ToddB 68

Hi All ! I found the answer to my question in post #1 on the Internet. So answers are not really needed now, however, if you have comments, feel free. If you are interested in the subject, it's my pleasure to share the information. Just click-on the following address: http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/leather/hl.html Thanks for viewing and I hope you can use the information. ToddB 68

Hi Leatherworkers ! I'm making my own strop and have a board with handle finished and ready to glue-on the leather. I have veg-tanned cowhide and would like to cut a strip of this and process it into simulated horse-butt if that is possible. Can you recommend a process that could be done by the average leatherworker hobbyist ? Thanks, ToddB 68

Hi All ! When I suspect my new post will be long and might exceed the LW program time allowance, I do a draft on WordPad and then save it in my Documents folder, then copy & paste to the new post window. Well, I had the draft below completed back on 3-14-2014, but couldn't get it to copy & paste to a new post window, either by using the tools provided on the window, or by using regular copy & paste methods (highlighting, right-clicking for a drop-down of tool options, etc.). I still couldn't copy & paste today, so just gave up and decided to re-type the whole post over again below. I find great pleasure in writing new stuff, but if it's long, I don't like " re-inventing-the wheel ".. .....guess I'm losing some of my patience at age 73 ! See my post below. ToddB 68 ______________________________________________________________________________ 3-14-2014 Subject: PROPER LEATHER "TEMPER" WHEN TOOLING Dear Friends, I was on page #3 (as of 3-14-2014) of the pinned topic "casing leather", by hidepounder (Bob Park), located here > Leather Board > How Do I Do That ? forum. I had read down this thread page and after finishing northmount's post #44, , I noticed the hyperlink "moistening while tooling" at the bottom and clicked on it. That took me to the "Carving Days" thread started by Randle P. McMurphy, June 28, 2012 at the "Tooling, Stamping & Carving Leather" board > "Floral and Sheridan Carving" forum. After reading down the first page of "Carving Days", my interest and curiosity were particularly aroused by posts #4 and #9 by username kseidel (Keith Seidel). I thought these posts were very well written by-the-way, as he explained the importance of creating and maintaining proper leather "temper" when tooling. Of course, reduced to simple terms, "temper" means hardness or softness. I'm working with 12oz veg-tanned cowhide and plan to do some creasing and stamping after casing the leather in accordance with Bob Park's tutorial mentioned above. (QUESTION at this paragraph) : Since I'm just getting started in Leatherwork and haven't actually done any creasing or stamping, could someone explain to me what evidence I should watch for to determine that the leather needs more water , i.e. color, feel or other manifestation ? My project doesn't doesn't require much tool work, so I might be able to complete all of this tool work in a single session before more water is required. Nevertheless, I would like to have prior knowledge before starting. Thanks in advance for the help. ToddB 68

northmount, I'm trying to make sure I get this straight. In your post #15, re using Mop & Glo as an edge finish, please clarify,.... do you mean no wax, no edge dye and sometimes no gum trag are used, i.e. do you mean none of these three are used prior to applying the M&G ? ToddB 68

Northmount and Viewers, Click-on the attachment to see my post. The original post I submitted was the same text, but for some reason the website program displayed it with all the codes for paragraph spacing, italicizing, quotation marks and emoticons (Smileys), etc....messy looking ! So I saved to WordPad, made corrections, filed in Documents folder and attached here. (I saved to WordPad right away, to make certain it didn't vanish, which has happened on previous occasions.) ToddB 68 Post on 4-6-2014 to northmount at Leatherworker..rtf

northmount, I've been pondering the caution you included in post #10, i.e. "I would be careful of how waxy the burnished edge is as most finishes don't like to stick to wax." As you might recall, I will be following the "Finishing Edges" seven-step process by Bob Park (hidepounder) and it involves the application of Fiebing's glycerin bar soap at step #3 and yellow paste saddle soap at step #4, as well as common paraffin at step #6. These three products are applied by either rubbing-in well, burnishing, or a combination of burnishing and polishing with a soft dry cloth respectively. Do you think if I just apply a modest amount of paraffin at the polishing step #6 and then burnish and polish with a soft dry cloth, that the Mop & Glo will adhere well ? Below is the most relevant part of the definition for paraffin, that I got from Merriam Webster online, copied here for reference. (So your caution was/is very apropos !) Paraffin : " a waxy crystalline flammable substance obtained especially from distillates of wood, coal, petroleum or shale oil that is a complex mixture of hydrocarbons and is used chiefly in coating and sealing, etc., etc.." Thanks in advance Tom, for your reply to my above question. ToddB 68

northmount, Hi Tom ! ........Thanks for the feedback on Mop & Glo .........and the caution about applying to waxy edges. ToddB 68

Tom, Many thanks for the Mop & Glo information in your post #8. Have you used it on leather edges before ? Did you like it's performance ? ToddB 68

Red Cent, With reference to your post #6, have you used the Mop & Glo product and do you still have the bottle ? If so, could you scan and attach a picture of the front so I can read the label ? That would identify the type for me. ( I didn't understand what product you were referring to when you said "It is a proprietary product. You may have to make contact." I guess you were referring to Mop& Glo, but not sure.). BTW, I think the product you "use often if an acceptable edge is accomplished is Fiebings Brown or Black Edge Enamel.", is shown in my attachment below. I got on the Zack White site and copied this image of Fiebing's Edge Enamel (4oz) part number C23604 and his description was "A heavy bodied resin based edge finish. Best when applied after smoothing the edges to produce a clean, smooth glossy edge. Edge enamel can be thinned with water. Stocked in Black (01) and Brown (02)." However, his minimum order for product is $15.00 and Standard Shipping to my Zip Code is $14.00, for a total of 29.00.....too costly for a beginner like me. Thanks anyhow for the suggestion. So, back to the questions in my first paragraph.....what say you ? Appreciate your help ! ToddB 68

Red Cent, I appreciate the explanation of your process as conveyed in post #4, but as indicated in my post #3, I am just asking which type of Mop & Glo you were previously suggesting. There are many different types, each chemically designed for a specific task. You can Google "Mop & Glo" and click-on a Link and see the product display, to see what I mean. In your previous post #4, you mentioned an acrylic product #250 from Zack White, but didn't know the exact name off hand. So I spent quite a bit of time going through Zack's sub-categories, down-loading and attaching (6) pictures (The 6th "Fiebing's Leather Sheen" didn't upload correctly.) below of what I thought might be possibilities for you to look at and then advise which one, if any, of these is what you were referring to (Sorry for that mouthful ). Thanks for the continued help and I look forward to your reply. ToddB 68 Fiebings-Leather-Sheen-4-oz--C25704_p_2011.htm

Red Cent, Thanks for your feedback on Fiebing's Dura Edge ! I take it you're not real enthused with it. I'm new to leatherwork and have the leather as well as all tools and supplies needed to make my first project, a sheath, except I'm still trying to decide on a final finish for the leather edges. I plan to follow Bob Park's "Finishing Edges" process, except I will be substituting Black Vinegaroon instead of spirit or oil dye at step #5.. Initially, I was all set to use LCi's Neat Lac (Now Clear Lac) at step #8 until I discovered how much it would cost for the product + shipping........too pricy for this beginner ! I've already spent quite a bit for all the stuff purchased to date. So I've been looking for an alternative final edge finish that can be applied overtop of Black Vinegaroon and provide similar qualities of Clear Lac, i.e. toughness, good adhesion, flexibility without cracking or flaking and gloss anywhere between semi to high-gloss. Also, I would prefer a clear final finish, but black would be acceptable so long as it still meets the aforementioned qualities. I've noticed several members, including yourself, who have recommended Mop & Glo as a final leather edge finish, but didn't say what type. So I have posted the question to them and to yourself. See my post #14 to you here > The Business board > Getting Started forum > My thread "Should I Seal Vinegaroon on The Edges ?" . There are quite a few Mop & Glo products, each chemically designed for a specific purpose. See more information in my post #14. Thanks for your help ! ToddB 68

Greetings ! I guess the Topic Title conveys what I need........ Thanks, ToddB 68

Mudruck, With reference to your post #5, dated March 21, 2014, what type of Mop & Glo do you use over the Vinegaroon ? I Googled "Mop & Glo" and the Link I clicked on showed quite a few different types of mop & glo . Thanks, ToddB 68

Hi jackd942 With reference to your post #10, March 05, 2014, what type of Mop & Glo do you use ? I Googled "Mop & Glo" and after clicking on a Link, the displayed images showed quite a few different mop & glo products. Thanks ! ToddB 68

Hi Red Cent ! With reference to your post #12, dated Jan. 22, 2014, what type of Mop & Glo ? I Googled "Mop & Glo" and after clicking on the Link, I saw many different types pictured. Thanks, ToddB 68

Regarding Saddle lac, I just checked three links on the Internet and they are only selling in a 13oz Spray can (no small plastic bottle, quart or gallon.) and after adding Shipping to the product, the lowest total cost was $23.00 @ Hideaway Leather. Scruggs Farm was next in line with a total cost of $23.64 and e-Bay seller Livestockconcepts (#17551) had a very high feedback percentage of 99.8%, but came in last with a total cost of $25.09. Admittedly, not a lot of difference between these three. Also, I used my Ohio zip code to get shipping cost, so total cost could vary depending your location. That's my little search and you may find different results at other sources. ToddB 68

Bobby, Thanks for your reply ! Not being familiar with the early western Slim Jim holster designs prior to the advent of the California and Mexican loop holsters, I had to read your reply over several times, but finally "connect-the-dots" and got a mental picture of what you were saying........then I went looking on the Internet and found the attached photo at this link: www.cochiseleather.com ToddB 68

Hi folks ! I'm just curious, what is the purpose of single, or Mexican-Style double loops on handgun holsters ? My guess would be the loop(s) allow you to remove the gun and case w/o having to remove your entire gun belt. That way, the gun finish is protected. Are there other reasons ? Seems like the Mexican style Double-Loop would be more secure, especially if you are toting a heavy-weight handgun. Thanks for any replies you care to make ! ToddB68

DavidL, I know this isn't a book, but have you looked at Nigel Armitage's U-Tube Videos ? If he hasn't made one for the exact leather project you are looking for, check the videos by other leatherpros, usually stacked on the right side of the screen. Here's the address I have on my Favorites list: Nigel Armitage - You Tube (You can either hyperlink it or copy to your search engine.) If you've never looked at Nigel's videos, you're In for a nice surpise ! ToddB 68

paprhangr , Contact LCi, the manufacturer of "Clear Lac", which is the same as their "Top Coat #200", and ask for Mayra. She should be able to recommend the right product from their line to meet your requirements. Top Coat #200 is the same as Clear-Lac. Clear-Lac is the product name for LCi shoe-repair distributors. You can also visit their website, www.leathercoatings.com/ and browse the different products to familiarize yourself with the qualities and performance of each. LCi sells wholesale, so ask Mayra for the name of a retailer near you. BTW, she said (paraphrasing) that I should not have to pay any extra charges for shipping this product. Although it is a "haz-mat", in a small container it does not require the extra haz-mat fee imposed by either FedEx or UPS ground and should ship "Consumer Commodity ORM-D" which the supplier/shipper ought to know. In view of the above, if your retailer is attaching a high S&H charge to the product, I would question that. Leather Coatings, Inc. (800) 821-3158 Toll Free Cheers ! ToddB68

Greetings Leatherworkers ! I was looking at the LCi website : www.leathercoatings.com and didn't see "Clear Lac" listed in any of their product categories. Here are the categories shown on the website : Main | Protective Coatings | Pigmented Coatings | Dyes & Stains | Sealers | Dressings & Conditioners | Edge Dressings | Cleaners | Cement | Thinners What category would I click-on to see a description that applies to Clear Lac ? Thanks ! ToddB68

Hi NVLeatherWorx ! Thanks for your reply #18. I have a wood shop and have been thinking of making my own wooden slicker. Do you know of any domestic hardwood that would give reasonable service ? Or should I stay with an exotic like cocobolo, rose wood, etc. ? Or should I opt for wool felt ? ToddB68

Sleez and any others interested in Making Your Own Stitching Pony, The You Tube video I was referring to at the bottom of my previous post can be seen by entering the following caption into your search engine window (omit quotation marks) and activate your search button. " How to Make a Leatherworkers Clamp or Stitching Pony, by Harry Rogers " Then click-on this same caption at the top of the links page. BTW, I would have included a hyperlinked address, but the hyperlinker and several other things on this website don't work for me, although I have no problems at any other websites. Good Luck ! (making your own.) ToddB68

Hi Sleez ! I just thought of the few following things and I'm sure others can add more. VIDEOS: If you haven't already, look at the Nigel Armitage series of YouTube Videos .......indispensable IMHO. There are lots of great videos by Nigel, but three of my favorites are Sharpening a Saddlers Awl, Saddle Stitch and Saddle Stitch in Detail. You can just Google his name and then click-on the link at the top. You will learn a lot from his videos and personally, I think he is a very good speaker and demonstrator. Other home-made video producers lack skills that are manifested by one of the following: #1) Shaky camera, poor shot angles and proper lighting on the subject, #2) Camera operator mumbles or doesn't speak loud enough (or has incorrect volume setting.), just to name a few things . BOOKS: Another recommendation would be to obtain the following books by Al Stohlman. The ART of HAND SEWING and Leathercraft TOOLS. HONING YOUR CUTTING TOOLS: You can make your own Stropping block with a piece of hardwood (The block must be flat.) and a piece of leather of the same size glued to the block, rubbed and impregnated with jewelers rouge (or Valve grinding paste, which is carborundum grit with oil and is available at Auto Supply stores.) to keep your cutting blades keenly sharp. Any size of wood block that suits you will do. Although this type of stropping block is the standard among most leathercrafters, you could get by with sheets Slicon Carbide sandpaper layed on a flat surface. In the finer grits, it is commonly referred to as "wet or dry paper" and usually comes in grits of 200 very fine, 320 extra fine, 400 super fine, 600 ultra fine, 1500 mirror fine and even finer grades. STITCHING PONY: If you are interested in making your own Stitching Pony, there is a great set of plans in The ART of HAND SEWING . Also, I saw a good video showing step-by-step how to make one, using left-over cut-offs of hardwood flooring lumber but I'll have to find it again on the internet. Let me know if interested. OK, that's my two cents for now. Keep searching resources on the Internet and asking questions here......that's a couple of good ways to learn ! Good Luck ! ToddB68

Terry, Thanks for your kind words of concern. I just sent an e-mail to hidepounder (Bob Park) to get his comments and opinions on Randy's suggestion; second opinions never hurt. My hope is to find an alternate product for leather edge finishing that is not only less cost (price + shipping) but also performs well. Adiós Amigo