brmax

I have used hammers on chisels, drift punches, center punches, during my past 30plus year career as a construction and ag mechanic. So this in meant to be a kind recommendation; unless you have a safe place for the grinding to re-dress the edges and ends of these metals," with sparks flying" another type of striking tool may be best. A long ago simple rule I had was no wood work/saw dust in a mechanic shop, now semi retired the rule is no sparks in the canvas leather shop. I remember the first serious scolding "though small it stuck" just starting to use a nail set for furniture to use as a center punch, ( bow head slow eye close) whoops! oooo k I don't think this really addressed the issue but i'm waiting on the coffee to finish and thought it bolstered a better reason. good day Floyd

good morning! Great ideas guys with all the drawing options! In some ancient times when a 386dx was a bad az computer I used autosketch, the 90's it was and a beginning to the pro version Auto cad that Pro designers at my work used. Lots of time spent at the desk and using the mouse pad whew, my eyes hurt! Best thing was my smarter dear wife picked up as donation, a messed up "end" roll of paper ( for book making ) a local company. She was a leader for girl scouts and I can say the roll at like 36"x 9dia is gone now after 30 years hehe, a lot of kid craft get togethers believe me. These rolls aren't lite either, they really work great for table covers, archery arrow tuning, shot patterning and many other, other than intended task maybe a couple hundred yards, and not even a measure of the beginning amount seriously. I'm not sure the diameter of these rolls when starting a book project but I suspect very large and this was a great gift for a business to offer and it worked great for the local and visiting summer time scouts. ( and you know who carried it around A tip I found you guys might use, is in my canvas work the 2" diameter tubes from the rolls seem to work well for storage of some of the paper or any flexible type patterns. later Floyd

The hand stitching thread you use now will probably designate your top size, this should get your question answered. I think some items really require a certain size thread for strength, and just to be depended on and so used. If you have some specifications required to go with your projects, then the machine size capable to commonly run that "day in day out". Some searches on here I find myself seeing many other interesting bits and have to put the whoa! on and get back to my search topic started. So take a look and enjoy a bit, and for sure share any tips you find. good day Floyd

Your welcome Mat Which ever you decide on, enjoy it and keep us posted with some great photos of your projects. good day Floyd

Only servo down side is you may have to get headache meds, reason; you have not decided to finally turn the radio and TV's volume down! Floyd

It is possible from the brochure the 2810A-7 model shows to have available this large needle feed dog # 40125925 so this maybe possible to have the clearance, but without photos its tough to say. This below photo is the particular conversation I thought interesting and followed, and as you can see "after this finding" some new products were modified and a process for some pro editions machined. It is in a google under the feed dog issue with some searching. Anyway the left in black is the 1508 showing plenty of room and these others below the 867 and 2810 one modified a bit trying to remedy this issue and the other right a standard, these making issue with the larger size ptfe thread primarily. I would like to say both these model machines are nice and I would like to own either and this information was just mentioned in trade so hope it can help, as one can see a bit of work can address this particular issue. The other feed dog part numbers shown in brochure are 40133270, and 40133272 this may help in choosing options or in discussion. good day there Floyd

+1 I would be looking for a malfunction code and then it would be history, pdq ( . ) all aside a thanks for the video build and lesson in it, its great! Some of these things nowadays, its like no one understands, so mfg's think and started then continued to promote by putting more beeps n whistles. What happened to hey! stop look listen with one beep signal. I have seen this also grow in flashing lights to a point its almost normal, and or insignificant and this has been a hazard. Why I don't know but I'm using a spare / left over dorm microwave in the shop that seems to beep 5 times, "uh hello" mfg's 1 signal time is good, I'm from the old school and understand " stop" .

I have heard there is not enough factory machined clearance on the feed dog, issue is between the hook and the feed dog surface, I believe it screws up the proper loop formation on big thread, this is in the last 3 years. Fyi, no offense that's some home work for you to look into and this with lighter thread, but I do like the machine arm clearance just couldn't afford it. Here on the site is a few with machines for sure using them, try a search here or google search with this site in the string. Floyd

The machine is sure to be easier to move around, as all that expensive to make, old motor electrics weigh a 100lbs probably. Your Dad will be stoked to see the machine getting great use again and with the inspiration as he did before, so rock on! Its interesting in some ways how the "way over the top" engineering to make these old styles work, when using/moving out from under the factory 3phase electric poles. I have taken these off several kinds of equipment and just replaced with a standard motors for drills an other regular duty stuff so your on a roll with the help here. I think Sark9 your on it, also I recall some types with the motor run capacitors doing the same less the starter motor. So anyway with some help removing that heavy motor, and a different v-belt from ace you can be sewing up the storm in no time. It seems with general leather weights under 8oz's, a speed and power reducer pulley can be eliminated, my SQ6000 walks or runs through two 8oz's on the 1341 if the need is there so a servo in discussions should work. It may be a good time to look at the lighting some of these ran a low volt coming from the motor wiring if so don't confuse it with the regular 120 wall plug, the bulb should easily give a quick visual on that info possibly just replace with the new style screw in fluorescent. Reason I mention some factory wired don't have a plug just wired to the motor. Good luck and have fun there Floyd

So I see your moving up!, and you are straight up about the move n all. Have fun on the water, you wont be sorry. Floyd

Jeff your gonna have to send them an o fficial hallmark I'm sorry card. If it helps I get the same when I use your latest link, yet I can go to the previous and it opens, Heck! just call Greg or Bob or Steve etc. I know my brother has a time with his provider and it really surprises me being he is like 5 miles out of St.Louis, always a serious issue loading internet, typical land phone line, crop land in the river bottoms is the norm, Corn grows but not much internet!

sorry Jeff the sites work here in the Heartland, in both Chinese and English. Some places that use only dish for the transfer of data can be a pita. Mike you have how many computers? and have ?what better to do! hehehe : ) oh I know, the machines here we chat about I couldn't resist pardner, have a good day Floyd

It looks to be a double needle machine, if I'm correct that could be great for some upholstery and light middle weight materials. Always good to schedule plenty of time to operate and get instructions when lucky enough for that. The double may be an issue for typical work as I think it is best for flat work, top side, decorator looks. As some operators use a lot of turns and intricate stitch for bags n such. I mean the wide foot doesn't get along well with that and not likely to change out easily. Its as they say now days, it is what it is. The needle width setting "gauge" can be very difficult and time $ charging to change, so don't consider it something done in short order. Now if its the standard stitch seam you use or do twice then "its a money maker" in production or such work scheduled. So to close, if it runs 92 in flat work type totes, boxed, squared seams I think it kicks and wished I had it, " but I don't use my old non walker double needle enough now! " get it cheaper and you will be happy, ( I mean who can do two colors of thread at the same time? ya uh huh). It probably has a clutch motor and you can get use to it pretty quick I'm sure, and even then a speed reducer pulley upgrade installed can tractor through some mighty tough stuff, And the brand has good bones. Have a good day Floyd

You will need to gather a few more persons to help really. If this is initial setup and the machine head is not mounted yet the stand can still be tough raising. This is a excellent time to take every opportunity to establish the height you will "always want". So its best with another persons help stabilizing, I'm not positive what type stand it has and so this can be a general instruction. The bolts on each end on the up-rights will have to be loose to enable the slide/raising if it is a standard "k stand", so with plenty of help stabilizing this is the typical procedure. Have a nice day there Floyd ps: I'm in a case study now for the same, the need to raise the pedal base on one so to use any stools available for other machines that are set much higher on platforms. so take it slow and be careful

Is the only problem place where that impression, or name is at on the sleeve. Good day Floyd

Thank you both, I did call Coats and will check out the Superior link some more. Appreciate it, and it seems ultra dee is always custom in 277 and much easier to get dabond in that size, as a follow up question I ask, still though not easy. I intend to contact a couple sources they provided and probably will obtain more information along the way. Floyd

Your site shows great work and an already established professional, I suggest just a bit more if needed and select a modern post bed. This Earlene would just follow up your training investment. Thanks for sharing your site it has some nice products many of us here work our talents towards. Good day Floyd

What can I ask is your reason to check this. And to be a bit easier take look at the end of the shaft for the vee, then with a corresponding bolt in alignment and with the next further step you could remove that particular bolt / set screw to verify its in a position to secure the pulley / handwheel. if this check is done a re install torque may be good to know for the screw / bolt. Floyd edit that's funny JLS "piece" Tent99: Oh ya anyway I found from last week disassembling n loading a purdy class4 and re assembly that just the power pulley could have been loosened for adjustment. But I wanted to see if I could fill the folgers bucket full of parts, just to hear them jingle 200 miles. Yours may have one of the new reducer box types Bob has in the shop now, I wish he'd send me one just because he is cool ; )

Well! I used the contact page on their internet site for some continent wide purchase abilities. This contact seems to be at this point the best choice for myself and any others interested here now or in future projects. I haven't tried to call anyone for old school type documentation as this is 2016, but I'm sure its available. So if anyone here is branding "exact" spec ultra dee, I can be interested. If I seen a US thread manufactured under a different name that's cool and in my interest to use also, as I know Coats is I'm sure made here somewhere in the States along with UK. Good day to ya Floyd

Good morning Its not coming up in search where to purchase this brand at this 277 or above 92 size really. At this time I haven't set any accounts up with the manufacture either, but I don't see the need to for small sizes so really don't get why its tough in tracking. Can some of you help with leads where to purchase or shed some light on any particulars, I appreciate any thought with the subject. I'm ok with learning a bit with other manufactures or branding, yet still the big dog question is the curious part. Most other things I work with are in the marine environment an so a bit of lean in the poly direction for that purpose. Thanks Floyd

Hey sorry to hear of your loss, many of us with friends and relatives move through the same issues, it sucks. To help move forward a bit as mentioned describe some colors and thickness about what you measure. Floyd

That looks like its going to be "just great" putting back in. I'm sure you have better patience than I. Is the front access cover panel give a view to this area at all. That would be super! good luck, and you can do it! just clean the threads and find the other parts. Possibly some tweezers or hemostats on the backside nut to get it started, but I would clean oil from threads and check well. Floyd

In your first photo posted the bobbin case/basket that holds the bobbin is not in proper position, it may be while your adjusting I don't know, but its wrong and should be major reset before running. Thought id mention on the way through. If you take a look in Constabulary's pdf operators file 1 page, right side. Also it does not show the same or "case" latch in your file Mike. So if this is during your adjustment disregard, sorry and good day. Floyd

I'm not familiar with this view or haven't read the post very well, but is the bobbin basket always set in this position must have slipped by. Seems a bit different than other machines I see setup, as having the basket tab at 9:00 or 3 for a double needle. On the other hand that machine looks new, or very good shape. Good day Floyd

Follow up; I talked to Tony over at Cobra a few minutes ago and he set me up with a top needle bar adjustment with the bushing set screws. Straight forward guy in the Tech department ( you don't need a race ) do this first, in short order with adjustment all is good. Thanks all Floyd