GerryR

Good one, Frank!

I cut 3 coils off of a flat-wire recoil spring that I have for 1911 pistols (I'm a gunsmith, actually a pistol smith). The flat-wire spring fits inside the standard spring. I can send you a length of spring, if you would like one, and you can cut it using a Dremel with an abrasive cutoff disk. Offer to you, Doug, as well. Send me an email with your address, if you would like one. (totalautomation1 at gmail dot com)

Frankqv, I have not had that problem. Presently I have a 135 x 16 TRI (180/24) Organ needle in the machine with 207 on top and 138 in the bobbin. Thread is bonded polyester. It would be interesting to see the eyes under magnification to compare the Organ vs. Schmetz needles. Curious, I had to add an additional spring to the tensioner to get the machine to consistently pull the bottom thread (138) into the leather. Did you have any problems with tension with the 207 thread?

The feed dogs that I have contain an elongated slot. Even though the manual states that 24 is the largest needle, I have used a #25 when using 207 thread on top (138 on Bottom). (I added a supplemental spring to the thread tensioner to increase tension when using the heavier thread and sewing thicker leather.) No problems so far.

The Singer part numbers for the feed dogs on my machine (153W103) are 240674-46 and 240675-40 and the plate number is 240676. The -46 dog has teeth behind the needle hole and nothing (a step-down) in front of the hole (This is what is on my machine.). The -40 has teeth front and rear of the hole, which would give more "bite." Many people grind the teeth off, and polish the dog, to prevent marking the leather. It hasn't been an issue with me, and I have no feeding problems. I believe you can get these parts from Sharp Sewing Supplies in California (no affiliation). Hope this helps.

Thank you. The one from Ohio Travel Bag and the one from linked to Amazon look identical. I will give one a try.

What is the brand name of the glue pots referred to here? Thank you.

There is another option, using a 3 phase, ac motor, with a Variable Frequency Drive (VFD). You can use a linear potentiometer (pot) with a spring return to vary the speed. I have mine set up using a homemade foot pedal and a bicycle brake cable running to the pot. (You could adapt a TIG welder foot pedal control with the already built-in pot, if you didn't want to build your own.) I started with a 1 hp, 3 phase, 1725 rpm motor and added a 5:1 gear reducer to bring the top speed down to 345 rpm. The pot varies the speed from 0 to 345. I purchased the motor and gear reducer from Burden Surplus Center (www.surpluscenter.com) and the VFD from Automation Direct (www.automationdirect.com). It took a little work, but once setup, it works great. You could also add a switch wired to the VFD to reverse the motor direction, for a machine mounted on the opposite side of the table or requiring reverse rotation. Just another option.

Not Ron, but the power of the machine doesn't really have much to do with the tension setting, once it is set up for the particular article you are sewing. Once the tension is adjusted and you are sewing along and come to a more dense area in the leather, the tension may not be enough to pull the same size bottom thread into the leather. With the smaller bobbin thread and the bigger needle hole (sized for the top thread), the tension required is more consistent when the leather density changes; the larger hole offers less resistance when pulling up the smaller bobbin thread. On thicker leather using same size threads, a higher tension may still bury the bobbin loop, perhaps at a different depth, but on thinner leather, the higher tension may bring the bobbin thread to the top and too little tension may not bring it into the leather at all. So with thicker leather, you can crank up the tension to bury all the loops, but the thinner stuff is less forgiving to the tension adjustment. At least this has been my experience.

The fact that the bobbin holds more of the smaller thread is not really the issue, but is a small benefit. The smaller bobbin thread allows the machine to pull the thread up into the work more easily and consistently. I know that on my machine, using 207 top and bottom results in an occasional loop not being pulled into the work; not so when using 138 on the bottom. Unfortunately, the strength of the stitching is only as strong as the thinnest thread, so if you are using 277 on top and 207 on the bottom, the 207 determines the stitch strength.

Look at "pin vises." They come with collet chucks for various diameters, and you can buy just the ones for the diameter(s) you need. The body can be cut and pressed / glued into your handle. Enco, as mentioned above, carries them: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=765&PARTPG=INLMK3&PMITEM=891-5434

Am I mistaken, or does the label on the machine in the second picture say "Adler?"

I guess China is getting beat up much the same as Japan was in the '50's. But, like anything, there are different levels of quality at different prices, no matter where they are made. If they are made to a specification and meet that spec (emphasis on meeting the spec), then it doesn't matter who makes them. Problem is their labor is so much less costly than here in the states, for example, it is hard for US mfg's to compete without some "made in ____" components. In the sewing industry, I have noticed what the OP states is very true, especially in the "home" market; many machines are identical, mechanically, with a different label on them. With the programable machines, there are different capabilities based strictly on the software, same machine, different software. Embroidery machines are an example. There are a couple of manufacturers that build for most other companies and label accordingly. For the strictly mechanical machines, like portable blind stitchers for example, the machines that look the same between manufacturers, are the same. One company may offer better service and support, so you have to weigh that in the cost of the machine. Just my $.025

I would also check / increase the tension on the presser foot. If it is too low, then all the thread tension in the world isn't going to help, because the foot will be allowing the work to rise against the thread tension instead of allowing the thread to pull into the work. I found this to be true, especially on lighter-weight and supple leathers.

Very nice; I like the roller buckle, as well. If I may express my ignorance, what is "Obenaufs?"

The spoked nut is made from 1-1/2 inch diameter aluminum (6061) stock and is 2-1/2 inches long ( the distance between the jaws). The center diameter is 1 inch long by 1-1/2 inches in diameter, and the outer lengths have been turned down to 1 inch diameter (mainly for appearance), and are ¾ inch long each. One end is drilled and tapped 3/8-16 x 5/8 deep for the shoulder screw and the other end is drilled through to the other hole and tapped 5/16-18 for the carriage bolt. The shoulder screw is ½ x ½ with a head thickness of ¼ inch. This goes into the fixed jaw, which is drilled through with a ½ inch diameter hole and then counter-bored ¼ inch deep x ¾ inch diameter to accommodate the head of the shoulder screw. When installed in the jaw, the shoulder screw is tightened hard against the spoked nut and should turn freely with the nut, as the nut is turned. If it doesn’t turn freely, make the counter-bore a little deeper. The moveable jaw is drilled through with a 5/16 inch hole for the carriage bolt and counter-bored to accept the head so that it is flush, or slightly below, the surface. The carriage bolt is 1-3/4 inches long. The spokes are 2 inches long x ¼ inch diameter steel dowel pins and are pressed into the center hub of the spoked nut, 120 degrees apart. When assembling, screw the carriage bolt side all the way in first, and then install the shoulder screw. That’s about it; pretty straight forward. Pictures:

You can get single phase-to-three phase converters, reasonably priced, and they are programmable with many options. I have one running a 1 hp, 3 phase, motor on my Singer 153 from a 220VAC single phase outlet. You can get them for virtually any hp motor. Here is a link to the one I am using: http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Drives/GS1_(120_-z-_230_VAC_V-z-Hz_Control)/GS1_Drive_Units_(120_-z-_230_VAC)/GS1-21P0. It's another option and I would be happy to answer any questions you might have about setting one up. Regards, Gerry

Something else to check is the foot pressure. If it is too light, and the fabric is lifting as the needle goes up, no amount of tension on the thread is going to help. Making an oversized whole to get the thread to pull up may be a "fix," but I would check for the real problem and get it corrected. JMO.

For edge seams, I use plastic spring clamps in different sizes (like used in woodworking) spaced every 4 to 6 inches, and remove them one at a time as they get near the needle. A little more time consuming, perhaps, but they seem to work pretty well.

I made a "spoked nut" that fits between the clamp jaws that you rotate to open / close the jaws; nothing to catch on, at least on the outside.

The pillow is 3/16" charcoal closed cell sculpting foam. I glued three pieces together for the thickness I wanted I bought a couple of yards of it for another project and had enough left over for this small pillow. Here is the link on ebay where I bought it: http://www.ebay.com/itm/320819556904?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_3336wt_966 Even at my age, I am still flexible enough to "step over it" (the seat part, that is) to mount and dismount.

Well, here is my "home made" pony. I made it to set on a folding steel chair, but the front support is adjustable and can be used with chairs of various heights. The clamp can be rotated to any desired angle; I like it a little offset as shown in the picture. The clamping is accomplished by rotating the "nut" between the clamps, which draws in the moveable jaw. All criticisms are welcomed. Gerry

Interesting tool; are there modern-day versions of it available? Gerry

Any reason not to use a "dead-blow" hammer like the Nupla hammers. They would seem to be more effective than a standard mallet, are available in various weights, and are reasonably inexpensive. They are even available with interchangeable faces of varying hardnesses of plastic, copper, brass and steel. Maybe not as pretty as a maul, but I would think at least as effective. Just a thought.

Nice idea! I guess that any similar-sized trim router could be modified the same way. Did you try using stones to see if they worked, or is the sanding drum the best solution? Regards, Gerry