kidbeey

I have been replacing the sewing thread in those tiny bobbins for sometime now. Yesterday, I changed to a slightly larger thread, but one I know is suitable for the machine and which sews perfectly. Tonight, when I renewed the bobbin thread it does not want to pick it up from below, despite many attempts. I am doing it as per the manual and as I have previously done. Any suggestions?

I had some scrap timber lying around and the other day decided to make a table. Here is the finished project.

My new shuttle carrier (82177), an engraved Singer part, arrived today and I installed it straight away. To my delight the machine sewed beautifully with no more broken threads. I did have to do a minor adjustment to thread tension but that was all. Attached are photos of the old shuttle carrier, where you will note that the dome on the shuttle carrier spring is worn a bit flat and there are some ridges on the underside of the carrier as well. I am very happy as the next step was to take it to a sewing machine mechanic. The cost was around AUD 52-00 for the new part. Hope this post may help others that have threads breaking in the shuttle area.

Thanks for replying GrampaJoe. The plaited length is about 5 foot. i do not know what you called the leather in the USA but here is a description from a tannery:- "Red Hide Colours :- Red! Weight Range :- 3mm 4.5mm Description :- An Alum based tanned leather that is traditionally dyed red in colour. Heavily oiled to provide a softer more durable product. Used when a low stretch strong leather is required. Messy to work with as the red dye does continue to bleed out of the leather while being worked. (As it does when playing cricket.) Ideal for whips, plaiting, reins, repairs etc." The tannery I got it from years ago, got closed down due to enviromental controls as the suburbs grew into their area. They used to import a chemical from India that they added to the tanning process. Their redhide skins were favoured by whipmakers because the leather had a bit more stretch in it.

My grandson who is ten years old, asked if I could make him a whip. I have not made a whip for about 25 years and only had an old hide that was around 40 years old. So I went down to the workshop and came up with the article photographed below. It is only a four strand whip and the handle is made of Toheti cane. To add a bit of extra weight to the handle for balance purposes, I turned a hardwood hand grip on my wood lathe, drilled in out and glued it over the handle. He is learning to crack it but gets frustrated. I told him it is all to do with the wrist action, but he is trying too hard and is yet to master it.

My old whipmaker friend used a three cornered file as a fid. He used the point which had been slightly modified as the fid and when he needed to tighten a strand, he grasped it between his fingers and file edge to get a good grip; it worked a treat.

Constabulary, I guess you have seen this article, where the guy put brass shimming to compensate for wear:- http://www.woodworkforums.com/video/Singer%2029K13.doc

That was a good find. If the machine is no good, the stand looks to be okay and seems very similar to the one on my 29K58.

I recently domed some copper rivets and ended up with a radial split on one edge of the dome. What did I do wrong? Also I have a Boker rivet setter. When using the hole that pushes the washer down to the leather it does not seat the washer tightly to the leather, and in fact, the washer springs back up. Could I be using a tool with a hole that is slightly too large?

Another question, if I may. When placing the shuttle into the machine is it okay to put the thread from the bobbin up through the needle plate and close the plate; or is this an absolute no no.

Thanks CD. Not sure of the thread size but I bought it from the boot repair supplier in my capital city. They know the machine well as there aresaid to be 1200 of them on the east coast of Australia.

Thanks Constabulary. I am thinking of getting the cost of a new shuttle carrier. I notice that when I have the needle plate open the thread seems to stick slightly on that round spring section. What is the purpose of that spring? Is it to hold the shuttle in place?

I bought a new shuttle (Towa) for my machine thinking it would improve its performance. The old shuttle sews reasonably well but when I put the new shuttle in, it will not sew an inch. As you can see in the attached photos the thread breaks in the shuttle area. To say the least, I find it very frustrating. Comparison photos of old and new shuttle are attached plus some stitching done by the old one. I have played with the tension spring on the new shuttle but without success. Even compared shuttle tension by pulling on the old and new shuttle's thread. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Very well done. When I have plaited herringbone in the past I did it with an uneven number of strands but you did it with an even number.

I pulled the head off the above machine. I am now putting it back together again. The problem I have is knowing how the cam runner (my description) that is attached to the slide bar and sits in the feed motion cam wheel. Now this cam runner is round with a flat spot on it. I assume the rounded part goes to the outside of the cam wheel and the flat spot sit on the inner part of the cam wheel. Can someone please confirm my thoughts.

Thanks for replying Constabulary. College Sewing seem to have cheaper parts. Who makes them for them? I think my bobbin case was made by this company in Japan http://www.towa-mfg.co.jp/seihin/bc_e.htm. It is a real precision part with a beautiful finish. I have heard that people who buy the Taiwanese made Boot Patcher and have sewing problems can solve them by buying a high quality shuttle. Thanks for your kind offer re the logos.

You really stripped it right down. I am interested to know how it sews when you have restored it. Also I wonder how you got the Singer labels looking so good. I have a 29K58 that works well but stitch length needs improving so I purchased a new Feed Motion Bell Crank Lever, gib and stitch regulator which I hope may solve the problem. I think I can change the Bell Crank Lever without taking the whole head assembly above the foot apart ie., by removing screws near the Revolving Bush Handle. I also purchased a new shuttle and was surprised how expensive it was at AUD $99. Apparently, parts like this are manufactured in Japan. Anyway keep us posted of your restoration progress.

The Singer Boot Patcher arrived a month ago and today I got a tanned kangaroo hide, a number of cane toad skins and an ostrich leg. I am going to stitch a key wallet using skin parts as a feature as I got some key bars as well. Apart from that I am short on ideas of small items to make in a creative way using the hides. Would appreciate any suggestions and photos. Also, I ordered some baby dots thinking they were the ones with the small wire spring in them but they are not the ones. What is the name of the press studs that have the small inner spring in one part of them?

Thanks Howie I did not know they existed. What do you buy from them? I am wanting high quality key bars. In the past they have pulled out and I have lost keys,

I owe a lot to the Stohlmans' as they taught me so much about leatherwork. I have pursued other interests and making a return to leather work once again. I wonder if these people are still living.

I am interested in getting the best quality hardware for my leatherwork projects. I know it may be a big question but who makes the best of the hardware and accessories?

I was wondering which state of the USA the abovenamed whip collector lived before he deceased. Was it Texas?

I am about to be a proud owner of the above machine built in the 1930's in Scotland. I have sourced a copy of the manual through the internet. I noticed that it has a special threading route for darning. What type of darning would that be and what type of material? If anyone uses this type of machine for darning I would very much like to hear about it and have a photo posted of a darned item.