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It sounds like your picking it up perfect, there is hardly any clearance in that needle to hook spec so that sounds normal. If your notch/scarf of the needle is at center of the hook point as it sounds your on track. So if removing needle to see the very small number on the needle for clarifications get a good magnifier. One of the dealers like Bob above can supply replacement needles for leather or fabric work, in a size you can use now with out a big change. So enjoy a while, and in the meantime you can use several thread sizes but it may be good to initially select one that will work for the majority of your items and your happy with the look, also searching around here can be a great opportunity I found but could require some popcorn. Good day there Floyd

Something that further got my attention here is the fact that the 545 bobbin case cap, In my opinion is very close looking to the cap in my 1341 Juki. This interest is for replacement options in several reasons but anyway I had measured the thread slot on a factory issued cap and the figure is .018"max on mine going under the spring. After thread exits spring area the small notch on top has a clearance of .035 on this same cap, though this is just a guide notch. All this measure is way out there but as I seen the options for the different hooks available to some pfaff models having this style cap well this got my interest as all machine stuff. Good luck with all your adjustments Jeff and thanks for postin Floyd

Jeff its possible the series H3 and the H4 have a bit different specifications though I would think thread of 138 can be used with the possibility of 207 on top just have to give it a shot. I understand some other Pfaff's like the 442, 1442 had available std, med, and heavy hook assembly options. With the 545 the H4 is using the 190 system needle and the H3 using the 134 system I believe it is. I'm curious if when locking the stitch is this at the start or finish or anytime the reverse lever is fully pressed. some others that are more familiar will chime in Good day there Floyd

Thank you all very much! with that information I'm seeing the 341L as using what looks to be one of the Nakajima styles and so these are some great leads and really appreciate the help. I had heard some designs were purchase by juki but didn't have any clue on the hooks or case types they used. Now! were cooking with the big gas flame Thank you both for your support Floyd

I could use some help, and its appreciated today as you all are busy working on some projects I know. What I am trying to find is a generic bobbin "cap" as the manual calls it. If there is one made I would like to have an extra or two, I tried using bobbin case and also cap in the searches with the juki number 21229307 with only the factory option in my findings. Sometimes juki factory numbers come up for the 341 and with generics listed but I'm not positive if it will work in a 1341 as the hooks are different looking and in their factory hook numbers. So can anyone throw a rope this way, with a koban, towa, nitaka or whatever interchange if available. If at this time oem is all there is, that's the route I will take just checkin in with the group here and Hey thanks! for any leads Floyd

A few other choices in the north can be found at Reliable Corp. they are in Canada also, I don't think any machines are completely manufactured there or here in the U.S. but they do offer a style representing the 341 juki. Sounds like your on the way so enjoy Good day Floyd

Grit, I'm finding this interesting. As I'm not a member of face or insta at the present, Ive only at this time thought about it more. The photos are always a key, so thanks and now I will go back to the top where I took a break. Floyd

I am getting a tip here that I'm sure has been mentioned before, but didn't ring as clear to myself till now the issue was real recent. I don't mean to jack the "thread" but for my hard head it turns the light on, anyway I have some 15series heads and two have say the hd thread guide setups, this shown in the engineers manual (these I thought to be the ticket to have at first). Oddly some thread situations have got hung up on the take up knob and produced some very tight stitches and more than a few times, Not as I recall on the hd guide style, but I'm trying to think back and for sure poly and am considering both poly and solarfix thread to have done this. Thanks Wiz I'm going to adjust the threading through the post on the 4 heads looking at them earlier they are all different and believe your onto something I am going to use, with organization. All of you are making better light of situations to get work done around here, appreciate it. Floyd

If you start on a scrap piece and turn the wheel by hand, it maybe possible to see or feel the bind that's breaking the thread easier. Or take a look with the machine head tilted back, more light for myself so I use this method, by the way does this 1541 have a letter at the end. Good day Floyd

I might take a look at the bobbin case height in relation to its clearance in the needle plate, if at minimum I wonder. Also the thread size is this easily changed smaller for a test for added above check. a question, even if this is random is this repeated in the same 2' run, jus curious here. Good day Floyd

Ok my bad I'm starting to get on the page. I found in the past if not using a photo storage site and linking to the photo itself, a size limit is about 80 to 128kb max to upload to a forum site for their storage hth I wouldn't put any flame on it as both parts expand and contract the same. Its just to easy to mushroom the shaft end while its super hot anyway. In Constabulary's photo you can see a couple holes in the pulley, generally these are threaded and for the removal using certain types of pullers, and a typical laymen name is steering wheel puller and very possible that local autozone or other auto parts sellers have for loan free possibly, though with deposit they do here. As the photo above a HD puller and in tough conditions the ticket to use. In a lighter situation one would need to determine the thread size for them holes in the pulley wheel and determine bolt length as the standard steering wheel puller has maybe a 4" bolt and not a high grade as my preference, but likely will need longer and grade 8 type from store or ace hardware. Good day Floyd

Not sure your meaning of; wheel turns forward and back over the shaft now?. I am assuming the wheel moves on the shaft yet shaft has a flared end and preventing the wheel from "sliding off" the end. Possibly with photo here and using a straight edge there confirming and seeing if the shaft needs work prior to wheel removal. I agree with the puller above photo and also like to mention when possible using a flat bearing puller behind the wheel for support. good luck this weekend, and post up any new ideas we can use later. Floyd

Dale your on a roll! I am thinking in future winter project if mine I might implement on the bottom at the support, a table leg folding / lock mechanism. So storage of the top can be quick to move about, also its cool the room under top for a cart to push finished product in then roll out. Keep it up, and thanks for posting Floyd

Many machine suppliers have the added option of a servo motor, also "some" will be able to install a speed reducer option if needed. Though the speed could be even slower not likely any need of the added power on the wallets. The servo is a good choice "with" a small pulley like 50mm. The local business with your pickup and little if any shipping is going to be your great benefit. Your machine could easily be set properly for the max thread size you can use, initially and followed up with your 2nd visit for a sew off with materials as expected to use. Not to be harsh on the biz or your friend so keeping focused on the usage and financial undertaking with this makes it smooth. Older machines taken care of are always on the minds of people here on the site, one is like having one pair of shoes and fine but boots and basketball suc Keep us posted Floyd

What type or tanning was the leather. Curious regular veg tan ?

I believe the Cowboy model is standard with the safety clutch, and the Highlead has a few models their 1st 0618 is possibly with out and same as the base juki 1541 is and in both these models if they have a "S" or SC ending their model number they do have the safety clutch built in as the Cowboy model does. One of the dealers surely can help me out with this as I have a few brand models with and without safety clutch and would choose to have the option. Don't mean to put confusion here but this option can be a big dollar value and worth it imho. good day Floyd

Well said Darren, I find in these past years since 90 the information we have on pc in front of us if wanted can be a great boost with projects. Myself an old professional in the mechanic repair field needs to use the auxiliary gears many times, meaning the option of another professionals training and advantages. Again I kindly say to the young ones ( experience matters ) Good day Floyd

Good idea, I had that in mind for the future. With that tip I got this question, do you see any side more handy or just use more than the other. Also great page link Wiz, I look at the main page a bit but never looked much farther? stuck on the dream choice machine I guess hehe Thanks Floyd

Sorry, I thought the very same and wondered a bit. What I thought was using a zipper foot setup, this would have one side or the other for pressure foot. Kinda like your present setup just a bit more foot and tooth on them. Possibly do some searchs on 441 juki zipper feet, surely will drum up some mountable parts if not theres always your own custom setup or lastly grind some as mentioned. With this production it might be a good option later after trying and figuring your best options, and hopefully with some affordable pieces. good luck I will keep an eye looking for something

Man that's nice a bike and some great leather work, Thanks for sharing the pics. I could easily spend all day checkin that place out Floyd

Hi Matt ! That 563 is the grunt unless you go to the 1508NH and these only because they have a more square feed engineering style than the 563 and others. At 800.00 even here its a find, But if a thread above 138 is wanted a lot then yes I agree the 441 style is a good pic. The offering 7204 cowboy hightex is an interesting machine I think along with its 7205 friend Keep us posted on your finds, Good day Floyd

Dale, I'm not understanding the problem in order. So I would purchaser another bobbin setup for 277 for a start, then with your friend sew some scrap in several straight lines only. I say this to better understand if an issue starts inline or at or after a turn in the fabrication. Possibly send out the project fabrication until this system is worked to the fine tune setting which always is a case for a production. In any case a step by step is needed in this online thing, but a certain set of parameters need checked, set and seen from this side "clearly". Good day there Floyd

Agree real nice, I picked up a small bar style basket from him recently and would like to get the larger # 3 also. Martyn what size is the basket in the photo your using there, the Celtic is a future purchase for sure. Sitting here looking at the flyer they sent now. Good day Floyd

I had just ordered Stohlmans book on leathercraft tools and the use, a very good book I had for 1 day. The round and head knife mention was interesting with regards to handle length as holding in palm with two fingers just onto the blade metal and well behind the edge. Honestly this was interesting because I ordered a first head knife prior to book delivery and the following knife order was backordered. So now I go in more informed from the site here, the book I have now, and this post. Thank you all and Good day Floyd