Ski

I love this! Being a bushcrafter I love birch bark and never of thought of putting bark and leather together. You got my mind racing now with all sorts of idea's! Did you treat the bark with anything? For us European's, how thick is your leather in mm rather than weight ?

Is satin sheen same as resolene? I know resolene is the best to protect against water. Although it should be noted you can never make leather 100% waterproof, just more water resilient (which fades over time).

Hi Chaps, Thanks to all your great input above, my embossing has improved dramatically in conjunction with proper casing and antiquing stain. My next hurdle is really the leather stretching. I cut a perfect circle out, emboss it with a pattern, now its egg shaped. Any tips?

I doubt it. Every blade has a different grind. Some have convex, some have scandi grind etc.. Each one has a different method of sharpening. Rather than giving up, keep practicing and what will make a world of difference is try and get someone to show you the error of your ways and point you in the right direction. If you think that is hard to sharpen try honing a cut throat straight razor

If the holes seem too big, try a thicker thread? Although your picture lacks detail, stitching looks good to me

Looking good!

If your concerned the other teeth might touch the stone/sandpaper, cover them in isolation tape or something similar. You don't want it razor sharp, but sharp enough to grip as you say

As with most business' you will lose money in the first (whatever) period. If you make a piece of armour and the leather cost you $50 but you had to buy a maul and some stitching groovers that also cost you $50, do not see it as you need to earn $100 back from that armour to break even, as you can reuse the tools. You will hit profit once you collect all tools, once you start pumping out truly good work and once you gain reputation. This may take 6 months, may take 6 years. Don't rush it and only make what you can sell. I for example, refrain from buying new tools (that I truly need) until I sell some leather to cover the cost. and I only make to order, so the sale is guaranteed, price pre-agreed. If orders are not coming in, start making simple stuff like mobile / cell wallets, for birthdays, free give aways etc.. materials cost is minimal and your reputation (and skill) will increase with each item.

a little DC diamond stone, or fine sandpaper, or fine file would do it. Put some sort of paint all over the iron, so you can see where the stone/sandpaper/file make contact, so you know your just hitting the tip (or whatever you see fit) Not sure where in the UK you are but if close to me feel free to pop in and I can do it for you.

Yes these are the exact tips I need. I will be making my own awl and needle, thank you for the tips and I welcome more

Hi All, Soon I will attempt to stitch with a curved awl and curved needle. Its the only way forward for the finish I want (to join two pieces of leather, to appear flat). Ive got a Al Stohlman book which describes what to do, but was wondering if anyone had any other useful information, if from experience or a link to a video to help me. Not much information out there. I will be attempting a rounded cigar holder, the edges must be rounded, I assume the only way forward is to carve a mould from wood then stich using a curved awl / needle. Any tips or help most welcomed

Double post, please delete

I would rescue this piece rather than make a new one. Love items with history to them. As said any oil. In wood work I avoid olive oil as it may smell rancid after a while, but hazelnut oil is good, unsure if its the same with leather. Neatsfoot Oil might be best bet if you can get it.

Makes perfect sense Bob, thank you.

Ohh and one last thing. Which one would you chaps recommend? Fiebing Antique Dye Fiebing Antique Finish Fiebing Antique Leather Stain (taken from http://www.abbeyengland.com/Store/tabid/77/txtSearch/antiqu/Language/en-GB/Default.aspx)

Thank you for pointing me towards Bobby's article, I now see the error of my ways and will experiment with this

Is the antique applied only to the impressed parts with a fine brush or all over ?

Hi Chaps, Whenever I'm embossing a makers logo, or a pattern etc.. the indent is never darker than the skin of the leather. When I see examples of patterns the pattern is always two toned, with the indented part much darker. What am I doing wrong? not hitting hard enough? too much water on the leather? or wrong treatment? I usually case the leather by dunking under water and let it sit for 15 minutes. After I imprint my logo or pattern, let it dry and dye it with Fiebings oil dye dark brown and then treat with carnauba crème. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thank you for the warm welcome.

oo wow I only live 15 minutes from these guys, didn't know they existed until I found this thread (no pun intended). Just spoke to them on the phone and I am going to visit the store and see the threads to get an idea of the thickness' etc..

Resoline? Although I hate the stuff. I also have some Chelsea leather food which is quite good.

Hello all! Im Ski from UK - Manchester. I started leatherworking about 2 years ago and started my homebrand AV Leather (the logo represents AV inside a camp fire). It all started when I couldn't buy a real belt anywhere so it can double up as a strop for my knives while out wild camping, then quickly moved onto making sheaths for knives and axes and now messing around with phone cases and wallets etc.. For a while I've been searching for a community to get involved with, as I do not know anyone I can ask for tips about this fine craft, and finally I have found YOU!! I don't saddle stitch yet, as I work with 4mm leather, and my awls don't like 9mm leather. But, Ive just made a stitching horse and I'm on the look out for a proper Pricking Iron (on a 45 degree angle) so I should be doing it the right way very soon. Love all the examples and guides on this forum and have much respect for you lot and the work you turn out. Hoping one day I will get there too. Some examples below.