blue duck

You might try wawak.com and or the buckleguy.com I got some of those from one or maybe both of them.

Thank you kindly sir. I have been using a block of wood (which I now know has a name) and use an adjustable heat gun. Maybe I am not getting it hot enough or maybe too cool? Now that I say it out loud, what is the correct temp? I have tried using a dowel to smooth it around the edges, just heat, my fingers protected with a hot pad. I keep getting a wavy edge at the corner. Looked at the vacuum table also. You are right now I have lots of questions. Do you know if some of these materials are like kydex? Thanks again.

I have been using kydex for an inner-case on several projects that need protection. I have watched videos trying to get it right, but for the life of me I can not seem to get a decent 90* corner. Say for a box. I am hoping it is something simple that some of you might be able to explain. Or complicated for that matter. Any help would be greatly appreciated, what hair I haven't pulled out is going white. rg

Nice Job! Oil cloth and leather is just classic. It's all in the details and you have attended to those nicely.

Thank you for taking the time to spell this out. It does make a lot of difference and is a great stitch to have in the line-up. Nice Job! rg

I don't know if this would work or not. Ohio Travel Bag has clips with a ring on them that were made for the top of say a clutch for a removable chain/strap. You could always drill the second hole, and some of them actually have almost saw-tooth ends to clamp into the leather. I have bought light wt. ones for clutches, and looks like it could be applied like you want. I just don't know how heavy duty they come. I would call them and ask, they have gone and checked on things for me in the past. Good luck.

Nice explanation Karina. Spot on!

Top Shelf! I was quite interested in the what would you do different answer. What happened with the gussets, if you don't mind sharing? Can see where the lining is a pain, but that puts the whole case into a different class than an unlined one. Just my 2 cents.

Thank you so much Tom. Who knows if or when I will get this made, but 1/2 of this outfit has a pattern problem. At least for the time being it is a pdf and doesn't take up room. Know she will love it. rg

Actually Doug is on to something. Think these are the actual colors of leather these folks used, the black may be a stabilizer that you would normally have hidden. It is probably a build up clear coat product, what brand I have no idea, may be something proprietary even. Like the edge products the handbag companies use on/in some of their designs. As for the top layer, it looks like it was run through a skiver and turned under, then sewn on after it was finished. But like he says, pictures are hard to figure out.

Hey Chris, These folks have always been great to work with. Wilderness Fabrics http://owfinc.com/

Joe I went back and looked. I think I would make a "lining" for the leather extension on the zipper and add it to the lining. Could be leather or canvas. Then when you sew the zipper in, that would be joining the outside and inside. You would probably want to glue or tape the zipper on both sides so it stays straight. Then go back and top- stitch against the top edge. That would hold your lining against the side as well as finish the sides where the zipper doesn't attach to the bag. Now that sounds perfectly logical in my own little world, but it may be really confusing. If so I will try again with a little more detail. But then again it may be more trouble than its worth for what you are trying to accomplish. Cheers!

This is going to make someone a great tote. I am not sure what you have for a machine, but if you are going to do many, you might try finding a cording foot, it will let the cord ride close to the stitching line. Also when lining a bag, you might try making the lining complete, the bag complete, then drop the lining in and sew around the top edge. That will hide all of your seams on both the bag and the lining. But you have a great start!

Thank you kindly sir. That would be really simple if that is all it was. I'll give it a go.

Thank you so much Andrew, there is a lot of information here. Never even considered a band knife splitter. What I would like to be able to do is take 4-5 oz and get it down to 2-2.5 oz for pockets and then even thinner for interior parts on wallets. So 5 1/2" limit would probably be ok. I am just always catching it for buying something to get by and then having to go buy it again to do it the right way. But think we have all been there. Also sent a pm. Thanks, Rick

Tom, J., and billybopp; Thank you all for you help and information. Might get computer literate yet.

I know this has been brought up many times, I have searched through most of them, however I am begging for some help to find what you would consider a good investment for a splitter. Your opinion is much less biased than some of those salesmen out there, I am sure. I have looked at the cheapest I could find to some that are way out of the question. I would like to get one that will not need to be replaced because of quality and can use for a long time, yet I can not justify the high dollars for an electric one either. I am sure you folks have something that will produce a quality split and not break the bank? If this helps the leather we use most of is a mixed tan, both veg and chrome tanned, (we use a lot of Horween leather) and we are producing bags, cases and wallets for the most part. So it needs to be able to split something wider than just a belt at times. Is there any other information that can help you help us? Thank you for your time and trouble! rg

Well for what it's worth, it looks great. So how many new words did the dog learn while you did this?

Say Tom, if you don't mind, what do you use to get this pattern into a computer read format? Does that make any sense? I can build one with a pencil, awl and ruler, but that doesn't help anyone else. You obviously have a way with computers, what would you suggest for ease of use, since I am not all that computer literate, and since I am not trying to make anything off of it, something on the cheap.

Tom that was a really nice thing for you to do. Some folks can make a pattern in their head, but then there are the rest of us. Nice job!

Lots of wallets on the market these days have a mesh ID window covering. I have searched high and low, but am mostly finding either acetate, clear films, or the likes. Anyone found a source for it?

Sharp tote Joe! Bet Gramma ends up selling a few for you. Just a suggestion, you might try skiving the seam allowance so it will lay a bit flatter.

You are right the front is sewn to the gusset with the right sides together and include piping. The back is sewn to the gusset wrong sides together and wrapped with trim. As far as the gusset goes, They may just be giving you options when cutting your leather. As Double C said it really doesn't matter, as long as you get the total length you need. Without seeing the actual pattern pieces you have it is hard to tell. However, if I were making the pattern, the back and flap would be one piece, the back pocket, and the front. Looking at it it appears that this is how it is built as well. Would that make sense of the pieces you have? It may be since they are or should be th same width and contours, just different heights, the part you have for a flap is that actually the back pocket? If they are actually marked front/back, flap, back pocket. Yes you would attach the flap to the back, just make sure you add seam allowance. It just doesn't look like it was made that way though. Again it may just be an option for leather cutting. If you have the leather available and it is two separate pieces of pattern you could just put them together and cut it out so you don't have the seam, pretty much what you said. If I had this pattern to put together without instructions I would do it like this: Turn back pocket top and stitch down. Add hardware/straps to front flap. Glue/tack back pocket to back/flap piece. Set aside. Sew gusset pieces together. Sew strap and add hardware to gusset. Set aside. Create inside pocket. Create piping. Turn and sew top of front pockets. Sew hardware to pockets. Sew pockets to front - center seam and glue/tack pockets to front on edges. Attach front to gusset, including piping. Glue/tack inside pocket to top of front. Turn inside out. Sew trim around top of both gussets and front. Tack/Glue back/flap piece to gusset, flesh sides together. Sew with trim around flap, gussets, back. Make and Attach strap. If I confused you more than helped, tell me where I derailed and I will try and fix it.

You should ask etsy about thier comment policy. Some sites (not ebay for sure) are willing to stand by you. Sounds like they might also. If you get bad feedback for unreasonable reasons, they will/can delete it or do something to protect you from this badwill (how many mistakes in English does that sentence have?). Yes, there are jerks and you found one right off. Just don't let them sour you. Enjoy what you do because when you start stressing about things like this, it then becomes a dreadful job. You don't really want one of those now do you?

You can line it so that it will hang loose or like the others said to glue it. Either way though, it does need to be done as part of the assembly. I would suggest maybe a combination of both. Turn the lining edges and attach it along with the zipper. If it is glued to what will become the top, that should make it lay in the case nicely, without having to worry about glue soaking through (depends on lining & glue) on the sides and bottom where it will be seen. Make sense or just confusing?