MikeG

Thanks, Richard. I have always made wood forms. Your idea of stacking leather scrap is brilliant! I'm going to look for some suitable clips on my next outing. I tend to overthink everything, I appreciate the confirmation. Now to get to work . . . .

I have an order for a horizontal phone case. I have never made one and I have a couple of concerns.; hoping someone can help me. 1. On vertical cases, I use a simple spring belt clip, but the ones I have are too long for a horizontal case. I am concerned shorter clips might not be secure enough. I've been thinking of some type of decorative clips that can be exposed on each end, or belt loops (perhaps a single wide belt loop) if the customer agrees. 2. If the phone case is horizontal, especially with belt loops, wouldn't this put torque on the phone? Seems like each end of the phone will need to be away from the body. This would have the tendency to flop around and/or hang on things. (construction worker) 3. Seems like with a horizontal phone case the flap would be annoying, since it is so long. Or the flap could be molded and "hinged" to the case with a thin piece. --- or the phone could come out the front and not the top, which seems to me would make a more secure holster. Perhaps I am overthinking this - I hope so. I've scouted around for examples but not seen anything other than the factory made

The search button in the top right corner is your friend. There is an amazing amount of information on this site and most anything you can think of has already been discussed. You probably want to look at the Billy 2Shews method. You can find a free demonstration of his technique on YouTube for transferring photocopies to leather. Other than that, you can do laser engraving, which gets expensive. Good luck and welcome aboard!

I love the liner - can you tell me what material it's made of? I can't imagine it is canvas or paper. In any case, it's a beautiful application.

I like your videos, but is there a way to slow them down? At my age my eyes and brain cannot keep up. Good work!

Thank you all for the kind words. This project was challenging, trying to design the sheath to include the sharpening stone, fire starter and compass. It is designed as a scout carry with the belt strap removable. The straps are fastened with Chicago screws, so the hand can be swapped. I struggled with black dye rub off and reviewed these forums extensively. In the end, I will now be using Angelus Pro Black for any future black finish. Again, thank you all for the nice responses. We are looking forward to watching the graduation ceremony. The knife is a Steel Will Druid. No, I got one that actually writes. BTW, thanks for the patterns and for the help & support you have provided to me through this forum.

Thanks! First thing I've been brave enough to post on these forums.

Graduation present for a new Marine.

Fun! nice work.

There is a DVD on leather jewelry by Rene Berends that uses this technique. I posted a link to it below. It basically involves gluing different leathers together and then cutting at an angle to get the different "plies" to show. The angle of the cut and the thicknesses of the individual layers gives a different effect. When I attended his class (years ago), we used different colors to make a simulated gemstone. In one of your pictures it appears all the layers were made of the same leather. Good luck! https://www.etsy.com/listing/275248532/leathercraft-dvd-making-leather

I'm still looking forward to the first time one of my projects comes out exactly like I had envisioned and intended!

No good answer, but following this thread. I recently had the exact same issue using Fiebing's USMC black on a knife sheath. When I first dyed it and buffed it, some of the black came off, and I dyed it a second time. I carefully avoided buffing it too hard, and it was totally black. I applied neatsfoot oil, and a lot of the black came off. The result was a nice reddish dark brown around the edges. Really a nice rustic finish, but unfortunately not for a Marine knife sheath. I started over. dyed twice, let it dry overnight, carefully and lightly buffed it, and very carefully applied leather sheen. It seems to have worked, I cross my fingers the black wont rub off with use. Next time, vinegaroon.

Thank you - the ad was 16-38 and I didn't look closely. With my eyes, it might not have mattered.

Ran upon a Singer 16-38 for sale. ISMACS http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-1-99.html shows a 16-37, then skips to a 16-39. I cannot find anything to give me any indication of what this machine was designed for. Not sure if it's worth a 3 hour round trip to go look at it. Have any of you heard of this machine? Thanks!!

"Made a belt pouch to hold 12 ga shells for my friend’s retirement party." -- Bet that's going to be one hell of a party! Nice job on the pouch!

Thanks for the replies. Wiz, my problem thread is "like a coil spring," so I have been considering replacing it. I have seen the socks but had forgotten about them - I will get some. I'm on my way to an order now. Thanks!!

Not wanting to hijack another thread, I am starting a new one. In a recent thread about unbalanced stitching, Wizcrafts made this comment: "Keep an eye on the thread as it unwinds from the spool. Follow the thread as it makes its way to the top tensioner disks. Watch for any sign of binding as the thread comes of the spool. Watch out for twisting that forms loops and knots in the top thread. Either of these things will increase the top tension temporarily, causing the knots to move up." This exactly describes a problem I routinely experience. I am using a thread stand and the thread spools off from the top. What tricks or tweaks can help me avoid this problem?

Patterns are awesome. I honor anyone who is able and willing to share them. Nice bag!

Not mine, but I thought someone might have an interest: https://nashville.craigslist.org/atq/6177354827.html

Thanks for showing this. I've been wanting to do a fish, but really haven't translated it to leather. This gives me some good ideas. I like how it turned out.

The ideas on different feet make total sense now. Brian, thanks for the tip to keep from making needle marks. I totally would have missed that. Since it is a jump foot machine, I still might have an issue with the foot climbing up the edge. I will keep that in mind and do a follow up on this thread once I have made up some alternate feet.

Thanks - that is probably the best overall solution. I really was just wondering if I was missing something or doing something wrong. it is certainly not beyond my capability to make a new foot, I just need to get out there and do it. Appreciating all the responses and encouragement. Love this forum!

Unfortunately, my model predates that one. I checked with him and it would be cost prohibitive (for me) to modify it. It would have to be shipped to him to make the mods. Thanks, John. That is an interesting idea that had not occurred to me. I may give it a try. One of the great things about this forum is getting ideas that you had not considered yourself.

Thanks, Matt. For better or worse, I have a No. 9 stitcher. A beast of a machine, but probably not for this type of work. I have considered trying to come up with another foot, but there is nothing standard that I know of to fit it. I can find very little info on this machine. I have talked to the manufacturer-they are extremely nice, but all parts appear to be handmade (expensive and long lead time). It might be more economical long term to trade machines.