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I see belt parts back there! I think if your is starting and stopping a stitch line say in that particular project. Really for that matter projects under 2'feet would seriously benefit with a reducer pulley system both for reduced speed and that your gain of the greater amount of torque the machine is happily supplied with for leather and thick material. On some machines i have retained the new front edge power switch, as its wired to motor. These retain the speed control on motor and seems to work pretty good. Another brand of servo is not going to address what you need completely, and as investment the pulley system is the 1St best choice. good day Floyd

A few differences I would consider standard, and that i look at to see are that the NH as a requirement in my book being heavy duty model just like other heavy equipment I spent working on can be represented in many ways, here are just a few. A Door that opens readily, hood- or this case the needle bar door thats cost a 100. bucs; how do i know i bought one for a 41s and believe it or not i have a plainjane 41 that had a door, go figure! (revert to top mention, what I consider standard heavy duty options) A bigger Balancer pulley, provides an constant range of momentum higher than others that zippyity doo around like little cars A bigger Casting at lower end, providing torsional strength with durability as the webbing that carries the bearings. A Tension assembly with more and better range of adjustments, there is a difference!; weather you need to have it ? These are some things above I think are considered, I suspect pressure spring parts could be different but really haven't any measures on coils. There is no doubt that in my mind some dealers and pro sew machine tech's and some others have seen clear differences and that is just the difference in my experience, a call to them can make this all pretty boring as the answer would be in short order. Then what would we do here, finger gallopin on the table! do 2 doo hey coffees done, and oh ya good morning! Floyd

Hey pardner see you've scouted out a machine again. As i was understanding the nh through chit chat post was it has a "more square" feed, so i guess the cams moving the dogs below and ?possibly some of the mechanical's above. They show this is some photos on their brochures, what i gather out of all this is less finesse in its speed and the trade off is more stomp in the trac. With the longer needle they all with that same top casting to my knowledge are capable to use it, It doesn't affect much that i found. I believe other than the letter series they all can be ordered a la carte as far as door, tensioner, etc. Floyd

That link ya have there is showing one of the newest styles of box reducer, and they are nice. Most here will use one of the reducer styles on even the normal, industrial flatbeds and cylinder arms sewing thicker materials. If you are interested in that new style or the other older post style, take a look at the dealers on top of the page here. I think they are still using the post style on the big dogs but i could be corrected there. You need a reducer with 12oz and would benefit with a big thread machine, but anyway pick up a reducer and be ahead of the game for that machine. Oh! possibly a better priced source, not sure with shipping and all that, but listed below when i last looked these places had plenty in stock. If you have pop-up's turn off some companies helping answer and troubleshoot machine questions have some good deals on reducers Ive seen. Some of the company's I have called upon, with good help all around. There are also many listed top of the page above so maybe some are close to you, but shipping is pdq with any. Leather machine co.(cobra), http://www.leathermachineco.com/ Keystone sewing, http://www.keysew.com/ Toledo sewing, http://www.tolindsewmach.com/ Floyd

Thank ya!, that was a first machine purchase for me, though wishing at auction it was a walker as Kellen found. Back then it was cleaned up pretty well and with the top being aluminum it took a shine after paint removal. I always keep an eye out for them 211 after doing a bit of learning with mine they are some nice smooth running machines. Still kick myself for missing one several years ago on the internet sale place craigslist, it was couple hours away used in theatre work. Anyway its pretty cool seeing some others on here with their machines they find. Then putting the super tune on them getting ready for work again. Good day Floyd

I couldn't find it for the world I'm sure, the video. I will say some have the thread tension at a "very" lite tension and are able to just pull material away easily with no issue at all. Some times needle size or the thread hole has a lot to do with this also, and in textiles a bigger needle works just fine and can allow this without compromising the stitch hole I haven't learned that yet with my equipment I wished, but to get going here, I seen a video of a dude doing some sewing and I did a re-wind, a few times at this vid point saying to myself ohhhh! So with the thread lever guide up and the presser feet "still holding material down" take a finger and pull a bit of thread at left side of lever several inches. Your just making slack on the top side as bottom is held solid with presser feet down. This gives you enough to pull material away and cut some thread much easier when you lift the presser feet, Its a trial and fit thing. Good luck Floyd

I think you nailed it That there probably changed the patent just enough. They could have called it some cool names but we all know they didn't want to use the real ( vibrating sucker pump ) hehehe though they should have to be clear Floyd

I seen that the other day, along with the black machine, another new product and hey! each company has their positives. The motor does look very similar to the 6000SQ, it didn't show a smaller pulley as I would promote but with the 5550 machine keeping the speed may be her priority. I suspect we are going to see many more in our future as a lot have been sold "less" housings and adapted very well as several on the site here have posted in years past. Honestly I have purchased from the company Reliable, and can say its ok, I wonder where to put exchange rate in my accounts? On a better approach to motor vendors, I will say is Keystone is a supplier and is clearly the motor dealer I happen to use and feel they have several great products brands. Sew Quiet also being one of many offered, take a look when ya get a chance. The motor switching as mentioned is a good point, something I haven't found a problem with on the flatbeds sewing, now some may want to switch up speed for bobbin winding. I agree its useful if a main switch at front table edge as I have on flatbeds. A setup on cylinder arm machines aren't to bad to adjust speed or reset if needed at motor. Again agree a main and or speed switch option on table edge would be the icing on the cake. Good day Floyd

Yes that's a good eye there, and one of them older quality things on some machines. Though some do have a different pump and stuff like lines or splash directed designs. On many of these we see you can find the "wick" kind of material is housed in these lines/tube as on that. Again many don't have the old world type yours has rather clear tubing, some lasting forever other clears last maybe a decade. Another good reason to take a look at the top for wick and any oil pads and their conditions. I believe you could say the pump on this one is small and really keyed for the hook shaft assembly lubrication. With some old trusted wick ability for lube other places like some bearing/bushing journals so a good opportunity to find the reservoirs for these wicks they work well, imo. good day there Floyd

Nice! big bobbin machine it looks like. I would take some dry air psi. or heavy paint brush and clean up the area around the saddle and hook area first very well. Then take off the top with the few screws retaining it to have a look see, Just where oiling is best or most useful. Maybe a engineers manual somewhere vs ops may help. The saddle gear box has parts for best oiling methods but with the usual slow sewing we may do sometimes a bit more oil splash may be a good plan. For the time being cleaning the areas mentioned, some good old towels on the bench will work just fine until the drip pan arrives, or you construct one. good luck it looks great Floyd

I'm not sure where the thread slack is your talking of, so I will say the take up spring at its adjustable rest position, ( the lower section part) should be very close to or at rest when the needle touch's the material or leather. This parts adjustment can some times change with say a consistent project but the most part can be set for your normal materials thickness. Once the needle is in material the springs thread control is history! the way I see it anyway. So its on to another parts responsibility, but should mention the tension of "the take up spring controller" it self can be tweaked a bit before moving on and then maybe a follow up say after some of the regular tensioner adjustment proves your thread knots are in material center or close. So some of this is an option to do one side at a time, but all this you may already have done and so all is good. Floyd

Uwe, I'm quiet about saying things like (shh) I didn't have anything better to do, my kids say that a few times, like they have a clue on being busy Anyway ya did great there figuring that out, that plate looks pretty happy there. Iwas looking earlier at the hightex site for presser feet, and should have looked at plates , maybe tomorrow! I have a quick ? did you adjust the feed dog height any in the photo and or is there available adjustment with that top plate curious. I mean hey you said you weren't busy thankyou Floyd

Its understandable that not many Sew machine mechanics, we just don't do the fabricating or manufacturing now days as our parents age group did many years ago. I can say this site has been a great find for myself, both the group of people and their knowledge, but more important the ability many feel they are welcomed to share it. On the machine I would take one of either side needle out with its specific thread top, bottom. Then move on in a complete setup as each saddle is separate, this seems to work on the non walker I have. What does come to mind and some can correct me to help out, some of these are timed at a certain stitch setting. Just something I recall good day Floyd

GPaudler, that's a nice job you worked up on that foot, I like the width also, always good to see some tips thanks! Oldnslow, I cant see the standard needle foot being used, As its so straight in back and with a 5 stitch per" setting doesn't look to have any feed dog left for other to sit on, with any rear foot mods. We may have to look at some newer feet, I seen Al have some aluminum or a tool steel set recently in a vid so maybe options out there, I will have to look at that one again. If ya see any post up 4sure Floyd

The machine you mention is a design they made just for what you mention really, some of our materials look pretty good with a certain large size thread. Though some products we make wouldn't require the strength of thread used, but again looks sometimes sells. Its a factor to figure our time on projects and then retrieve a portion for our equipment cost, seems a tough one but I would just say be sure to account for equipment that you may wish "could" do the task. good day Floyd

One thing to be grateful of is that the welder is correct and further is the metal is quality steel so any welding they can do is fine I think. The cost for a shop to do this can be expensive also, their machines aren't free either!. But if the environment of people is like around here it can be done without to much, I just wanted to mention that as there are many that hobby or do Pro work in a small settings as we might and respectfully require our funds in trade. I would take some measure of the areas that would be welded so afterwards a dremel can dress / grind the final parts as required. I don't have a tig so this would get the typical already mig loaded 7018 and do some minor prep work, angle grinding the break joints. It ust depends what sources are available to repair this, I have some gas welding equipment but I think with some well placed tac welds with a mig, then this would be ready for the dremel, The prior measure would be an important step to maintain spec clearance. To calmly close all this for a pro shop to do would be tiny meticulous out of the norm and something one could further pursue say with a gunsmith, some having a tig welder but again cost could be as much maybe more than new. Hope to see it sewing soon good day there Floyd

Good tip there Uwe That's a number that came up on a site I checked with, yet there was no photo. The price was very similar! the ironic thing is myself initially reading the top post, I thought that is in no way worth the time welding, well I would have to say outloud. It is now even if a pain or like here 12 degrees outside. good day there Floyd

That's cool!

Maybe if after them checks, possibly Trox also has a clue over the pond there for parts. possibly a 195 the same, as some pics look similar. ref good luck Floyd

As mentioned, the standard stainless screws are neat and prevent some corrosion but simply cannot hang when trying to use self tapping in plain ole steel, or actually most anything. And really they will be eliminated when ya have to remove them when broke what a pita. So respectfully they should only be used in material thickness close to thread dimension, imo. With that pre drilling is the best method on any material usage, and that dimension seriously dependent on thickness and material. To your support many self tapping steel screws no matter their makeup need pre drilling, And I sure like them but, the other ones that don't require pre drilling on general fastening to steel are a bit more expensive. So being you have these already I suggest pre drilling ?if thin base steel with maybe a range of needed bits 7/64, 1/8, 9/64" as I don't know what size screws your using and the link has a zillion op's. What I keep here is typical size 8 and 10 screw these have a rough .030" on the #8screw between threads and for the #10 screw having about .040" between threads so on steel this is where thickness runs best generally in metallic stuff. Many times as ya know the aluminum will givway and offer you options. I also like or generally only use 3M fast cure 4000 sealant. So closing I could glady go on and on but truthfully Thorntons at the Top question of how thick is the steel is the real primary to help you out, and do you have other option fasteners avail nearby. Of course if this is your own project or something of a production, if the latter I would certainly use rivets if doing again and still use 3m 4000. good day there Floyd

That's a great point Uwe, and so must be few hangups in that mechanical lever stuff. Floyd

I was remembering you mentioned having to crank down the top tension, it looks pretty stout so for sure somethings going on in that area. The solarfix is a ptfe, I realized also it feels tight in the tensioner top especially, and this stuff feels rough though and a design thing they may have picked up on to improve it. It was all really new to me and in 12 not really anything except tenara with very few people starting to use it that I heard in the marine trades. With sunbrella honestly I don't see a need for 138, I wasn't saying anything because of sails and don't have a clue there, so with regular stuff I have to lean back and remember what I heard earlier on and that most pro's kept the use of 138 primarily because of the wear of other threads in the marine, salt and sun. When they started using the ptfe for boats or awnings they dropped to 92 size because the strength was there that they needed and not the issues from wear in sun. But if it helps later on if you get some 92 size I use 19 needle and know a few to use 18 doing straights but I tried and just could pull it off consistent a mis here n there on the 08 at the time and so bumped up to 19. And try to keep everything same same for that stuff anywho. Btw I can imagine the 138 Tenara thread size your using should I think use a 21-22 needle at least similar to poly or nylon eh?, ya have to help me understand that stuff a bit more. Floyd

What weight material are you running thru there this week. What seems like the main deal today, but anyway tomorrow is hump day so look ahead. good day Floyd

Sometimes just some adjustment can get it releasing correctly or like you want again. It looks like ya have a newer release assembly their. I recall some have a pin in their parts that can get wore, though not sure on that one specific maybe singer I'm remembering. Floyd

Sounds like a nice machine, post some pic's when you get a chance. Yes on the lilly white here in the lower 48, many use it. ( for sure stick with sew machine oil ) For the time being a sewing store will carry some small bottles that will work and just be plentyfull applying it as you mention it has sat. Do keep it off the belt under the access cover, don't be afraid to put it on all linkages and assemblies besides it will end up in the drip pan. Not recommended to re use it, besides it will be a pain trying to clean and filter in any such way. Just guessing its probably setup to use either 69 thread if really clean and maybe jump to 92 possibly if generally set for heavier materials like upholstery etc. Never know though it may have been used for theatre work and using smaller threads up to 69. In any event sounds like a great find! Good luck there Floyd