Rayban

Hw seems to be MIA again.....hasn't responded to an order I placed...emails....voice messages....concerned.

Yes Lee...that sure is Christmas red and green to me.:-)

Don, this is what works for me. When I told Toledo Bob what I would be doing he told me that any tension adjustments I need to make can be done from the top, leave the bobbin tension alone. I've heeded his message. In the pictures below is a 1/4" thick gun belt I'm finishing up. I've used 207 top and btm for the belt, same for the keeper which is 8oz. I used a #24 needle for the belt, then changed to a #23 for the thinner keeper. Something about the smaller hole it makes creates a better looking stitch on thinner leather. I'm no expert as Wiz is...just want to show you what works for me. When I get into the 1/2" thick range, I use a 277 top thread and 207 bobbin. I may increase the length of the stitch but I leave the tension alone.

I'll make a mental note of the Angleus RED, I'll do a comparison if/when the request comes around again,thanks!

I wish I had the facilities to dip dye...especially holsters.

A year or so ago I made a post looking for dye that would be suitable for Christmas gear...Santa's helper accessories, etc. I was told by a few posters that red dye would appear washed out and weak..so I decided on red chrome tanned leather instead, but it wasn't in the weight that I would have liked. So I gave Feibings RED and GREEN a try this week-end and and I was pleasantly surprised at the results......they are both Christmas-ie enough IMO. A treatment of Resoline brings up a nice luster as usual.

Because they all know I do leather work for a "living", they have all expected to pay when they request something...but I've given many more "gifts" to family members ..close friends I consider family as well.....than I've sold.

I credit Al Stohlman with just about everything I know about working with leather, but that doesn't mean I followed all his instructions to a T.....I would stab about 6 holes, stitch them, stab 6 more, and so on...and yes, I would put the awl down while I stitched. I found that when stabbing multiple holes it got me into a rhythm of sorts, and the holes were more uniform. MMV, but it worked for me. Also, it's very important to be consistent when stitching, like right side needle first, then left side, under and through, pull tight, and so on. I found this also got me into a rhythm. I now do most of my stitching by machine which is why I speak in past tense..... Whatever you do...just don't drill your holes.....very uncivilized

After following hidepounders instructions (post #6) just about to the letter.....I realized the glycerine/canvass wheel step is what was missing and keeping me from getting the edges that I was after.....now that I've added that step in my process, I'm happy with my edges. I still like rubbing the edges with my cocobolo sticks prior to the final finish........ Thanks hidepounder!

I believe those are the kind you have for an emergency "gotta punch a hole" situation, but if you're punching holes every day, like for making belts, etc......not so good, IMO.

Here's some that I've accumulated over the years...all from Tandy.....when the tubes get too dull, (or when I bottom one out on a hard surface) just replace them. Changing them out in those all in one do-hickeys gets old real fast.

That one be cool alright.....put that on a matching belt and you'll be best of show at the BBQ.

I bounced back and forth on this issue til I came up with the stitch I like best, that being 207 top and btm with a #24 needle...for the thickness of leathers I work with most, 1/4" to 3/8"...............different thicknesses require different combos (for me).

Of Elly??

Chief, excellent work....I can see it's been well thought out, and the construction is very well done. Question though.....I've made a couple of pancakes for the .500 and have wondered how long a stretch you can carry such a piece on your pant belt. I recommended a shoulder strap or baldric to help support the weight, but the customers have been adamant about wearing it on their belt. Again, great looking work.

I also use Resoline to finish the outer and I always finish the un-dyed liner with same. Because I use 4oz. W&C russet skirting, I like the richness the Res brings up in it. I've worked on belts I made a couple years ago and the finish does not rub off....still looks nice.

I've spoken with Tom on the phone about our businesses in general, he's a very busy man, and like me, it sounds like he could use an admin assistant....and a purchasing agent....and a shipping and receiving clerk......a go-fer to make post office runs....beer runs.....someone to practice the guitar for me......paint the kitchen and get the wife off my back.....not enough hours in the day.

The Cobra is brown....the Cowboy is gray......the only difference.......get the one that's closest to your hair color....and the closest to you for shipping cost savings.

I just got a Paypal notice from him yesterday that a belt buckle order has been shipped.

Some belt makers get paid to incorporate a " pre-curve" or something like that, into a new belt. They market that it's much more comfortable, but as you have proven (OP) the curve will come to a straight belt in no time at all.

My belt sander is a Craftsman from Sears, 42" belt. Costs about $140 a few years ago. It's kinda fast. Gotta be sure to keep the edges wet else you burn them. Better to have a variable speed if you can. Harbour Freight has a 30" for about $40 that works well too for leather work.

I had designs of doing the knife/gun show route but came to the realization that I couldn't keep up with the inventory either. The other makers I see at the shows have at least 100 items on display to sell....no way can I do that. So I'm content in doing the work per order...and I'm as busy as I want to be. 25 holsters a week??!!sheesh...that 's too much like work to me.

Does a Dremel tool count? I use it daily to cut, sand, etc....I find it to be very useful around the shop. I also use a belt sander on almost every project to even-out and smooth edges. A one-ton, and a six-ton arbor press. And of course, my computer

I have the 3500...while the foot will lift 7/8" I wouldn't try stitching as much...just a little too much.

Pretty nice machine...but only rated at 1/2" thickness, his is 3/4".