MikeG

I love the purse! As for your photographs, download a copy of the freeware "Irfanview." Open your picture and use "enhance colors" > "gamma correction." You can bring up the detail in a picture that's almost too dark to see. This is the BEST little image software I've used. And it's FREE!! Give it a try. If you like my tip, how about letting me come visit you for a couple of days and teach me something about leather? :biggrin:

I know that if you punch any holes before you dye a project, the holes show up, as it's hard to get dye down into the holes. If you dye first and then punch the holes, they are much less visible.

AWESOME helmets! But is that a hood ornament from a '63 Buick?

Beautiful work! Without the second picture, I would never have guessed how fine it is. Way cool! No worry about any competition from here; even if my eyes were good enough, my fingers is wayyy too big!

Great responses, and I thank you all! In sum, if you are "serious," a business name is good for recognition, and the benefits are the tax writeoffs and wholesale purchasing benefits. The downside seems to be almost entirely the paperwork. Yet, that may not be a downside if it forces me to track my credits and debits. Otherwise, I could go for years thinking I'm doing well without really ever knowing what it costs me to make something versus what I can sell it for. For my own purposes, I think being forced by the business rules to do something I should anyway might be a hidden benefit. Plus, it will tend to keep me focused on making things instead of sitting in front of the boob tube. I'm leaning toward going for it -- now all I have to do is come up with a catchy name! Thanks, -- Mike

Interesting - I've always let my projects dry thoroughly (overnight) on the form, but that might be because I work so slow . . . I went back & checked "The Art of Making Lether Cases" by Stohlman, and his instructions say to let the leather "thoroughly dry." When I make a case, it is usually pretty flimsy until the back is stitched on and then the entire case gets its strength. I've never had anything lose its shape during the finishing so that it didn't come out the way I wanted it to, though. Luke, I will have to try working something without letting it dry & see how that goes. It would certainly speed up a project.

The Maker's Stamp thread got me thinking: I'm a beginner and haven't sold or marketed yet, but I'm leaning that way. The question is -- As a hobby business, what are the pros and cons of a business name? If you have a business name, do you have to get a phone number and bank account in that name? If not, how do you use the business name? Do you have to register the name? I went to my County Clerk and they were surprised I wanted to bother. They gave me a form to send to the state (Tennessee), but said unless I did a certain threshold of business, I could do business using whatever name I wanted without bothering to register it. I'd kind of like to have a business name, but not if it becomes more trouble than it's worth. Thanks for your comments!

Tell him you're going to post his name for the rest of us. . . . . .

me, too? I think the seat you said "the boss rejected" had the lacing over the logo? Other than that, it was totally awesome! Killer work. Makes me want to buy a bike just for the seat!

Oops - sent the same message twice - can't seem to delete this so just disregard.

I'm really interested in how to seal the inside of leather bottles and mugs. Does the wax do well in summer heat (90 to 100 degrees F)? I've experimented with epoxy resin with mixed results. The manufacturer rep for the stuff I used said even though it is not certified as food grade it is safe. Leaves a lingering question if you want to sell the bottles, though. Epoxy seals the bottle well and will tolerate alcohol, but it leaves the bottle rock hard and turns it very dark. It was fine for one of my bottles, but ruined the lighter design on another one. Your bottle has a very pleasing shape - I like it very much. Good work!

Doggone it! And here I am getting fictional money for real work!! :scratchhead:

It DOES look great! I live in Manchester, about 30 miles from Lynchburg; I was just hoping to find another leather crafter nearby. Keep up the great work! -- Mike

Do you live near Lynchburg or just like JD?

I don't know if this will help, but there's a nice thread on basketweave lacing under the sewing forum here.

From a newbie: I really like "clean" work and yours is beyootiful! I had to search out your other seats; they are also works of art. To me a lot of carving can get pretty busy looking and even though I can be green with envy over the talent it takes, it's not always my favorite. Your work strikes a great balance with "white space," not having to use every bit of the leather with your designs. WOW! I guess the bottom line is beauty is in the eye of the beholder and you should continue doing some of each. MAN, this forum has me drooling!

Hervey Garret Smith's "Marlinspike Sailor" has the best drawing and most understandable instructions I've ever seen for a running Turk's Head knot. This site has a reprint of the instructions: http://www.mikelucasyachting.co.uk/article...c_rope_work.htm

That needs to be in an upcoming movie! Just can't decide if she'll be the villain or the heroine. Either way - WOW!

Thank you, Ken. I have a couple of those lace cutters and until now thought I had been suckered into buying a cheap gimmick that didn't work. I'll read through your tutorial a few times and give it another try. -- Mike

Beaverslayer, could you explain the method you use to draw your lace? I've played about a little with various cutters and have had such limited success that I would be extremely hesitant to invest in a hide (although I know it would be much more economical). Thanks for your thoughts and hints. -- Mike

How about the reverse? I got into leather only because there was an estate sale and I figured I could get the Boy Scouts and my kids interested in a craft. Neither the woman nor I had a clue to what the stuff was worth; I was the only one who expressed any interest & so I got it. You guessed it, the Scouts didn't care, my kids weren't interested, and so everything remained in boxes until it got in my way & I either had to do something with it or get rid of it. About that time, the first and only leathercraft show was held in Rome, Ga. I met tons of folks & took a couple of workshops. Since then I've piddled around with it as a hobby. I haven't done any leatherwork for about 6 months now due to other "important" things, and the fact there is no one in my area to hang with. This site is great, almost like a family reunion where you're all related but don't know anybody. Because of you guys I'm getting really itchy to start back doing some leatherwork, just looking for the right project. I alternately feel guilty and blessed for how I got most of my tools & supplies. I know the only way I can make it up is to put this stuff to work & make beautiful things. This thread has also gotten me thinking. I know there are established leather schools -- I think maybe I might look into willing this stuff to one of them, and so to pass it on. By the way, if you avoid e-bay and check the yard sales and local sites, you might run across a deal -- here's one today for $100: http://nashville.craigslist.org/tls/467761536.html

They're gorgeous - wish I could do that kind of work! The only way I can see for you to improve is to make more!

Have you thought about making your own from a piece of metal pipe ground to an edge? If you need to make a bunch of them, it would be worthwhile. A plumbing shop might even put a file to the pipe while spinning it in a cutting machine to get the main shape for you very inexpensively. They could thread the other end for a cap to hammer on. Then you could do the final sharpening. I, too, cringe at the price of the leather punches. Good luck!

Thanks - I've been doing that with a Dremel cutoff tool, but perhaps I've just been a little too cautious about cutting too much off. I guess you also recommend using the mallet & anvil.

I've set rivets & snaps with the ol' mallet & anvil, but I have been looking for a better way (I tend to either not get them tight enough or I bend them). I also don't like the way the finished top of the snaps I install show the mark from the stem, deforming the nice round head. I asked a fellow from Tandy, and he told me this was normal, and had no solution to prevent that. Does anyone have any experience with the Standard setter or the Tandy model? Or is the mallet in fact the best way & I should forget the cost of a machine? My thoughts so far: Standard is expensive Tandy is expensive and you have to buy a different head for everything There is another machine called American Tag; don't know if it's a good tool or junk. http://cgi.ebay.com/SETTER-TOOL-GROMMET-EY...1QQcmdZViewItem Thanks for your comments.