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Everything posted by cem
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It's been around for awhile it didn't come in as many colours as Tiger but looks like they are starting to do some more now, the braid also isn't quite as tight as Tiger but it's still a very nice thread.
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Funny I've never had a problem with rub off or bleeding with Craftsha water based, have you used it. It's more UV stabilised than spirit based dyes from my testing and that is comparing it to Fiebings, Angelus and some other spirit based dyes from Australia in our hot West Australian summer and if you haven't used it how can you comment on what it's like, it's not like the Ecoflo stuff which I've also used. Why has this place turned into if your not using this certain product,stitching this way, applying dye that way it's wrong well pfft to that, it's fine to let people try different things and let them figure out personally if it's right for them in how they want their stuff to look. The OP asked for a recommendation for a low VOC and that is what I gave him and if it doesn't work for him at least he tried it. I have no trouble with Fiebings and still use it regularly on items I repair, I also have a respirator mask, spray hood that vents fumes and actual windows that open woo hoo. I've also worked with all types of casting resins and fibreglass and are well aware of OHSA. I have a sensitivity to the ethanol base that Angelus uses and there is no getting around it. The OP may or may not have the same problem. If the OP had asked for spirit based dyes I would of given all the ones I know of but again he asked for low VOC ie waterbased.
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Thanks RavenAus, I may of found a place in Perth that at least has the press just waiting for them to reopen after the holidays.
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RavenAus, can you get hole punch attachment for the one you have if so can I ask where you got it. The price Tandy wants for theirs is ridiculous and I'm hesitant to purchase from overseas at the moment since the our dollar has taken a bit of a dive. Thank you Cheers, cem
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If you have trouble with the smell of the Fiebings dyes the Angelus ones aren't any better and were actually worse for me. I'm able to use the Fiebings but the Angelus bought on migranes due to the ethanol base they use so I sold the lot which was a shame as they do have some really nice colours. I don't think you should have any trouble with the Craftsha, I've used it on a quite a few different veg tan leathers by brush, airbrush and dauber and have used a few different finishes with it Satin Shene, Montana Pitch Blend, Tan Kote and Atom Xax and it's looked just as good as the Fiebings professional oil dyes. I do mostly airbrush with it now as it's so easy to change colours being that it is waterbased.
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I use Tiger thread because that's what is used in the stuff I get in for repair but there are a lot of other threads that are just as good and are easier to get for a lot of people. When I first joined here not many people outside of the UK and Australia had heard of Tiger and I remember one thread where one member was completely off the mark as to what it was. The popularity has mainly come about due to the youtube videos as that is what those leatherworkers who are based in the UK are using. Tiger thread is really only economical if you can buy it in the rolls 1000, 500 or 250 metre (dependant on the mm thickness) with business pricing. If I had to pay retail prices I don't think I would be buying it, it's mind boggling what some people are charging for it.
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Not sure exactly and the Australian dollar has also taken a bit of a nose dive since I bought them but I think it was about $5 AUD for the small and $17 AUD for the large. I definitely know they weren't anymore than the Fiebings or Angelus dyes I also brought from overseas.
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The only other ones I know of is Craftsha dye from Japan and Roapas Batik also from Japan both are water based but the Batik has an off putting smell to me kind of like vinegar so I prefer the Craftsha both are better quality than the Eco-Flo stuff though. I haven't used the dark brown in the Roapas Batik only grey and beige so can't tell you exactly what it is like. The Roapas Batik is available from both http://www.leathercrafttools.com and http://www.goodsjapan.com (they are down for stocktake at the moment though). There are some other places that stock it as well but I haven't used them. Goods japan used to stock the Craftsha but it's been awhile since I've bought any and they didn't have any listed a couple of weeks ago I expect both stores should be able to order it in though. The Craftsha also comes in larger bottles of 500ml for some colours http://translate.google.com.au/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.craftsha.co.jp/&prev=search I've attached a photo of most of the Craftsha colours the dark brown fourth on left side is number 10 on Craftsha's colour chart. Hope this helps a bit
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I'm currently repairing an old leather soccer ball for someone at first I thought it was veg tan but when I took it apart it was Chrome tan, I've never used Chrome tan before and don't know what finishes should be used on it as they also have a thing for black and want it dyed black. I doubt it's for playing but I expect it will still be handled so I'm worried there might be dye rub off from it. There was a tiny bit of extra leather under the lacing where I was able to test the dye on ( Fiebings Oil Black) but it's not enough to test all the finishes these are the finishes I have at the moment Montana Pitch Blend, Tan Kote, Sno Seal, Craftsha Acrylic Finish and Satin Shene would any of these work or should I be using something else. Or should I just say nah to dying it black. Any help would be greatly appreciated I've done some searching but nothing definitive has come up in regards to redying chrome tan with Fiebings.
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Seiwa Dye
cem replied to 65scout's topic in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
I've used a couple of colours the grey and the beige it's better quality than the waterbased Tandy stuff but has a strange smell for waterbased dye kind of like vinegar which put me off. I prefer the Craftsha dye but I'm not sure if goodsjapan still stocks it or not. The Seiwa dye is also a bit more muted compared to the Craftsha. -
Wow those are brilliant, well done immiketoo.
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Algeos has it in precut insoles they used to sell it in larger sizes but it doesn't look like they have it listed anymore they might be able to get it in for you though or tell you when you can get larger pieces of it. They have offices in Australia, UK and the US, I think the UK site is the main one http://www.algeos.com/
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Heres a few threads that might help you http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=47806&hl=%2Bbaseball+%2Bglove http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=42913&hl=%2Bbaseball+%2Bglove http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=38836&hl=%2Bbaseball+%2Bglove Not sure if you have seen it yet but the second thread has a youtube video about making gloves.
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Umm no David where did you get this information please speak to an actual ip attorney about how copyright works.
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Best Dye For Painting Designs On Suede And Leather
cem replied to KateB's topic in Leatherwork Conversation
It's a MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) they don't have to show it online but must provide it if asked to. Springfield Leather has most of them for Angelus http://springfieldleather.com/42/MSDS-Sheets/ For the natural powdered dyes you might want to try http://www.dharmatrading.com/ or a place that deals with wool dyeing.Just so you know just because it's natural doesn't mean they are all non toxic if you contact dharma trading make sure you tell them what you will be dyeing, specifically that it's for childrens products. -
Sorry I wouldn't really know for Canada, as I don't know how your supply chain for the abattoirs work over there. But by going on what I know for Western Australia I would think it's highly doubtful you would be able to get anything from the main abattoirs as they only deal with large amounts ie pallet loads your best bet is probably to find a small abattoir that caters to a niche market.
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Go here http://www.braintan.com/barktan/1basics.htm I had access to as many hides as I wanted at one time as my Father in law runs a large wholesale butcher and they had there own cattle slaughtered for awhile but it's not something you can do easily it requires space, water and time. It won't be cheaper, quicker or better quality to do your own and it's not possible to do it in an average backyard. Hides that are ready for tanning are left hair on and are just salted
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That's a good price for a clamp in Australia, especially in WA as the older ones don't come up that often. I've always wondered if some of the old leatherwork machines splitters, skivers etc are hiding out in the country towns as they sure don't make an appearance in the metro area.
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Craftsha do a gel for it it's available from goodsjapan http://www.goodsjapan.jp/item/leather-craft-items-leather-fi/leathercraft-psychedelic-marbl/lid=29749040
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It's called marbling and the guy is very good at it, for leather it's most commonly seen on old bound books.
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Your welcome guys , I don't use much kangaroo leather but are always interested in how the tanneries work and it was interesting to see that they do a bit of cow leather as well. Also found out something new in that they do the leather for the Kookaburra cricket balls as I had thought one of the Victorian tanneries did that.
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Landline recently did a video on the tannery http://www.abc.net.au/news/2014-08-16/leaps-and-bounds/5676616 Thought it might be of some interest to those who buy their kangaroo leather from them. Cheers, cem
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I'm honestly not sure about the stitching it I only work with 7-10oz cowhide and use thick 1 mm thread, I think what shtoink said is probably right on the money though when working with it.
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I haven't used it but do have some, I was given it by an Australian supplier who was doing a promotion and they sent some out with each order. Your right it is paper thin probably 1 oz or less on cow hide measurements the piece I've got is about 50cm long x 5.5cm width, front has a texture like what you get on high end leather couches but finer and the back is a bit fuzzy. It would make a nice top layer on a watch strap and you would want something fairly smooth underneath as it will show any bumps, not sure if they come wide enough for a wallet though as this is the only piece I've ever seen.To be honest it gives me the heebie jeebies I'm petrified of snakes and it kind of reminds me of that. It's saving grace is that it does have a nice texture otherwise I'd probably be curled up in a ball by now