toxo

Come on! I wouldn't dream of it. All opinions are valid. That's how we learn from each other. It's the fanatics we need to watch, the only way is their way and no one elses opinion counts for anything. You've only got to look at our UK MPs over the last couple of years to see how good that is.

Good job. I like the turned out handles.

Thanks Tug. It's embossed and I have to own up to a cock up. I didn't realise till I cut it out that it's a big bag and I questioned whether @ 1.3mm it would be thick enough so I "lined" it (glued) with some 2.4mm veg tan (all I had on hand). This of course meant that I had to punch all those holes and cut out again. Now it's more like a stylish suitcase than the collapsible gym bag I envisioned originally. Still, it's all fun right? As an aside, I have to say that the quirks of this site and the quirks of my clubs WiFi are contriving to drive me up the wall. I was sitting in the club about an hour ago and wrote all this out on my iphone. Now firstly, for some reason the clubs WiFi won't allow me to connect to LW.net. I turned off the WiFi and connected, wrote out this message and after submitting was told that I was a bad boy because I'd used an emoji. On trying to delete the emoji the whole lot went missing. I sat there and said to myself, Oh what deep joy.

Ha Ha! Chuck you should be a politician. As you can see the hole/thread/needle size can be improved on but it is all saddle stitched and it took forever. If I'd had to prick and awl I'd still be doing it now.

And that's another side to this stitching thing. I believe the reason that Dieselpunk.ro is so popular is because of his round holes. The Motoko3 I posted above was my first leather project and that was just a few months ago. That encouraged me to do many more including The Large Weekender. Would I have had the confidence to get so into it if I had to do things the "right way"? And Chuck, before we start talking about weakening the leather (and there's no doubt that it does) let's just remind ourselves how much weight a supermarket plastic bag can take.

Thanks Folker. You came through as always. I can see where there might be a problem and I'll get a bracket ordered today. At least I'll know what screws to drill for when they get here. Like Mike I've often wondered about the virtues of roller versus flat guides. I'm reasoning that if I need a flat I can just use some magnets.

Tug, I agree with everything you say but that's because I'm cursed with being able to see all sides to a story. I'd agree with anyone else with different views if they had a legitimate reason. Tradition can be all things to all men but progress dictates when tradition changes. I listened to Armitage extolling the virtues of the stitching chisel over the pricking iron and awl. There are many ways to fasten two pieces of leather and they've morphed over the years into what we use now. I'm a practical man I believe a car is for getting from A to B not looking pretty and it's the same with leather. If someone has a mind to use a stitch or a lace or a rivet etc who are we to judge? certainly not me. As for cursive writing, I like it and don't think there are many that don't and I don't see a reason not to teach it but it's a bit like morse code, if you don't use it you lose it.

Just ordered a guide from Ebay. I'm gonna have to drill and tap the holes so does anyone know the size of the bolts? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GB-6-Suspended-Edge-Guide-Ruler-Kit-For-Walking-Foot-Sewing-Machine-Acces-Parts/323970182021?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=513012230484&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

https://www.leather-patterns.com/product/pin-cushion-pattern-leather-diy-pdf-download-instructional-file/129?cp=true&sa=false&sbp=false&q=false&category_id=5

I have to pick up slightly on the slanted Vs straight thing. I think it comes down to purist versus practical. I haven't got the slanted regime down yet and I will use it where it's needed but the punched hole is much quicker because it does away with the need for an awl. The OP alluded to the fact that he prefers a straight stitch But a slanted stitch is easily accomplished by altering the hole/thread ratio. If you have a large hole and a thin thread then you'll get a straight stitch but if you have a smaller hole and a larger thread then the thread has to lie side by side which creates a slanted stitch provided that you adhere to the needle priority you mention. If you look at the Dieselpunk patterns that I pointed the OP at earlier, every single pattern/design uses a round hole punch.

I have the same one. They do a lighter coloured one also. I got fed up looking for needles once I put them down so I made one of these. It's a bit industrial but does the job and no one can see the missed stitch can they!

Good job. So it's a binding then. I wasn't sure if you'd used a lining that was cut longer and then folded over to cover the hair.

Nicely done sir. Is that leather turned or did you use a binder?

They're not expensive and they do get worn. they get lost and they do break. I think I need to point you at dieselpunk.ro. You'll be glad I did. You can buy some really cool patterns for cheap that use pdf downloads that you print out, tape em onto your leather, punch your holes and cut your leather and with almost no sense at all you can acheive something worthwile. My first leather project of any kind was the Motoko3. I used a 1.5mm punch with 1.2mm flat waxed polyester thread with a couple of JJ #2s. You could use #4s with 1mm or 1.2mm thread. If things get tight do one needle at a time. Go here; https://www.leather-patterns.com/ You find his build along vids on youtube under nitekore. His name is Tony See and be sure to join the facebook group where you'll see how well liked he is. Good luck and enjoy. My Motoko3 With very few tools I might add.

OK, Firstly, when you punch a hole you're taking material away whereas if you use a pronged chisel (You can get straight ones versus the diamond shape) you take nothing away which is why it doesn't look much like a hole. the trick is to get the needle through before the hole closes up and most people use an awl to re-open the hole before passing the needle through. As wizard said it may be the size of your needle that's making it hard. Aim to get some John James No 2 and 4 or 002 and 004 (it's the same thing according to JJ) Harness needles. If you have to make do until then just take the point off any needles you use to avoid shed loads of grief going through previous thread.

You're going about it the right way. Get stuck in and practice. There are those that won't make a stitch until they've collected all the right tools/brands etc. Well done.

And all by hand! Well done Fred.

Amen to that. It's bad enough having to evacuate let alone having everything you've built burnt to the ground but my thoughts are with those in Aus and the US who realise it's too late to get out. My God, how awful. It's no wonder to me that Aussies are the way they are what with all the wildlife trying to kill you and now this. Having said that I wish I hadn't bottled out of emigrating on the £10 ticket all those years ago.

Very nice job. Well done.

Thanks dikman. There's a decent looking one on ebay for around £16 that requires two holes where I have none so will have to drill and tap em.

I thought I was going mad. Posts and replies going missing until I realised we were posting across two topics.

I was most of the way through a comprehensive answer to this and then it disappeared. I try again later.

One of the conversion sheets that I have agrees with this but it's not that straightforward. The biggest machine sewing thread I own is TKT 20 which squishes at around 0.4mm and takes a 140 needle.When I've cleared up my project room I'll take some pics. And domestic threads don't normally come on 3000M cones.

Not a bad idea because many don't have labels at all.

It's all clear as mud to me also Folker. Why they can't standardise I just don't know. According to my sheet v69 (I think same as M) is TKT40 or T70 and takes a 100 or a 110 needle which is what i always used or thereabouts but that was before it was working properly. When I squish em with the calipers , not scientific I know I'm getting conflicting results but that's probably cos of different brands and some colours holding up better than others. If you want I can take pics with a caliper reading so you can gauge against what you have.