blue duck

Thank you so much. I have tried several threads and many re-threadings according to the manual. The problem was the same with the old upper tension unit and the new. I don't think that is it, but perhaps the take up lever. I will see what I can find about it. I must say it did sew at one point, I actually seen it and sewed with it. But I think the move and/or movers may not have helped, maybe it was storage. I cleaned and oiled it and serviced it according to the army (I think) manual.

Unless you are going to make it with super heavy leather, which I doubt. Those pictures look like quite workable leather. Just work it inside out and then turn it. It will be pliable enough to do that, especially that size of a tote. You mentioned before the size of the gusset and base. See the cut outs where the T is made? Depending upon how big that is, it will determine both the gusset width and bottom width. Try taking a piece of paper and cut out a 1 " square out of the bottom two corners. Fold the edges from the top of the paper to the corner of cut and across the bottom from top of both cuts, it will bring the two cut edges together and tape it. You can now see 1/2 of your gusset and bottom. You have a 2" gusset and bottom Then try a 2" square, This will give you a 4" gusset and bottom. Am I explaining this where you can understand it? I am terrible putting what's in my head on to paper. Just make sure and add enough for your seam allowance once you determine your size.

You folks are a wealth of information here. Don't know how long I have been lurking in the shadows. Didn't seem I had much to offer with my kind of leather work. But now I come begging. I have read through most every pertaining to this machine to try and get it back to working. My dad thought he was doing me a favor, even bought it from family, so there should be no problems. Yeah, well maybe not very many. She only sewed canvas with 137 and you can see where it was 'fixed' for only that application. I am not asking it to go through 6 oz veg tan. I am working with 2-3 oz, skived leather. It should go through it like butter. I am only making handbags. The top tension unit literally fell apart in my hands, so I replaced the whole unit. Still when I sew the top thread loops pretty bad on the bottom. All the advise I get says tighten the top tension, but there is absolutely no bobbin tension and I know that's not right. After reading anything and everything I could, I do believe the timing is ok, but that is the only good thing. I found a screw missing for the tension on the bobbin. You can pull it out like there is nothing holding it. I replaced those two screws. The felt washer was missing, replaced it and one other thing I can't remember now. But it is the same problem. I am thinking I should just take out that whole unit, bobbin case, hook, etc. and replace it. Is that just throwing more money into the boat anchor? We do not have a service man within 295 miles. I even offered to take it to him, but I can only realistically take the head and he has nothing to run it. It could be such a great machine, I want it fixed so bad. Where on earth do I start? Trying to keep getting my own parts and working or finding someone I could ship it to and be sure it is done right? I know they aren't worth much, lots less than new for sure, but am I going to put more into it that it is worth? I have 101 questions, but I will just stop here and hope some of you will take pity on me and point me in the right direction. (Umm, I make really good fudge, if that helps incentivize anyone Thanks so much folks, Kat

What kind of look are you going for? Do you want your seam inside and hidden? Then sew it inside out and turn it when done. If you like the look of an exposed seam then just work on the outside and don't worry about it. How was that for wishy-washy, gave you both ways to do it.

This is hardly an expert opinion, but no one else has given one. Get a bonded nylon thread. It is strong and won't stretch out on you down the road. The larger the number the bigger the diameter of thread. So depends on how much color you want showing, maybe 137 (I think) If you have no idea whatsoever, I can send you a few sizes to see what is what and you decide what you like. It is not waxed to just get some beeswax and run it through a few times and then you should be in the same place you were with your black thread before. Oh yeah, gloves or leather fingers, worth the trouble and cost! I have never done what you are up to, but from what you have described this should work. (Many thread companies out there. I like Wawak, but not sure about color selection)

Hey MB~ Did you get this figured out? You have a nice post from Char. Did you get your directions? It is a basic t-bottom tote (see on the bottom pattern there, if you look at half of it there is a T shape) If you are still having trouble maybe we could help you, but looks like those pattern pieces are a great start. Kat

Good day sir! You might try WAWAK.com for the zippers. Those folks are great and zipper prices you won't believe, well I couldn't. I think they also have some buckles and webbing, but not much. For those items you might try owfinc.com that is Outdoor Wilderness Fabrics. Sometimes it is easier just to call them, but they have worked on the site so it may be easier to navigate. They are some really nice folks also.