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It sounds kinda normal with the loops and all, as ya may have noticed a feed difference also. That would be like having your knee against the lift, its just jacks everything up. So here I'm going to get back on the porch and say get a feed dog with a groove but get it from one of the sponsors here, some times I like oem parts if available. If you were to look at a parts list they may show a couple different tooth patterns and this is where I depend on the pro shops advice to help me with what I do most, then look at option for say leather as on the site here not a lot of interest in gouged leather from the ole biting dogs So maybe an opportune time to get their experience on one or more options, I'm gonna play the trained monkey here hahaha On another note them presser feet are some wicked pullers it looks like, but so is 30-40' canvas ~ understandable. Floyd

A few I have also had a taller feed dog part with the binder kit, so ya might look in any extras/boxes with the machine. I found this out with a machine purchase of mine with the binder setup, lucky old oem parts were in a box. If its all a machine does bind I believe the better setup but back n forth materials and items to sew I kinda agree its a pita and reason I removed one also. Floyd

Beat me to it guys, I finally decided to say something here. so Hey Seth welcome to the site man, one can throw some serious money in this direction and so if I was ready or able, you would see me getting a 867 Durkopp Longarm sew machine at lots a $ with a Efka servo at about 900. But hey let me get real, I mention some things on here and else where and some times it leads to purchases with sponsors and contributors of the site or other close industries. With that take a look at the link and talk to Greg he can fix ya up with one of these and has had a belt in my other orders also and that's a cost advantage, also a good contributor around many sites in the sew machine arena. http://store.keysew.com/catalog/product/f12bce0ab9754bbc84a8055aaf375ffc The older models can opt with a smaller pulley, On my present one as this its not listed with a smaller pulley and a reason I didn't ask about it was, My considering of different reducing pulleys for again my present machine. I am weighing two different types and if they will work on my table which is not a standard sew table. So I'm considering the new box type reducer setup or the early present post type that's been available, just haven't made a decision there. Though I would ask Greg if you could get and use a smaller pulley on the setup in the 6000sq link this option would help a hair bit, if not using a reducer "at this time". good day Floyd

First isn't that the big bobbin machine, something rings to that anyway and its not even 7pm. As Uwe mentioned some great post on tops, and might even google it, I'm sure plenty will lead back to here and maybe in short order. I would really consider a thicker top than the usual 1.5" as I have retrofitted every used one i have. The 2"x1/8th angle welded frame. Not because its cool but they have sagged honestly, I had plenty of other things to do. fwiw If considering a plastic edge you can make your final thickness to whatever you get ordered some of them are rare or odd measures imo. But anyway it cost about as much to ship a top as the top itself, or pretty darn close. In a frame I would really look into a factory "newer" h frame i think it is they call it, If ya can swing it i heard they were pretty nice. Good luck there Floyd

I been picking it up from Miami corp. and just use clear for lite colors and black for dark colors, it freaking expensive and I cant see a bunch of stock at 200. a 1lb spool, 4 is enough for two tables I just have to get off me rear, I let the 1341 share ptfe with the 08 being on the same table corner and so doing its thing on cuffs n post closures etc. As I recently started and tried to listen just a few years ago, a tough thing for hard headed person, Solarfix It seem to address early issues of Tenara before they may? have done something different, and this I was just learning from the voices in the trade I heard so I went this direction only for the boat covers and that type outdoor stuff. As ya know its one of them "ok lets get serious now" priced products just as tenara ptfe and I guess that newer product. I heard early in 2016 and so looked at Quality thread and they have it now with! hold on! more colors now! getm all. http://www.qualitythread.com/SolarFix It is a weird feeling thread, but I have did my best adjusting everything here and can switch from poly and back with little to no tension turn, it was not a expect it to work thing for sure. But honestly I tried this learning on my first 212singer machine that I got way back, and canvas and lite leather stuff was my focus and near all my education from here on the site with the members sharing this n that plus the popcorn search engine benefits. At this time I haven't tried any other ptfe, it seems solarfix is tite pulling from machine, crazy tite!, then set the poly in the same holder and again pull from the lever guide as my habit and just as smooth n easy. And they both run darn near the same looks on my materials I set them up on, top gun and top notch, then again I'm sticking to a few things to do and try to keep it simple. With the big cover stuff I'm not sure what size there is available in any big ptfe seems I heard what you mention limiting size, but that may be just Miami. I'm gonna assume poly and nylon are still doing the Xheavy truck tarps and Xheavy equipment, but really haven't a clue i stopped wrenchin on heavy equipment in 11. I like the 1508 it can punch thru the clears and I'm sure markalon, but don't get me wrong and discount the 1541, here one walked right through just as the 08 did, but it wont do it as long though I'm positive. I didn't mention it because it runs a clutch mitsubshi and actually my go too or the big tbl honestly the other positioners I have dream to be that quality, it has all that factory bactacnstuff I don't use. I turn only the positioner on. A great CL find with the most juki hours on it, 40 as a factory decided to make a few gulfstream n corvette carpet mats, with only one operator. this one sat. fwiw except my old perfect now 212 (re system 135x17) I had to go to other states for every machine I have. have a good day there Floyd

Some minor testing here today with a 1508 with a 5000SQ and 50mm smallest oem option pulley, and a 1341 with the 6000 and running its 60mm standard included pulley, both outside measurements and where both the belts ride a hair above. no reducing system pulleys I will say first that one is running a 190 sys #19 needle in the 1508, and this will clear to sew .550" Veg tan or equivalent Top Gun canvas, (this prevents needle bar from hitting foot at this sew thickness ), as foam and some cording etc etc and really my only gripe so use this setup. Its clear I'm not using this setup for this heavy stuff as today, and these both are standard point needles for textile normally, so with that just some interesting facts here. 2nd the 1341 is a bit different with the cylinder and I couldn't tell anyone what gear reduction stuff n stuff is different in the compounding torques bottom side but tops are same, so that should cover the way out theres. Anyway the 60 mm pulley may well be the difference as the 1341 w/6000 sq, it grunts much more on a start and at very slow sewing/punching of either at .460" thickness of either materials mentioned and more so with the coated textile actually, fwiw. Oh ya thread in these today is solarfix 2000, a 92 size I wont hesitate here and really wished I had more of the same stuff as needle system and same pulleys at minimum but hey, we will have to chalk it up with a tooth pic talk. So the 1508 with the 5000sq and using the smaller pulley walks through the .550" pretty darn easy, yep that was .550 or 6 of 6oz and measured, though the motor is a bit more hidden under the table its not grunting and punches the veg tan and equivalent top gun w/no sweat. I can say the 6000 may well save itself easier as if it senses a slippage (say with a positioner) it puts itself in a no go operation! and requires a on/off reset, I mention this only because the other 5000 has never encountered that status. In these check today I did as ya see reduce the thickness to continue smartly because the needle bar issues, and this is a problem I have and so gives me excuse to mention "leather needles in sys 190" hello where are thou anyway I know these can be more uh bendy. Its what I need and will have to live with, also reason why the 13 runs 135sys. for the moment. and I know where's the popcorn with all that hot r Happy new years everyone Floyd

I think the company started and got a line out pretty quick in the servo motor segment, and made more of a market. Most others similar at and below their price level followed or rode the marketing of the technology with the marketing of help of many other big dogs in my opinion and that's biz. Seems to me the electric controller is the tough nut here, as many operators want more of a ramp in their start speed and I'm no different. There are some tweaks known for the 5000 and their similar market types in controllers, its not for the faint of heart. Some of late mods look great fwiw. The 5000 had an option of smaller pulley's and that is a big plus I think, no-matter what one is doing in or out of factory production and piece work. Most experienced operators from listening replace with a servo when a clutch motor fails I think. With that, they could make them really do whatever they wanted is all I know or understood. I have some on a shelf, in new perfect shape. I can say with experience old ones don't bring much at the scrapper, maybe enough for a quick x small breakfast. Many servos are available without fancy motor covers, that used to include a controller in housing so now some are used and available for different machine installs. Also this made for some different tweaks in treadle or handle start ideas or whathavya's (yes that's a word). just you wait till next year ; ) I found the newer 6000 comes with a smaller pulley, though I'm not recalling if its as small with the other option pulleys the older motors models. I find the start seems a hair better as far as ramping up, but this is a learning curve also with these motors ( they want to be at a higher speed ). The use of these servos in standard install still gets one to use the pulley for perfect needle position and that's a bit different feel no doubt, and so a task in learning. Some owners op to try or commit to a needle positioner and like its functions, others not so much. In my opinion these all could use some old tech from mitsubishi positioners from clutch motors as one I still have in main usage. I cannot say in tech language whats the difference but will say clearly one stitch means one stitch not 2 Some of the controlers may now be heading towards a magnetic type or something similar to that in their start or ramping up of speed. One can look around in guugle for servo motors with several brands and make a purchase because the price is great along with minimal weight to shipping cost. There's no doubt been some really cool builds with these motors on other machines, so in all they are great motors and will just get better with their controls in their present price range. good day Floyd

Its a good video to check out, it may have been a long time ago for me and do recall mentioning it with a link to some others, so +1 on the study. Of course do some popcorn! I have to slow down and take a good look myself at the seam step or any big seam really, but this here discussion we were talking briefly the other day on another juki machine. The walkers all are similar in the "alternating or equalization and step height adjustment" and I think they all have a different term. One of the very first things that threw me off in these machine terms somebody said a banana link adjustment, I thought omg wha?! where am i. Anywho that is a term related to that exact adjustment you will find helpful, I'm sure some will chime in maybe with a first check or two with a heading in that direction. Interesting actually in your other next new machine hunt for your particular canvas work, you wont go wrong with a 1541, seriously! btdt. There are also a couple of 1508 the( N ) and ( NH ), there not a 441 brute but its clear the NH is the top dog under the 441 in my book. Weather ya need that is up to you, I think ya will be happier with a side loader for general canvas. In doing some leather work this maybe studied a bit more, I know some of the pro shops can tweak some machines to run a slightly bigger thread possibly but not sure going back n forth above 138. It depends on your finds really, be patient for sure. Floyd

Tejas Thank you very much, that's over the top. its a great day for sure Floyd

Good morning I could use some help finding a part number for a mechanics/engineer manual for the Juki LS 1341. Haven't seen or found it in the parts manual I have 29351202 / no.1313-08. They have an instruction manual no.2 / 40095664 with great detail and settings for operator and somewhat above, I have this manual. Though I'm curious and thinking there is another manual out there, with say more in depth knowledge with gearing, hook, shaft or linkage information. If somebody knows of a lead I would appreciate it, a factory copy is where I'm headed. I'm not in a bind with needing adjustment or broken machine, just looking around. Anyway with a number I can take a look around for options. Thanks everyone, appreciate any help Floyd

What can I ask is the full number of the needle and also the thread size or ticket, that would help me a bit. I think were in metric talk just want to be clear with system. Sounds like the gear screw was really messed up, so now the gear can be secured well eh! good to get that repair done. Any more pics are great maybe we can get the post together later. good day Floyd

Good Day Its clear to me with the photos this is a keeper; with that it doesn't look to be broke in yet. So in this part of the forum everyone wants to help in their replies, so no pushing to make any moves. Good luck with your location moves and when ever others can help in some of the steps either way jus give a shout. The machine move would be best just my opinion, with removing that machine head from the table no-matter and covering securely with several move blankets. keep us posted, and moving? advil is my friend Floyd

You may need an additional machine, for these times. I would guess to say handling and moving a new machine at the new location to be considerably less. This really brings up part of the production we have to find an interest in, just because the call / arrive time of a sew tech mechanic. As you mentioned already changing items to be known issues, and so great moves there along with finding ourselves having learned more about our biz and benefit some. On the topic of moves it may be an option sending just the machine head out with materials used, to a brick n mortar place to evaluate and or repair. In some searching around here, there are some great packing and shipping techniques used by others that work well and in honest opinion "required". It maybe a couple hundred shipping with ins. fwiw In checking some mentioned possibilities from other replies patiently, there's only a path forward. Best recommendation I can say following the others is think of each as a step in the manual and they most times rely on each other and so best left as part of the procedure. good day Floyd

Kinda reluctant to say! With the on n off sewing its one of them unknowns, but with the experience its probably like mentioned a winding issue. I say that because it sounds like more than one spool, yet maybe the same winder/spooler whatever! The spool I had some issue with earlier this year was at a half point though I picked up the machine used and cannot say how the first half performed, but what I can say is I was told the machine sat for a good while. Though it was covered when I picked it up Surely there cannot be two different stickers being applied on the same assembly, wha! I have wondered that seriously last year looking around for big thread. This I suppose is the normal procedure when interested to supply, and so request a hefty minimum number of spools. Probably need quite a few spools to get the big dogs to take interest in your thread sales. This area here is where I thought there must be small winders/spoolers taking over last runs, and or re-spooling to smaller spools in some quantity for custom orders. I just look at them factories doing this and can only imagine the giant spools that get put into a re-spool bin, then to get sorted and put up for bid to other companies. ( can see it now: ok folks Thursday we change to green, all car size spools get put in gigantic bbarrell, and don't poke around, getr done!) I'm not yet understanding the spraying or dunking of spools in any solution methods as yet, but realize a bit more now how thread lube is used sometimes in heavier sole type construction. So now listen up more with some mentioning the use of it for lighter work and or tough leather projects, never to late to learn they say. good day Floyd

I call it good, and go with it. He will be great full, I sure would. The question made me think of them wood rollers in the glueing of furniture and what have ya, followed with the rolling, removing of air along with compressing. good day Floyd

Hi there Wiz, you know I think your right, I only talked to the shop once out there and it was a real good experience from the front desk clear back the machine techs. Well, this was a part that I decided to take another crack at this evening. Not quite as familiar with the shuttle machines but I think the other shop tools scared it and so tapping around on tension spring a bit with some brass did the trick. I guess a learning curve of sorts so anyway at present I can pull the knots down and believe theres a bit more working area to be had, or a couple turns possibly. At first jackin around with it the center of the spring was preventing the bobbin assembly and so a tap or two adjustments remedied that to a better curve. I managed to run a test on couple 5oz layers and then again with a couple 8's and so with perseverance turned a pretty good test run this evening. Now I can get cracking on some projects, and appreciate the tips you all. good day Floyd

Thanks Tinker, on this one I do or did loosen the set screw when I started working with it. Just from picking up some procedures here listening a bit, and some of the different guys doing some u tube videos. Its all a great benefit for sure, even just reading some conversations without having a particular machine or doing a certain tooling technique. It seems later on many times some of the key things are remembered, hopefully more than forgotten Back at it, I've tried bending the spring steel a bit but as mentioned I was trying not to screw it up. Even considering that little piece is pretty darn tough, so one reason to mention it here. Also a good idea as more experienced members can throw some required and other questions, I totally get that as an old wrench it just works best. With the situation here I have removed the spring screw and re-assembled and found the tab if one can call it that where the screw goes thru, well it does bottom out against the bobbin case itself, and so none or not enough squeeze for the thread. Maybe I should use this tensioner spring on for 346 and up possibly : ) In the past I have adjusted a bit with the top tensions in the beginning and seemed to have dialed the machine in with the bobbin spring as is, but from the get go noticed I could not get the bottom side to produce much tension to see and why I should want to get what everyone doesn't want. I'm laughing trying to figure why I want that problem Its crazy but it has a pretty decent stitch in my opinion just not available as it should be, so to bend the spring correctly maybe impossible. I haven't called any the pro shops for parts yet, and considered that in the steps ahead respectfully. And thought its a pretty good time to ask here as some time is avail with the holidays. Hey thanks, and good day there Floyd

If it doesn't have a thread trimmer it can be adjusted by accessing through the removable plate on the back. The plate above the arm closer to the needle, in there you can see a slotted link and a lever bolted to it. On the linkage you can see normally 3 markings and represent listed heights in the manual, (normally issued with new machine) or in my purchases used, but intended to be used. Anyway the lowest setting is at the bottom and so raising through this banana shape slot can help in your mentioned projects. I would just move to the first next position for a start, actually anywhere in the slot is acceptable, again the marks represent tested/spec heights generally. I have learned that if returning to more flat work that this adjustment could be returned to a low setting for better efficiency. Sorry, I seriously need better camera pics good day Floyd ps: as you see the tube down through the casting, you can see with moving the pulley wheel, best position for oiling "that" link specific and tips to view in other access panels and etc.

As the photo shows the bobbin tensioner spring, and is a pretty tough nut trying to carefully bend with a couple pair of pliers. To think id like to be able to run a tensioned thread on the bottom, ? na The knot most times is above center and would appreciate it if I could get it to just move when I adjust the screw.

The top photo stitch line 2 from right where thread broke I suppose and where it shows frayed looks a bit tight, and actually close but maybe overworking to pull up bottom. Especially when flipped over and see the corresponding stitch line 2 from right (around the 2:00 position) and though hard to see it looks as though the knot is centered or buried anyway and I'm not seeing it on that specific part of the line. Some reason I cannot see much of a hole in the bottom and sometimes that's the way it is, not as purdy, but the hole in the top to my eyes is big enough. So maybe a needle type as a change may help the bottom pull up easier if ya can find one, or try a bigger one as mentioned at first. Floyd

Hey you all with my cobra4 craigslist find I picked up earlier this year, I didn't have to tune much at all with it and kept with the 277 thread size though replaced with poly. I did find replacing the old spool of thread did everything I had issue with in the stitch tension issue, off n on every 3". I'm positive it had a catch in the spool somehow so not being any particular type thread thing. So anyway getting a few more chances to put some leather under it, I have found with some earlier adjustment. Here goes, that even though I have top tension backed off and flush with thread end, seriously. Lower tension knob a thread from being flush, the machine with some tuning sews good with what I been messin with 5oz to 5layers of 8oz with just messin around stuff. My gripe is, in a sense if I have any The shuttle tensioner, screw is tight and I actually have no adjustment (knock on wood) as mentioned before it runs a pretty good stitch. I have kindly started to remove it, tweak it with no results. I guess I have not bent it enough in any way and am still at max with the screw tightened on re-assembly thinking I may have some change, nope. So with the need for some fine adjustment with whats been mentioned. I am now getting around to order another, as this part may get all jacked up before I'm done bending it. And this may be a time to just bend another instead. I thought this is a great time to just ask your opinions and for sure feel free. Thanks Floyd

Many times the last minute decisions are a winner if choosing a tool tested by the masses, my opinion try a CS Osborne for this go round. Their most times affordable readily available and they do work, If one of the pro tool guys like B King, Beard and J Watts has a punch available well then you can bet its ready enough out the box to do work. I know this because as an old one and yet new to this going with pro equipment when able or critical always results in many points ahead. good day Floyd

I think some things do promote good patterns for the many, that said I like to use one pair of holes in the thread post. To add I don't always use that pattern in fact I consider the big thread and use it to take a twist out, or attempt that. With all this hot air in my reply, I don't feel its a hard rule to use a pair of them holes in the thread guide post so just one is fine as a guide In my opinion. It also seems to me different thread types can be way different in the mix and so the bobbin can be set next to nota and maybe 1oz for a test. good day Floyd

Hey you really got that cleaned up sharp, and music just hearing it sew, Great job! Floyd

The techsew outfit in the upper portion here on the site can help out probably if ya give them a ring. I didn't notice any utubes vid on maintenance. good day Floyd might try these for some info