toxo

No. It's inside the split shaft that the plates/spring slide on. If you take off the whole tension unit you'll find a small hole. Where No 25 comes through. Looking at that last vid it might well be that your tension is just way too loose. Tighten the knurled bit right up and see if there's a difference. That at least will take up the slack stitches on the back side.

It lives in the center split and the thin end goes through a hole to the plate that you were moving in the first vid. It's job is to push out the black spring plate to release the thread.

It's probably the pin No25 that is the problem. It has a shoulder and the end is bigger. If this is inserted the wrong way round the plate can't push on it. The thin end has to go through a hole. Don't ask me how I know. Had me puzzled for a while. This has nothing to do with your tension issues though. Looks like you need to tighten up the top tension but I could be wrong. It has been known. The pin No25 lives inside the center split of the top tension unit. Your threading looks ok to me. After going through all the holes I like to make sure there's enough tension to keep the thread between the plates. More holes/less holes.

Do you mean to extend the butt or pad out the cheekweld?

Probably not strong enough but a neat solution and I don't know what sizes they go up to. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-Colour-Bag-Straps-Connector-Hanger-Metal-Buckle-Classic-Handbag-DIY-62-25-18mm/303358163979

Once again my gast is absolutely flabbered. Great work.

Another upside of using a vice or a clamp is that you can leave it to dry which will usually give a better result.

You're watching the wrong vidjas my friend. learn how to saddle stitch which puts two threads in the hole and buy the colour thread that you want.

If you can, put it in a vice for a while. If not use a good G clamp.

I can see where that could happen Brian. I suppose taking a file or some emery to it to reduce the high point at the front might work but you'd still have to open up the sline.

I hear what you're saying Bert but I don't know enough to comment further. To me a bobbin is a bobbin is a bobbin. If they're wobbling I would have thought that would be a problem with the shaft rather than the bobbin. I can see where there might be a problem if the shaft is opened so much that it's only gripping on the end and I can see where you guys might have a beef if you've paid big bucks for new macines but on my old Durkop I would just open up the split, put something in the back end of the split and close the front with some pliers to get it back to parallel if that makes sense.

On the bobbin winder spline that the bobbins go on there should be a split. Tap a screwdriver in the split and the spline will widen.

Cechaflo does it with a skiving machine.

I knew you guys would come through. Thanks guys.

This may be a stupid question but I'm gonna ask it anyway. I want to make some piping for a leather bag using lightweight soft leather. The problem is all the cordage I'm finding is like a loose soft rope and the result is lumpy and bumpy. There must be something out there that's smooth. I'm even thinking about hanging it up with a weight and a tighter twist and some glue. I know you knowledgeable guys will have the answer, preferably in the UK.

Just ordered one of these. Looks like it'll do what I need. Would've referred to get the German Scharfix but couldn't justify another £250 for something that'll get used probably twice a month. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIY-809BP-Leather-Craft-Edge-Skiving-Machine-Leather-Splitter-Skiver-Paring-Tool/312839114575?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Go watch Chechaflo doing it and be amazed. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=chechaflo+steering+wheel

Update. For future information the bolts are M6x1 and takes a 5mm drill for the tap. I got over the siting problem by cutting the end of the bolt hole to the right just enough so the presser lift is clear. I ran into a slight snag when drilling the left hand hole. I got part way in when the drill snagged. put a torch on it and it looked like hole in the casting. Was deep enough for the tap so was ok. Was a bit fiddly but all working as it should.

Firstly, can the manual skivers that are around six inches wide adnd cost around £120 do edge skiving? Secondly here's one for those that like the old stuff to mess around with, Just found it on ebay, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143489686887

Interesting! It reduces the bulk by the bump caused by the second fold. So the first stitch goes through two layers and the top stitch goes through all three? What leather is the black one? I have a light blue skin like that. It's floppy and heavy, I was told it was goatskin.

I will get the proper stuff dog but I'm itching to get on. It's only the glue on the needle I'm concerned with. If you look at the French seam above, the the two stitch lines are 5mm from the center I'll cut the tape around 12mm/15mm and those stitch lines will go through it so it can't move and then over that I'll be contact glueing some 0.7mm pigskin over the whole panel. It might turn out that it'll look ok if I leave the side stitches until after glueing the lining and then stitch through the lot in which case there's no need for extra reinforcing. Even the proper tape has to have some glue along the center to hold it in place for stitching. I've never done anything like this before and I'm loving the experimenting and the designing. It's going to be a gift so I'm not worried about the cuz asking for her money back.

This might be pie in the sky and the first part needs a post all of it's own but what if these drone were armed with the kind of explosive that starved the fire of oxygen? A bit like Red Adair putting out an oil fire. I know there's the updraught and smoke to think about but might be feasable in the future.

A lot of shops over here are still on holiday until Monday. Have looked online but haven't found it yet. I'm thinking "Duct tape" for now (don't know what you guys call it). It's sticky backed fabric but my only concern is will the glue stick to the needle/thread? I can't sew at light speed so it's not likely to get too warm. I guess I'll just have to suck it and see.

I think you're right on both counts Tug but is this guy ever on a commission? I wouldn't buy a raffle ticket from someone that smarmy.

So assuming you use the French seam, what do you reinforce with?