Rayban

Good tips Bruce, thanks.

I use it to skive about 5" from a strap to make belts....until 2 months ago I was doing it by hand, so this is like a hot knife thru butter. Very sharp, i like it lots. I bought it new from Toledo Bob..tell him sent ya.

Good idea, i better do that before i wish I had.

I just picked up this draw gauge and I like it much better than those woodies.....all metal, just feels much better in the hand and works great. Down side, sooner or later I'm bound to rake my finger or hand across the blade that sticks up like it does. I'll always use the ole woodie for small straps like for belt keepers that I cut every day.

Is this the one?? If so, $236 isn't a very good price, I bought this one from Toledo Bob for $165

I bought this one at Tandy about 20 years ago....it's simple but by no means junk. I used it daily til I started machine stitching 4 years ago. I've had to replace(improve) the hardware but other than that, it's held up very well, and it's all I've ever needed to get the job done......but I'm not a saddle maker.

I admire your resourcefulness, but I don't believe teaching newbies to hand stitch with makeshift tools is the way to go. I would hate the thought of trying to stitch with a $5 blade and a homemade handle. How can you expect a newbie to try using it without getting totally frustrated. Hand stitching is hard enough to learn to do correctly......the right tools for the job is a must. Just my thoughts.

I used to hand stitch......then I discovered electricity!!!! My life has changed.....

I've had visions of finding an old washing machine, with those hand crank ringers on top? But then thought I was over-thinking the process...I just hand rub the two pieces together with a scrap of leather, never had a belt come apart on me yet.

Desperately need 1-3/4" double prong roller buckle.......got one laying around you will sell?

I would advise gluing and stitching it to a thinner piece of veg tan, this will firm it up quite a bit and won't stretch so readily.

I made a carved bookmark for my aunt who is an avid reader, during her most recent visit. She thought it was the coolest thing she ever did see...

I have a small Cowboy skiver that has a blade very similar to the paper cutters in commercial print shops. There's a company in the area that sharpens all these blades for the printing industry. When my blade needs sharpening, I plan to send it off to them. Anyone familiar with these paper cutters, these blades are shaving sharp even when declared "dull". I can free-hand sharpen a pocket knife, but I believe these type of blades need to be precision sharpened in order to work to their optimum.

I just took delivery on a stamp from Studio-N, and while I can't show it because of the private nature of it, I will tell you that it works beautifully, the price was right and the service was great. From order to delivery was within a week. Thanks Studio-N !!

HB Tim, you mention thin stuff.....I usually, run 207 top and btm with a #25 needle, 6 spi, on most stuff I make. On thin stuff, like belt keepers, I leave the thread and tensions alone and drop to a #23 needle. I get a much better looking stitch. MMV, but it works for me.

I'm not one of the C4 owners (Cowboy 3500 here) but I learned the hard way that there are several ways to get them skipped stitches.....it's clear by the pictures that the tension isn't right. Hope you didn't mess with the bobbin tension, you shouldn't if you don't know what you're doing...that's one of the first things I learned the hard way. Any adjustment you need to do can be done with the two top tension disks. Make sure the machine is threaded correctly. Check the needle, if it has a burr at the tip, it could cause it. I learned that cheap, improperly tanned leather can give you fits.....small areas of rawhide can still be in the veg tan, very hard stuff, and when the needle hits it, it don't like it....causing a burr.....causing is to not pick up the loop just right.....walla, skipped stitch.

Hold the work between your knees...sometime you have to...but the pony was invented for a reason, can't trump it,. Buy one or make one....but have one.

I want one.

I've been using Weldood Gel Contact Cement for about 6 years now...and I'm not even interested in trying anything else. Since I use it every day, all day long, I keep the brush in a bottle of mineral spirits (open top) and just wipe with a paper towel when I go to use it..... If someone's is having trouble with this stuff, they're doing something really wrong.....

Mine had some band-aids and home made parts when I got it too....I had Bob at Toledo Industrial give it the once over and it's running great now.

I was told the G means it was made in Great Britain.

Thanks Aaron, I'll give them a try.

Are the two prong needles still the best thing to use when lacing? I haven't done lacing in a long time and the needles I have are kinda rusty and don't clamp on to the lace anymore...before I buy some new ones I want to make sure I'm buying the best thing out there. Thanks!

I'd be very interested in USA made heel bar buckles, nickle and brass. But surprisingly enough I get very few requests for roller buckles. And I would also need to buy in small quantities, about a month's worth.

Paul, that's definitely a method I'll have to try, thanks!