knack to it? Any thoughts guys?

You need to subscribe to a guy called Cechaflo. An absolute maestro around a sewing machine and car upholstery. Come back with your thoughts.

I know this is not usually our bag but you have to admire skill right. I think this guy must be an alien. It's not just the skill level it's the nonchalance and not a jig or a template in sight not even on the sewing machine. The guy doesn't stop talking and he can't speak English. I still watched it till the end though. I found it almost mesmerising. Probably too long for some even though it's speeded up.

It's surprising what can be done with a few tools. Think ahead, take your time and I look forward to seeing the results. And remember, the man that never made a mistake never made anything. Good luck.

I know the tooling is different but I don't see the difference between that craftool press and this kind of thing from Amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/Press-Grommet-Machine-Heavy-Eyelet/dp/B07DVC6D76/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=rivet+press&qid=1576969511&sr=8-14

Very nice work. Like it a lot.

I have to smile when I think you can make maybe 50 belts in the time I can make one.

As 480volt said, a good smack with a flat hammer with the burr on something solid will do the trick. Mind you it's the cut off shank that does the holding once it's bashed down. Just have to make sure the burr is roughly where it's meant to be.

Excellent work and a great design.I love everything about it. Well done.

You have a good eye Heather. Quality.

I think there's some smug in there somewhere Brian and why not! You're just an awesome fabricator. On a serious note I'm guessingthere's quite a gene pool of innovative thinkers over there stretching back to the day when the only way you were gonna get it was to make it yourself.

Welcome Andrew. The thing about this leather stuff is there's something in it for everyone. It's fun trying different things until you find out what your stuff is. Good luck.

Welcome Mark. That link isn't working. Think it's because I'm in the UK. Pictures on here are encouraged but have a size limit which isn't a problem if you resize. Lots of info on here about how to do that. Good luck with your projects.

If anyone is tempted to try any Dieselpunk patterns, he has announced a 50% discount on everything he sells for this coming, black Friday sale for anyone in his facebook group.

I think I've said this before, not a conditioner but normal silicone that you get in a tube can be diluted to whatever thickness you need. Can be painted on holey tarps for example. Can't vouch for food safe either.

Looks like good stuff.

Or, depending on where it is, a G clamp.

Welcome Foxen. I'm sure like a lot on here the learning will go both ways.

A lot of good advice there from Fred. I see you're using an iphone at the moment. When/if you get a DSLR you'll have much more control and there'll be settings on it that will filter any light so the pic comes out the way you want it. Take the pic with a few different settings until you get what you want. As Fred said a tripod is a must for sharp pics and keeping everything the same whilst you change things around. You'll eventually develop your own style and things will get simpler. One thing I did enjoy playing around with was slave units. No doubt they're much improved and smaller these days. They enable you to use two or three or many small flashguns instead of boxes and diffusers and such. Each one attaches to a small flashgun and when the main flash fires all the others do at the same time (well they appear to fire at the same time before some Einstein picks me up on that.). As an example of what they can do, imagine you're in a church by the altar, the light isn't great, the bride and groom are coming down the aisle with a long entourage behind them. Small flashguns hidden behind a few pews will have everything in focus right back to the church doors. Flashgun light is the same as daylight by the way.