toxo

Yes. The way you had it in the video was correct.

No. Why have you done it differently to the way you did it in the earlier video? It doesn't go over the pin.

I don't remember how but I remember the height of the presser foot made the problem go away for me. I feel like I'm the blind leading the blind.

When you tightened to the max could you pull the thread through the plates. If yes then maybe there's a problem with the way the top tension unit is assembled.

Welcome from sunny Gillingham. You'll learn lots here. Good people.

No 25 is obviously there. I notice you still haven't tightened up the knurled tension knob. I'm betting all will be well after you've done that. The spring only has to move slightly to release the thread.

No. It's inside the split shaft that the plates/spring slide on. If you take off the whole tension unit you'll find a small hole. Where No 25 comes through. Looking at that last vid it might well be that your tension is just way too loose. Tighten the knurled bit right up and see if there's a difference. That at least will take up the slack stitches on the back side.

It lives in the center split and the thin end goes through a hole to the plate that you were moving in the first vid. It's job is to push out the black spring plate to release the thread.

It's probably the pin No25 that is the problem. It has a shoulder and the end is bigger. If this is inserted the wrong way round the plate can't push on it. The thin end has to go through a hole. Don't ask me how I know. Had me puzzled for a while. This has nothing to do with your tension issues though. Looks like you need to tighten up the top tension but I could be wrong. It has been known. The pin No25 lives inside the center split of the top tension unit. Your threading looks ok to me. After going through all the holes I like to make sure there's enough tension to keep the thread between the plates. More holes/less holes.

Do you mean to extend the butt or pad out the cheekweld?

Probably not strong enough but a neat solution and I don't know what sizes they go up to. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-Colour-Bag-Straps-Connector-Hanger-Metal-Buckle-Classic-Handbag-DIY-62-25-18mm/303358163979

Once again my gast is absolutely flabbered. Great work.

Another upside of using a vice or a clamp is that you can leave it to dry which will usually give a better result.

You're watching the wrong vidjas my friend. learn how to saddle stitch which puts two threads in the hole and buy the colour thread that you want.

If you can, put it in a vice for a while. If not use a good G clamp.

I can see where that could happen Brian. I suppose taking a file or some emery to it to reduce the high point at the front might work but you'd still have to open up the sline.

I hear what you're saying Bert but I don't know enough to comment further. To me a bobbin is a bobbin is a bobbin. If they're wobbling I would have thought that would be a problem with the shaft rather than the bobbin. I can see where there might be a problem if the shaft is opened so much that it's only gripping on the end and I can see where you guys might have a beef if you've paid big bucks for new macines but on my old Durkop I would just open up the split, put something in the back end of the split and close the front with some pliers to get it back to parallel if that makes sense.

On the bobbin winder spline that the bobbins go on there should be a split. Tap a screwdriver in the split and the spline will widen.

Cechaflo does it with a skiving machine.

I knew you guys would come through. Thanks guys.

This may be a stupid question but I'm gonna ask it anyway. I want to make some piping for a leather bag using lightweight soft leather. The problem is all the cordage I'm finding is like a loose soft rope and the result is lumpy and bumpy. There must be something out there that's smooth. I'm even thinking about hanging it up with a weight and a tighter twist and some glue. I know you knowledgeable guys will have the answer, preferably in the UK.

Just ordered one of these. Looks like it'll do what I need. Would've referred to get the German Scharfix but couldn't justify another £250 for something that'll get used probably twice a month. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIY-809BP-Leather-Craft-Edge-Skiving-Machine-Leather-Splitter-Skiver-Paring-Tool/312839114575?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Go watch Chechaflo doing it and be amazed. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=chechaflo+steering+wheel

Update. For future information the bolts are M6x1 and takes a 5mm drill for the tap. I got over the siting problem by cutting the end of the bolt hole to the right just enough so the presser lift is clear. I ran into a slight snag when drilling the left hand hole. I got part way in when the drill snagged. put a torch on it and it looked like hole in the casting. Was deep enough for the tap so was ok. Was a bit fiddly but all working as it should.

Firstly, can the manual skivers that are around six inches wide adnd cost around £120 do edge skiving? Secondly here's one for those that like the old stuff to mess around with, Just found it on ebay, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143489686887