brmax

Ok If it helps, in humor I didn't catch that can you make the sound again - ok go! I turned some wrenches in a past life and with good friends this was quite fun, Sorry. But hey are you turning the wheel opposite normal direction, this is the ticket in resetting the clutch to lock in, so looking from that end clockwise. Oh ya after the bobbin and cap removal ( great!) does that shaft move by hand, without trying the reset. Floyd

Can you remove the bobbin cap/bobbin holder first. I first have to agree and see or ask if there is thread bound up in the hook area, looks as though there is thread of sorts anyway. Second did the bobbin get wound fully. Third the hook carrier is 180 degrees at the 6 position and so unbinding whatever by hand with no electric power seems a good choice. that carrier has the slot and sets with the piece on top, when you get this atop and free, discussion on that area are on the site here. good day there Floyd Check photo below, Gregg @ Keystone posted this for information on another article.

What is in demand there?, other than that very interest. There must be dealers over there, surely you would not have to go through an importer. Have a good day there

This http://www.rochfordsupply.com/shop/Upholstery_Tools/Snap_Fastener_Tools/Pres-N-Snap_(Aluminum)_for_Installing_Fasteners/index.html snap tool is the cats az for my boat canvas work, it truly only sucs when it falls into the drink, and when your eighty miles away from shop its a cost for sure, but a very cheap item in some situations that I cannot graciously explain anywhere. I have added another new one if that explains it. Let me give it a try what your asking, but as I mentioned the flat or low base few people sell, but may be an item to chase down. I use Scovill mfg for snaps ok with total veg thickness listed with the two layers roughly 8-9oz follows, this is crimped with tool above. I think using the mallet with a die set can work perfectly fine with this listed. 1. snap button with brass post 5/16 with std spring, total .280"/2veg. 2. flat back post, nickel plated w 3/8"post-other side using standard stud base works best, total .262/2veg. 3. flat back post, nickel plated w 3/8"post-other side using "lowbase" stud, at total .275"/2veg. this is great, easy setup but to loose, This setup works good though use of "another" separate purchased die, the low base die 8662 and just gives a variable. The veg-tan initially compresses so if doing this somehow prior, can be used as I'm sure many no that trick good day there Floyd

These snaps I hear are sold many places in smaller qty. Honestly I use them 24's on canvas stuff and buy min of 100 generally 500 but doing one every 8" around a 30 boat you go through jus a few. I know when it is compressed it doesn't matter if its leather, canvas, nylon etc. In some projects using different length post can fall short with "standard" studs, these standard studs actually have their center raised a bit and give tension of a sort. In some or maybe a great pick for leather sometimes is to use a "flat base"/ low base stud these will have the center flush/flat with the surface. These low base studs I use most on hard surfaces and with pop rivets on boat stuff many times so in short can give or gain a 1/16 darn near, so maybe look for these options possibly. good luck Floyd

Yes I can imagine being on an island, everything can have a seriously different price. For best replys a model number on that machine in the photo would be more accurate. In my other opinion a needle feed would be good for your other sew needs but a bit heavier for the leather and this would move the need up to a compound feed or sometimes termed walking foot style. just my 2 cents and that wont buy bubble gum. good day

Excellent work, cool design and the wood has some neat red to it. Floyd

Ya have to admit them guys at SLC do put in their videos some great humor while getting use to your new Cobra machine. Like was mentioned earlier a machine for products your focused on making and then there is always an option for other machines to do something specific. The potential for classifieds here on site is great to keep an eye on. good luck Floyd

Should be cheaper because I thought it was near Greece

This is probably the best place to offer it with a few photos, and some of the usual questions like does it have reverse, is the motor a new style servo motor and general shipping options. Thanks for the opportunity Floyd

Are the machines being used setup doing the exact same product and pattern, as you know some task can be in question. In trying to help with your question, This is leather projects we are talking about I'm guessing. So can you help me first in example why they don't perform equally and or in what task for us to help better answer does one need adjusted or changed out. good! its Friday Floyd

Yes the option machine with reverse will make your days much better, and your thread choice now may be hand thread so with machines of that style the largest thread testing will prove best at this time, that size will be 138-and ?maybe 207 on top. Sometimes the issues are going from one level to another in the fabrication, like a seam and that bump can be the adjustment needed, most are setup for one layer jump/bump with heavier jean, leather, canvas so overcoming this seam may well need more "step adjustment" proper. If it is tested with the largest thread you will use as above and "would" be best as this may require a hook/needle adjustment and the best time for it. I think your Dad would be happier installing a pre made option, or a smaller pulley at first if by choice btdt very best of luck to you all good Friday Floyd

It looks as though the table, stand, light are like new. Maybe the machine head even though a older design as its less reverse is new old stock, NOS. I agree that with a nice servo motor replacement the machine would be a nice flatbed to have, and this is even though the motor is likely a new clutch motor. good day Floyd

Glad you found a trail, and to mention that model would be very tough to best. I agree finding some zipper feet with smooth surfaces would be super for this leather sewing. and please! post any leads if you do Something I thought a bit interesting is, the presser feet should raise the same amount when walking, and smartly you picked up that issue, maybe a link out of adjustment or really became loose enough to get moved. Another bit I found interesting is the presser feet length "ideally" should be the same length when mounted as the previous removed set. This I know can work in some fabricating / sewing we do if not the same, but in a perfect world this is really the only way to avoid proper machine re adjustment when this foot change is made. And a problem is sometimes we may change this out a couple times or more a day so this becomes more a concern. It bothers me as I don't have an answer where to purchase these I need "that would be the same" but I can easily say if the factory specification were strictly held to they would not be so cheap. So it may be this issue has bearing if you can install the previous presser feet and return to sewing as it did before, if it did sew alright before. have a good day, and welcome any new finds Floyd

Curious!, the only reason I initially looked at the post was because of the 217 bernina. A machine like that and a even bit heavier model would keep my attention for awhile, though I'm busy enough and I best get to work! good day Floyd

Hi Matt I seen a site that could lead you close to some machines or leads possibly, they show to be www.texspec.co.nz Anyway some knowledge with DA sales is in there corner, so I'm sure they know of some locals that could be a great source. Probably find several machines with their connections, if so keep us posted on any. Good day Floyd

Sorry Alan, your selected machine choices and in the craigslist add for "your area" the ferdco listed at 800. I mentioned negotiate or try to and put a servo on it also. The other selection you list was at 600. this is probably the same type machine, with some needed study by you as I don't know much more than searching here which " i did" your welcome. So a bit more homework on your part to sell yourself on these choices you brought, as either one with some short cinches can be used in manufacture (with steady controlled hand) sometimes helping to feed and guide the product. "not the recommended" but hey we all sometimes make things work when we have to. Maybe in these products your considering to produce, a totally different approach with machine choice and so even a heavy flatbed could be used, although some mention of several types were talked of in the "recommended machine post", These selections you listed are not at the top in the post at all. ( you answered your post with; is there something better, a walking foot ) like you knew these were not, so I'm not picking up what your putting down. but anyway run what ya brung! Its really your decision, as its your money and your selections may not have been at the top in the machine recommendation post.? Sundays are pretty laid back, makes for a good read time between game plays Floyd

Rocky that is sure to be some production work as I see it, and say the little time I have had one " a rotary knife olfa" is pretty sharp Just wanted to be curious with any information you have, as to using one for this work because it would sure give a time and durability test result. Floyd

Hey Alan what did you find in your google? at least what you found interesting in your search. To answer your question. yes; there is something better, weather you want to invest that amount at this stage is the bigger question of requirements needed? yes; agreed a walking foot machine would be great, as mentioned earlier your selection looks like it is not a walker, maybe a photo ? now, how much are the machines costing to be at your place If choosing take the ferdco and negotiate, along with adding a servo motor to it, on your end. good day Floyd

Harry that's a nice workbench, for sure! I'm needing to fix one up and that helps the plan. Hey Dwight did that top mat come like a sheet or is it rolled, I really don't have a clue there? Floyd

I think I seen another post where the 440 was very close to the cb105 in its build, so if searching it has these same traits and mentioned on here. If you take a look at that model and it shows to perform task you mention, and the price is right well your on your way. I find all machines will require your attention to learn them! and the tough study of proper tuning the model, this can be patiently attained from the many many members on the site here. It seems I search sometimes for a particular and have read "in the same post" yet didn't see this new particular search interest. So sometimes google it and even then look for this site in the results, you will be amazed how easy that turns up things. that boggles my small mind later Floyd

Many machines at different places have paint around lubrication holes, these are the first operator places to put about 4 drops of "sew" machine oil into. Some have these painted different colors yours looks to have black paint, I would use these first and search around for a operators manual. When looking for more specifics the manual will list other places to lube like inside the end cover at the needle end, this needs removed if it has sat for awhile, and some general drops of oil on linkage areas. While you have it tilted you could use a general oil drop or better at the shaft locations visible, and nothing wrong with a light coating on them if dry. The lower pans on these industrial machines are just that, and to catch oil drops from good lubrication daily when used that way. Also some of these pans have a container of sorts to catch the fluid, in your one of your photos it looks to have something in the pan this may be for a container type jar that screws on the bottom. As you may know the bobbin is just pulled out from reaching under and using the area at left pan cutout, a couple drops in the hook area when you remove the bobbin cap at this time would be good and during the day if used daily following the manual. Some on here will surely find a place to get one this weekend. It looks as though things were kept pretty tidy, so oil it well, and go ahead and take some covers off that's perfectly fine and gives you a great idea of the workings, they are made for you and its your machine now so have a good look and enjoy. good day Floyd

Zuludog, omg! I can see my wallet getting thinner now, why yuuuu Really, Thanks for the link, I seen already some great tools in the ad link for over here. On another note the mats or available surfaces for cutting and punching I could use some more information on myself, I have a small black plastic type and it works but not big enough for cutting with rotary. have a good day Floyd

The first knife I bought not long ago was Henley and seems to me a good tool, I thought about it pretty slowly and from a bit of searching and reading on the site here. I had seen there is several custom makers talked about here and I'm sure from! here in ancient times. I now have almost a hand full of tools and that's fine, their the top line from my study on here and this seems to work. I kinda looked at it like using a box-end wrench on a contrary nut with "next to no room to move the wrench", now I have did this you might say more than a few times so heres the truth from some one that put food on the table for a living doing it and time is food. A snap on wrench has next to nothing in slack or slop so the removal of tough nuts is really forgot about in short order. ( my first snap on wrench complaints as a 19year old; these #%^# wrenches wont fit on this painted nut) hmm, that's why you always take a cresent wrench "to crack n remove the paint" On another note have seen cows out my windows my whole life and haven't a clue about leather workings, toolings now I found some of these articles on here are pretty sharp. Well coffee is done and got to get back to the sew machine, good day there Floyd