brmax

Yes that does help, Thank you for your support. I will get a chance later today and with this instruction have a better understanding. good day there

Hey all of you, I could use your help to better understand the " Opener timing and Adjustment". I will take the here's your sign when needed, though its tough moving ahead is better. What I have here is a Juki dnu 1541S. This I picked up used and having a semi permanent binder and raised throat plate that I have removed and reinstalled an oem plate and feed dog for operations needed now. In checking timing and bar specs they are not in standard, slightly out so I have since worked through these, its my new to me side loader so some things to learn. Working with the Engineers Manual I'm stuck with this step (5) Adjusting the Opener: The steps A, B are a bit clear yet the C is just not, or I'm not pickin up what there putting down. Can ya help out? Thanks I am also interested in some other clearance spec if any with the "tab" on the position finger that sets in the slot and positions the basket, say parallel with shaft. This information I am curious for because sanding the hook marks from previous looks to be slip outs has me interested, and doing a few searches promotes this info. also. At this time I have about .040" in hook tab clearance and .035" hook to positioner and on the other side of positioner to feed dog side having .023", now removing this positioner to check and to press old bends out of the shim piece I noticed it sits in a recessed casting slot and its not a made to adjust type part or slot. Thanks for your ideas, tips and any "signs" ; ) Good Day

Just for good times Now them temporary tables you have now are totally unacceptable ! That removes all motivating, inspiring and abilities to group discuss projects, I know that because I seen all the electronic and software related companies have them games and recreations as the building blocks of their future business : ) Good day there and keep us posted, as every shop is a bit different and have parts we all want to implement

Thanks Eric, Its always an interesting read with your findings. Striking oil in your next segments! Im all eyes n ears as slow machine operations in the norm here. Appreciate the tips and Good day there

Good morning! No matter this is not the time to attempt a 1.5" plunge cut out. imho Edit: preferably 1/4" cut is more than enough in each step, the consistent down pressure and control of the router is practiced through time. Go for it on some other material a little, " A key is only going one way in the wood grain" practice you will see. From a manufacturing point i believe plunge cuts are more easily performed In particle, and mdf. but remembering a lot of process are machine controlled routers. Tip:The bearing is for following the pattern without burning the wood from 20,000rpm bits as a bushing guide does. Measuring from the circle edge of router base that rides against a temp guide to the bit is practiced, as some bases are not same on both sides. Good day there, & getter done

Plus 1 on the tall template if using the bearing guide, as doing the corners and hinge areas aren't as deep and needing the tall template height. I have used a straight edge, say a 1x whatever and run against it and by putting some sort of stop for the corner, so you could return to do them at the angle for the lower depth. In any case the first is going thru the formica and would need to be 1/8 deep and following with small increases. clamps and stop block are your friend. Go for it

If as you said your moving when summers over in May to Toronto then there might be some download manuals on the net to help reference a bit. There is always great responses on the site here but this fast? and the top dogs? nice! Is the same size thread used now as in the setup and run/off when you picked up or got the machine. Good Day there

You made it, thanks Eric I should have started a new topic. Not a big deal i understand and will post differently next time. Glad you enjoy your trade, the help here you offer is always appreciated. sharp as a tac there, have a good day

Skip it i figured it out, its not rocket science.

Scott im glad you ask i have now an older singer double 212 and have read about your situation, so Im definitly following this. I would like to ask as im new to this game, is the 135 thread the ticket for tarp canvas out door projects. And what needle is working for ya 135x17 system here but tip and eyelet i havent a clue. good luck and just be listening here Thanks

If i can bring this up without changing focus for a moment, i have a simular 212G double needle but not a walker, i wish. But its new to me and totaly a new adventure, The question is hook timing sometimes involves moving the gear below along with the saddle. I see in my manual and it looks to be Singer, the gap spec of .008 between saddle face and gear. Is this critical and how ? also if it is changed for a quieter operation is that cool. Its ran on motor today but not sewed, I purchased it at auction and going through it as a "starting point" I re motored it with a servo. Im at this point and any help from you all would be great. thanks and sorry for the interuption

Eric thanks for the glimpse in the factory setups, A very good eye opener for me and Just thanks for your help. uh more pics Please ! beings im last for the moment here and semi retired/repurposing myself, I know your busy. Im starting the new to me venture of a 212G140 and this forum and its group has shared many valueble tips. Have a Good Day