blue duck

For what it is worth I find Barge contact cement to be the best. Pretty sure it was originally for building shoes. Once leather with leather is bonded, it is stuck. You will tear the leather many cases before breaking the glue bond. That said I don't know about your specific case. If you do choose to try it, I think the toluene free barge is not as tough as the regular. Also make sure you use good ventilation. Finally, it sounds like you are applying it to the finished side, so if you rough up the area where you are attaching the patch, you will get better adherence to the leather.

Got a sweetheart? Christmas is coming faster than I want to think, you could make a nice bag. Small but still a t-bottom construction like a tote. Drop collar, zip top. inside and outside pockets for phone, keys, tablet, etc.. But that is just an idea. Think it would be a great hit.

Mr. Gary~ I realize I am late to the party here, but would like to add, if I may.Reading through this entire thread, there are a couple of things that came to mind. They seem to have been addressed, but will reiterate, for what it is worth. When I first started with leather in the late 70's, there was not much to choose from. Certainly no way to try and find options in the dinky town I was in. So through the years have tried countless threads. I use Ritza at this point in making. Like the strength, wax, etc. as do many others. However, I never really cared for the flat design of it. I have a time trying to keep it from twisting. So thought a 'rounder' type thread would be nice, if possible. (what do I know about making thread?) Reading the review from Mr. Richard, it appears you may have addressed this. As for the size,, I usually use .8 or 1.0, but would like the option for .6 on small items. Maybe, if it all works, down the road you could convince them to add a bit smaller one to the lineup. For the next step in your plan, the sewing machine thread, I do use #69, but only for fabric linings when requested. Actual leather is #90 or #138. I hand stitch the thick stuff. And as mentioned, the machine requires a left twist thread. I think most industrial machines have a lube pot, or other lube system, mine does not, don't know if or how that would figure into the thread making. I don't use a stitching groove, so the thread sits on top of the leather. After hammering down, it doesn't sit proud, but it isn't in the protected groove either. So a thread that can take a bit of abrasion perhaps. I imagine somewhere along the line, that is one of the tests you will run. The number of colors you are considering is pretty impressive. Sounds like you are coming along nicely with your project. Look forward to giving it a try. Wish you the best of luck.

Thank you Richard. I have done some testing but could not come close. Tried to put EVOO on in puddles before and on wet dye, but no luck. I didn't try doing it a day later, but I certainly will. Did you end up with something similar to what the holster looked like? (Just an aside; I tried your link for online to see if there might be a product done that way. It took me to a .net site that doesn't exsist. I changed the .net to .com and your site came up. Don't know how it all works, but thought you might like to know.)

Do you think this leather was dyed, or purchased like this? He calls it 'pooled oil', have looked for it online with no luck. Was thinking could streak on dark dye and suntan the light. Maybe? I don't know. I am not sure where the pooled oil comes in. Maybe a very thick streaky coat of oil as a resist? Any ideas are greatly appreciated.

The price seems reasonable for around here anyway. Think you could get your money back out of it, if you decide to get rid of it later. That said what do you want the machine to do for you? If you are wanting it only to sew leather, this may not be what you want/need.

It usually comes down to price. Do you know that yet? Something I never considered, but do you have the vehicle capable of picking it up? It is heavy and bulky sitting like that.

What an amazing resto job! Can't even begin to imagine the number of hours you have into that project. I hope you enjoy every stitch you make on it. kat

Very Nice! She should have that to carry for many years to come.

This may be what others were saying, and just adds to your idea, but what if you added a small leather tab on each corner and then add a tab on the liner in the same spot. Then connect the two tabs by stitching or riveting them together. Would that work?

Looking at what you are trying to accomplish, I don't see a better option than sew lining and sew outside separate. As for it not being attached, the lining is attached at the zipper isn't it? That should be more than enough to keep it in place. Especially once you have something inside to hold it down. If you were to look at even high end lined bags you will see that linings like you have are usually only attached at the top either at a zipper like you or by the top, depending on the style of bag. All that said, you have done a great job with this bag. On future projects you may want to consider your sewing sequence before even cutting out your materials. This one worked out well, but a more complicated project will need to have more definitive steps. Also making a prototype out of cheap materials will help you find any flaws in both design and the sewing sequence. Really nice work!

Those odd stitches always seem to stick out more right on the corners. You might try using an awl and using a round hole for your turns. The next tip would be to mark from each corner towards the center, when you are close take two or three stiches and make them each just a bit shorter or a bit longer to make up your difference. That won't leave any one stich with all of the extra space and it won't end up on a corner. That made sense in my head, but not sure if it translates to a helpful suggestion.

Well for starters, yes it is certainly usable. The rigidity may be from the original tan/cut of leather. You don't appear to have all the same parts of the hide. Some may be a good cut where others may be from the belly. Do you have a splitter at your disposal? I know this sounds wishy/washy but it all depends on your project, how you want the leather to behave. Leather has a very long shelf life, to be sure. So you just need to find the right project for the right piece.

Very nice. That is great work for a first project. Can we peek inside?

This is from the Buckleguy.com but see that koreric found one for you as well.

Actually Sam, the ounce measurement does not (well maybe it used to) apply to the actual weight. It is a measurement of the leather thickness. The folks at Tandy really should be able to answer your questions, but that is another thread. Most online leather stores will have this information for you, maybe in FAQs or help. You will find some use more accurate measuring and some will round. Here is an example: 1 ounce = 1/64" = .016" = .41mm 3 ounce = 3/64" = .047" = 1.19mm 12 ounce = 3/16" = .188" = 4.78mm Hope that helps.

Here are two links that I hope will get you there. If for whatever reason they don't, just go to vimeo and youtube and enter Armitage Leather. I seem to recall he was also trying to have a pay channel on youtube, but don't know if it ever worked out. It was going to be the same as those on vimeo, I had better luck there anyway. https://www.youtube.com/user/Nordicbadger

My prayers for you on continued improvement and to your family for their continued support. Your leather projects are quite fun and entertaining. I like your wine racks in particular. Many options out there for you to make a bit of income I should think. All the best. God Bless you.

Been playing on the lake so missed you. But yes, this is considered a "T Bottom" Tote as a basis design and then you can add your zipper to the pattern, as well as the other hardware options they are showing. You must have an understanding of tote patterns then?

Have been subscribed for a few months now. Mr. Nigel has been so generous with his free videos on youtube, but it is a very small fee it takes to see these instructional videos he has available now. Well worth the price of a cup of coffee for month of viewing. Those thinking of waiting, it is obviously an option, but why would you want to wait to upgrade your skills and turn out a better product now rather than a year from now? Just askin.

I think you are right. I use 1/4" to 3/8" depending on leather, # of layers, etc. So that is 6.5 to 9.5 mm I think.

I believe Buckleguy is now carrying Italian edge paint under private label in 250ml. Think it is Fenice. More colors than I can list here.

sent pm

If I recall correctly handbag designer 101 is more of what is on trend, blog, new designers, they might even be selling by now, but other than ideas I don't think you will find much instruction. Arthur Porter's youtube videos are great for a basic start, but it may be that is what you are needing for now. I agree with 25b about the book, so wouldn't be terribly disappointed if you can't find enough time to sit in the library and use it.