malchik

I agree with you Trox, partially at least Giardini makes a very good paints (in cooperation with Stahl), I like best semi-dense which allows heat treatment as well. What kind of edge paint someone uses depends of style, and how is about to be applied. I'm using Vernis 600 for most of my products, used before Fenice, gave a try to Giardini dense and semi-dense. Fenice is not even close to Giardini og Vernis (neither requires heat treatment) and later penetrates leather better/deeper. As stated, I'm doing heat treatment because of melting the paint into the leather which gives a very neat and durable edge. Just to add to Trox instructions, lightly sanded edges before application (to even the edge and remove traces of glue) promotes better adhesion. My 5 cents If you just starting, go for Giardini, you cant miss Later on, you'll find what works best for you

What to say, people gets obsessed what the big one uses (have been in this train as well) forgetting that the most important is how to use it. Thick paints are intended for use in edge machines and usually doesn't works well with electric creasers and hot edge treatment. Hermés uses a lot of machinery, also edge paint machines, so what Hermés uses it's a broad term. If you are doing edge finish by hand and your technique demands use of hot edging (i.e. edge durability) like in the case of Hermés bags, than you have to use edge paint with less viscosity enabling paint to penetrate deeper into the edge. By applying hot iron treatment, the layer of paint melts down producing strongest bond you can get (much stronger than with thick paint). Regarding how many layers you need for neat edge, I usually need 2 or 3 to make a perfect edge both with Tandy Professional Edge (Fenice), Giardini semi dense matt and Vernis 600. The trick is to make edge layers as even as possible, lightly sanded, before you apply the paint. Those three mentioned paints are pretty similar in the final result and in terms of durability. Giardini (cooperates with Stahl) and Fenice are by my opinion acrylics, but for vernis 600 I'm not sure, it doesn't appears as an acrylic. Real difference is temperature of hot iron required to melt down the paint (V600 requires higher)... So, morale of the story is don't get blinded what Big Names uses, find what works for you best

Hi Yin, sorry for late answer. The edge ink I'm using is Fenice one called section lacquer bought at Tandy, but it seems they don't sell it anymore. I got a tip that Giardini one is good as well and is not so pricy either. you can find more about on http://www.leatheredgepaint.com/portfolio/dense-leather-edge-paint/ and even order cheep trial pack to test if is it working for you. Both of edge paints can be treated thermally (hot-glazing), but please note you hot-glaze just a first layer.

For tips you can check http://www.ebay.com/itm/301284016005 I tested them, works fine with soldering iron accepting 4mm tips. I'm using Tandy (Fenice) professional edge paint (section lacquer) ant I'm happy with results (see some examples on https://www.facebook.com/kami.leathercraft).

Thanks, I bought factory dyed so I can't tell. The color is bright orange and I know, I know, pictures should be better, those was taken at the midnight when I was finished with everything. Morning after I delivered the bag.

Painted, hot-glazed and polished with wax

Thanks 9tpi (it's actually Joseph Dickson 7tpi slimline ) I'm still learning

Thanks Yes actually it is, fits nice to purpose The bag is lined with vegtan goat skin, outside is milled cow hide. Here's some pictures from inside.

Satchel for MacPro 13'. See my videos: Making a wallet: Making a watch strap:

Thanks Mikesc, shall we use private messages to post our needs or? Personally I'm interested for both...

Since I started with leatherworking I was confused by measurement of the linen thread. Even though I understand rationale behind certain measurement systems I found rather difficult to make comparisons between different measurements. I'm using mostly Fil Au Chinois but sometimes (when I don't have a time to wait for shipment from France) I'm using Campbells, Barbour, etc. Sometimes I just need thinner thread than Fil Au Chinois produces or the thickness I need for job that comes sporadically (French thin threads are blody expensive!) So, I made some table that compares two measurement systems with thickness in mm (aprox.) in parentheses. Babour | Fil au Chinois ------------------------------ 12/3 (1) 18/5 (0.9) 332 (0.77) 18/3 (0.6) 432 (0.63) 532 (0.57) 20/3 (0.52) 632 (0.51) 30/3 (0.45) 832 (0.43) 35/3 (0.4) 40/3 (0.37) 60/3 (0.30) If you have some other thoughts/info, please complete the list.

Thank you Cynthia. I'm still learning and my teachers are YouTube, "The Leatherworking Handbook" from Valerie Michael and goddam lot of trial and error. Occasional visit to Hermés and Luis Vuitton shops helps keeping motivation high Wish I have someone, if not for tutoring, at least to ask from time to time for help (like "what I'm doing wrong with my saddle stitch).

Hi, you can check what I'm using http://www.fenice.com/index.php/en/63-slide-immagini-what-s-new-inglese/630-section-lacquers, Tandy used to sell those under name Professional edge paint (not anymore ?)

I'm not using chrome tanned leather often, but I didn't have problems creasing those. Creasers are traditionally heated on alcohol stove/burner like this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALCOHOL-LAMP-BURNER-WITH-WICK-SPIRIT-LAMP-/200531827611?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2eb0a0db9b

Like those from Joseph Dixon http://www.josephdixon.co.uk/products/bevel_Crease.html or http://www.josephdixon.co.uk/products/Double_Crease.html

I'm not using those tips for creasing since originally they are too sharp and cuts leather like cheese even on low temp. I didn't experimented a lot with those as creasers since I have traditional creasers I heat by spirit burner. Surely, for my purpose (I'm doing small stuff) this works perfectly well.

My soldering iron is 16w (I believe) and I don't use any heat control (even I can use dimmer for such purpose). You have right, it is not precise at all, but you can compensate to certain degree with technique. I took me a while before I use to work with Chinese brass tips from ebay and soldering iron and I'm using it solely for edging. French stuff is, of course, much better but quite expensive if leatherworking is not your daily job After all Trox, I see you're living in Oslo (as I do) so you can drop and I can demonstrate my technique both on veg and chrome tanned leather (even combination of those two). It works well both with high end and cheap leather as well. The result is (booth look and feel) as on Hermés stuff

I said I tried wit some acrylics (not Angelus) even I tried to mix acrylics with wax and other resins. Didn't work (maybe it was too hot) whe wax part went to smoke, acryl just peeled. It is logical after all, acrylics doesn't melt, polyurethane does (and it's part of Fenice paint). Main purpose of heat glazing (as far as I understand) is to melt edge paint s it can penetrate deeply into the leather. Angelus, despite it famous stickiness, doesn't penetrate leather at all...

If is it not hot enough for soldering it doesn't mean is not hot enough for hot glazing since required temp. is lower than to melt a tin (about 230C - 450F). But, if is it to low, dimmer doesn't help since it is used to lower temp. About edge paint, I'm using Fenice (section lacquer) made - Tandy used to sell it as Professional Edge paint. Works fine for my use. I doubt regarding Angelus since it's acrylic paint. I did some tests with some other acrylic paints without any success - at least in combination with hot glazing (just peels off the paint).

Thanks I found those at local (Norwegian) leather-goods store. Maybe http://www.buckleguy.com/ can source some, at least they have a lot of hardware for bags an purses.

Video showing how I did edges before (I simplified the process recently) . Unless you want to se a whole video, jump 27:13 to see the process.

Video showing how I did edges before (I simplified the process recently) . Unless you want to se a whole video, jump 27:13 to see the process.

Thanks Monica, I checked your work on Etsy as well, beautiful

Thank you Conrad Well, what I'm referring to is professional edge ink (it seems Tandy sell no longer - only edge dressing now) which comes from Fenice, Italy. Yes, Tandy says let it dry, but on Fenice web-side states the heat can be applied for increased adherence. The main reason I'm applying the heat after first pass is to smooth fibers (what's left after un-smooth after burnishing and sanding) and making it ready for flawless polishing after pass 2. The effect of this procedure is finished cut edge binding a'la Hermés There's nothing wrong with traditional burnishing/dying/waxing the edges, but what I do gives me more durable edge with not so much more effort than traditional approach. On bags like one on pictures it is essential having as durable edges as possible. After all I'm giving lifetime guaranty

Edges are both burnished and applied edge coat afterwards. Burnished with saddlers soap, sanded lightly, and two coat of Fenice (Tandy) edge ink (section lacquer) with heat polishing between coats. Sedgwick bridle, it's an art of the leather, beautiful to work with (still didn't found how to bend it without damaging top coat). It comes with white stuff both on top and bottom - works like tallow not wax. When you remove it (with a help of elbow grease ) beautiful bridle finish pops up! Find difficult to cut precisely it with tallow on a top, but was afraid to place ruler on unprotected leather. Pretty stiff, had to sharpen knife couple of times before I was finished cutting. With other words, gives a lot - requires a lot Thank you Joe, personally I'm not satisfied with all details, but customer was overjoyed Not bad for beginner