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Everything posted by MikeG
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I did a bit of searching, and although there is a lot of information on HOW to mold leather, I didn't really find which leather is best for molding. I got into leatherwork by purchasing an estate that included a lot of leather that I've pretty much used up. I'm pretty happy with my molded cases and some free-form vases I've made, but I notice some leather forms much better than others. I need to purchase some material for a couple of projects. One project will be covering a horseshoe, another will be a free-form vase. I suspect it will be an on-line purchase, so what will I want to get? Certainly veg-tan, but what about weight? And what cuts mold best? Thanks for any recommendations, and I hope to be able to post something in the show-off section sometime! -- Mike
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A Decent Pair (Please Critique)
MikeG replied to mikey's topic in Shoes, Boots, Sandals and Moccassins
I also think your shoes reflect very high quality. I had to look closely to see where you wanted to improve the uppers. Are you trying to mold the leather directly to your foot? If so, perhaps you could try making a mold using plaster or a molding material. Then you could smooth out the mold before trying to mold your leather to it. This would be pretty labor intensive and not suitable for production, though . . . I would be more than delighted with what you are currently doing. I'd be interested in what you come up with. Mike -
Bushcraft-Style Sheath For Fällkniven F1
MikeG replied to Edvin's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Beautiful work! Looks well thought out. The edges look great! I notice you don't have a tie down slot - do you find your customers like a tie down or don't really care for it? -
I'm having an issue with the site. When I go to the forums, after about 2 seconds the page refreshes to show only the advertising displays at the top of the page. I can only get to the forums if I move quickly and open a forum before the page refreshes. I'm using Firefox. Not having this issue with other forums. Thanks, Mike Name: Mike Gold UserName: MikeG IP Address: 97.81.129.101 Email Address: goldmg86@gmail.com
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I was at a craft fair recently where one booth showed bowls sealed with "heated walnut oil." That got me to thinking about sealing mugs & bottles again and wondering if I want to try using a heated "salad bowl finish." So many options . . . . but if you think about it, there is a significant difference between putting damp lettuce in a bowl and putting it on the table versus filling a leather bottle with liquid and carrying it around for several hours. I initially did not like the epoxy because it made my bottle rock hard. After using the beeswax, I was surprised how hard that left the leather, and left me feeling better about epoxy. I think it's going to boil down to what you like and what you are comfortable marketing. One website advertises as follows: "Because of European strict hygienic laws and rules we sell this item as a decoration. Usable from ancient times to the Middle ages." I'm guessing this protects the seller but will not deter most purchasers from using the bottles. The safest solution from a seller standpoint looks to be covering glass bottles. My take on a long discussed and disputed issue. -- Mike
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Thank you for the nice comments and encouragement. I used beeswax for the outside, and 50/50 beeswax and brewer's pitch on the inside. I have used epoxy, and I went through all the "food grade" thing. One manufacturer's rep told me "food grade" requires a bunch of regulatory paperwork and increases liability, so no one wants to certify their products as "food grade." It makes sense, since I understand "food grade" 5 gallon pails and 5 gallon paint pails are made of the same materials and come off the same line. It is my opinion you will not find anything that says "food grade." The little bottle of love potion no. IX was lined with Envirotex and has had rum in it with no apparent issues. The tutorial for the mug is pinned in the historical and reenactment forum here. It's well worth a read even if you don't make a mug, as there is discussion about the sealing. I purchased Frank Zigon's book for the bottles. I will try a resist & see if that will work, but since you are immersing the leather, the liquid wax might seep in around it. I think some folks paint the design with acrylic, but I haven't tried it. I almost wonder if the muted design might be more in keeping with the period look anyway. I'm sort of mixed on that.
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I haven't been doing anything leather for quite some time. My first attempts at leather work for a long time are some leather bottles and and a mug using angsters tutorial. The mug and bottles turned out well. I need a lot of work on doing designs and color. I tried coloring only the design, knowing the beeswax will darken the leather, but the design still doesn't "snap" like I would like. I hope you can see the pictures, having a senior moment trying to upload them. -- Mike http://i548.photobucket.com/albums/ii339/miketenn/P9160031.jpg
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Molded Phone Case
MikeG replied to Dirck's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
Nice small case! Are you trying to gouge the leather for your stitching? Since you are wet forming, have you thought about "molding" a stitch groove using something like a dull chisel or even the edge of a windshield wiper insert or a stiff wire and stamping your groove into the leather? I've never used horse butt, guess I'll need to look into it! -- Mike -
As I begin to plan for retirement, I am offering this immaculate No. 9 stitcher for your consideration. It has very little use and has been kept clean and oiled. It has a 2 horsepower clutch motor, a hand wheel (not the knuckle duster) and a roller guide. It is mounted on a very nice heavy duty steel frame and carpeted plywood base. This machine looks and operates it did when it was new. I am located in middle Tennessee and will deliver to Nashville or Chattanooga. I am not interested in shipping it, as is is very heavy and would likely be prohibitive. There are no freight trucking companies in my immediate area. $3,500 firm. mgmgtenn<at>gmail.com
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Not something I can use, but it looks like a good deal for somebody. It's about 35 miles from me & I could store it if you needed time to come get it: http://nashville.craigslist.org/tls/1181664814.html
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I think a must see / Holster
MikeG replied to jbird's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Great looking set! Can you post a picture of the back side of the holster? I'm curious just how it fastens. Thanks! -
Nice job there, Luke! I like that border tool and how you fit your monogram in at the bottom.
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Kevin, I can just see you now in the store buying L'eggs! "and what size does your wife wear?" "Oh, no, they are for me when I do my sewing."
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Let me introduce myself
MikeG replied to John D Dennehy's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Where do you get the miniature guns? So cool!! -
I'd be interested in knowing if this type mask is totally for display or if people actually wear them? If so, how do you put a strap or other retainer on? Great work! Yes, if you can find a prettier model, they would display better. Until you find that female mannequin, maybe you could do a self portrait?
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Welcome! I'm pretty new to the leatherwork, too; but I have learned one thing, and that is how to sharpen tools. I signed up for my first leatherworking class and before I went I sharpened all my tools. When I was trying to cut out a pattern, the instructor said "You look like you're having trouble, can I see your knife?" I handed him my knife and he said "this is horrible, do you mind if I sharpen it?" Anyway, I discovered at that first class that if you are going to do leatherwork, your tools have to be surgically sharp. Now I even sharpen new scalpel blades. Sharp tools are a joy to use, just keep your fingers out of the way! Have fun and enjoy the learning process! Looking forward to seeing your work on the board!
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I do the same thing, and I use the glass as a platform for sharpening tools with fine grade wet/dry sandpaper. Works great!
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OK TwoCrow, you do this for PRACTICE? I have a lot of those tools if you are needing more practice. . . . If not, how did you get started doing this? Or, to cut to the chase, how do I do this? I may have to catch the next flight out to wherever you are and bring a six pack & spend a couple of days. Good looking work -- I want to do that, too!! Mike -- Jealous in Manchester, TN
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This vase was made using Cheryl Smeja's methods. The band around it is a leather bracelet I made in a class with Rene Berends. The vase needed something, the bracelet was handy & it was a match.
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Sorry, just couldn't resist
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Look for a lever action punch that gives you a mechanical advantage. They look something like this: I have had one for quite a while now and use it regularly to punch leather that would crush the sheet metal punches. I haven't been able to bend it yet. With my advancing arthritis, it is also much easier to use. I bought mine off e-bay for something like fifteen bucks.
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Love the designs - I especially like the fish, as that is a local theme. The colors on all these look right at home on the leather, too. Stelmackr, on items like your eagle, do you do any tooling, or do you just swivel knife the lines and then color? Pip, I, too would like the ISBN. As I do searches for this type of art I find it fascinating that the Caribbean and Polynesian art is so similar to the NA Indian. I guess they got out a lot more than I seem to these days!
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Those should sell like hotcakes, Kevin! I really like the unique liners you keep coming up with!
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Cool - can you show how it works? (No parley vous)