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I should add that my NPS is mounted on the 170mm pulley that replaced the original handwheel on my Durkopp 239. Had to make a bracket to fit it.

As a fairly newbie I don't know how qualified I am to answer this and how much my opinion is worth but once I got used the foot movements I think it's great to stop sewing and just worry about the knee lift to turn or heel down to remove the work. I never touch the hand lifter.

I'm always amazed by this kind of work. My first question is why? Personal reasons? Re-enactment? Is there a market for this kind of thing? I would guess film makers would fall over themselves to get stuff like this but wouldn't you need the contacts? Whatever the reason it's amazing work and must take an awful long time to work everything out. I just made a shopping tote from scratch and I got a headache. Very well done sir.

Hi guys. You'll find laoads of good helpful people on here and it's amazing what you can learn in a short amount of time.

OMG! That's like losing a child, TWICE.

One of those edge guide presser feet will sort that. You can get left or right.

I'm not quite understanding your problem. Are you saying you want a particular look or do you just want a straight seam? I like making bags (learning to) and I've been looking at lots of em and there are plenty of very expensive bags out there that just use overlapped edges on the outside which of course gives an edge to work with. I've just finished a large tote and got in lots of trouble because I chose the wrong seam stitch. The next time I'll use double felled seams on panels which again gives an edge on flat work. On corners I'll try more piping I think. I'm looking at these for a stitch guide after getting too close with the drop down guide broke three needles. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10SETS-PIPING-WALKING-FEET-with-R-L-EDGE-GUIDE-FOR-JUKI-DSC-244-DSC-245-DSC-246/272815313770?hash=item3f850f536a:g:6LYAAOSwu~ZdcbXr

Good job Yin. I'm intrigued by the belt loop. Is there a bent metal clip under there or is it stitched along the bottom in which case you would have had to do it at the start?

She'll regret it when it's gone. Good job. Those edges alone must've taken a while.

I would go with this suggestion but chisel first to get the spacing then drill through the rest. Maybe chisel again on the back side but I think the pattern would be "backward" but maybe would still look ok.

I really can't understand why you're so fixated on this. All this does is release the tension so you can pull the work through AFTER you've finished sewing. I'll say again, put it all back together and do some sewing. The tension you need to balance the stitch between top and bottom threads have nothing to do with this bone you keep picking at. From the start you showed that the machine is sewing. It was just the tension that needed balancing which has nothing to do with the pin you're on about.

The middle parts of the belts are missing! Just kidding. Some really good work there.

Not my style but well done.

So you had an unfinished bag and you chose to go on holiday instead! I'm astonished.

Me too. If you want some inspiration for a leather one there's a couple of designs on Etsy with patterns if you need em.

Moto is there a reason why you didn't join the two zips as in this pic of my Pitch Doctor bag? Also shows one way of avoiding the gap although I'm not a fan of velcro and the flap should be the other way round to shed rain rather than inviting it in.

Borrowed from a facebook group.

Just arrived today and I have to say, after a quick play, I'm optomistic that it'll do what I want it to do which is edges. It is temperemental but that's a given when you're using thin double sided razor blades. Veg tan is easiest but with care I managed to get some very soft 1mm down to under .3mm but need to develop a technique because of the stretch. The biggest downside for me is changing the blade. you will break blades, especially when practicing and undoing a set screw each time gets old quickly. I can see a small pair of mole grips in it's future. Might do a little video later.

Check out this video from Geordie leather. Especially from 7:37mins in. I got one of these magnets. Works a treat but won't pull the cutter out. Probably would if I soldered a cutter to the magnet but I just want one offs so won't do that. A stronger magnet could be better with solder/tack weld. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Strong-Magnets-30x20x5-mm-Neodymium-Block-craft-magnet-30mm-x-20mm-x-5mm-N42-Bar/182942145946?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=690259429188&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 I bought this box of cutters. Most of which could be used to fashion into what you need. I'm assuming you have an arbor press or similar else probably won't be cost effective against having one made but then most tools aren't. Just a thought. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24-39-Shape-Style-Hole-Hollow-Cutter-Punch-Set-for-Handmade-Leather-Craft-DIY/372848601203?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=641660429125&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Can't remember now. locally I think but I'm in the UK. Look for a Taperlock V pulley and a Taperlock bush (15mm I think, I'll have to check) but that was for my Durkopp. You'll need the bush that fits your machine. It's a simple job and I have to say finding and using the handwheel now whilst working is easier and it has more torque . Here's what they look like.. http://www.bearingshopuk.co.uk/belts/v-belt-pulleys/?pulley_pitch=24133 http://www.bearingshopuk.co.uk/belts/taperlock-bushes/?bush_series=24274 Can't remember why I went with 170mm OD, bigger equals slower. The pulley on my Jack servo motor is around 74mm OD (55mm ID). I have smaller pulleys that I would've tried but the Jack shaft is smaller. With the needle positioner and practice I can do one stitch almost all the time.

Great idea Folker. I'll have to make one of those. Won't be as pretty as yours but will do the job. I think magnets have lots of uses in sewing. I have one beneath the top laminate on my Durkopp table and it's invaluable to catch those itty bitty screws that normally fall on the floor. Do all tables have one of these?

Don't know if there's a special reason for installing one of these but I always think there are easier things to try first. I replaced the handwheel on my old Durkopp with a 170mm pulley and I can do one stitch at a time. The handwheel is just propped up there for perspective.

Excellent work. Something to aspire to.

It's not supposed to release until you've finished sewing. Get the stitches right first. Like I said once you've done that you should be able to release the thread by jiggling the hand wheel.

Absolutely not. The video shows it's working correctly. If you put everything back the way it was in the first video, tighten up the top tension knob and sew something. The first Pic shows it sewed something it just lacked top tension. As a rough guide to the needle thread issue, the needle should slide down the thread when holding the thread taut at 45 degrees.