rdb

Couple two new Pancakes. One lefty for a Glock, dark mahogany. One righty, for a 1911, two tone brown. Both from Horsehide. Formed to fit 3'oclock carry. 15 degree cant. Comments tell me they are most comfortable.

Welcome, Rick! Glad you found us. Maybe you see something wrong in these, but I sure don't. I Like the way they look, and are put together. I'll be looking forward to seeing more of your stuff.

It's been some 40 years since I made my last one, but hanging around the range lately, I met up with some SASS people. They're starting to look at my work. So...there may be a few more in the future. I forgot to chicago screw the bandelero down befor assembly...sheesh, so the screwbacks show...oh well, it's a feature!

No need to case. You may want to deglaze the surface.

Now, that's real leatherwork...good job.

Nice work. Your customer will be happy. I especially like the idea of the laced slot for the strapping!

Some of the bigger makers are using "Steerhide". Some are using steerhide, and calling "bullhide". A steer is a bull without a couple of things. Same difference. Steer is a stiffer hide than ordinary cow. Zack's has steerhide, and several belt makers use it, because it comes in 7 oz...which when glued back to back comes out to the 14 oz belt considered just the ideal weight for a carry belt.

Sorry for the delay in response, I had to do some errands today. Thanks all for sharing...good advice, too. Since I wrote this topic, I found boomstick's added commentary with pictures of his setup...it was exactly what i thought it would be. I ordered up some gum rubber today. One kink in the action, though, was my friend found a big industrial valve with wheel and screw setup...I think he is welding on some spokes and plates ( he gets off on stuff like this ) so I may be using a handpress setup. We'll see what he comes up with. Of course I'll post pix if he makes it. Denster, and his combination of tools intrigues me...press AND Vacuum...hmmm. But I still want to see everyones pictures of their setup, especially if you haven't posted them here before!

I've been doing a lot of holster and case work lately, so I'm in the market for a molding press. Building one is not out of the question, but finding time is hard. Northern Tool and Harbor Freight are my first resources to look at. I'm leaning towards the Aframe bottlejack 12ton, but the 10 ton with the air guage and handle off to the side looks good too. I always wanted a vaccuum set up, but I'm not sure it would work better than the presses. Hell, if I could find an old printing or wine press, they might work too. I've never seen any of these work for this kind of job, so I'm not sure the results of any of the methods. What's your setups, and or recommendations. If you have pictures of what they come out of the presses looking like, without additional hand boning, that would help me too. I did a search for this stuff on LW, but couldn't find too many discussions with my search criteria.

Got a kick out of seeing the "urban ranger" again, dmr. That belt was never more than a "flea market" type belt. I was doing small shows, and the ranger design was sort of a fad around here. It was never meant to be a carry belt, just an easily made, and inexpensive version. A lot of guys pawed over the ones I made, so it must have had the "look". But there are some reallly fine examples of them within the search function here on LW. The western makers here on LW have true quality and more historic design. Nice belt Dwight!

Deer would be my first choice too. You could take some lightweight 2/3-3/4 oz veg tan, cut a 1.5" strap from it , paint it those colors, then strip 1/4" straps from it...that might work

Welcome to the Forum, MrRedhawk. We'll definitely want to see the progress on your 44 project, so get to work!

yep, that's pretty much what i found...glad i helped

I just made the Stohlman 45 Frontier last week. I put in a partial welt (maybe halfway down the side) and lined it. I thought it seemed way too small. I compared it to Baird's holster pattern, and found the Baird one much bigger, too. This was all prior to actually seeing or holding the customers pistol. I brought it down to the range. The 45 went into it a bit tight, but after working it in an out with a little "grease", it settled in right fine. I'm sure it will loosen up even more with a little use. For a quicker draw, I will make it a shade bigger next time (like an 1/8"), but for fit and retention, it worked well. I haven't made all of Stohlman's, and it's usually a long time between making them, but when you wrote this Topic, it reminded me that I think I thought the same thing you did, everytime I made one of his...and yet, all of them worked.

Of course, "Search" is your best friend on LW. There are some fine examples here, but to design something new, I would think talking with the client about its usage, to be your best tool. There's no sense designing a bag to be 9" wide, when there's a wrench that is 10" long. Average would probably be 10/11" wide, a 12" bag just looks wrong on most bikes, to my eye. Some people never intend for the toolbag to hold tools, instead it may be used for personal items. There are the traditional round gussetts, u-shaped, or the squared. Some are lined with braided edges, some, sewn, or riveted, carved, stamped, or plain. I've seen all sorts of things used as gussets, including the logo shields of some manufacturers. Most bags are attached with straps on the back through slotted holes, and buckled inside the bag, positioned according to the fork spacing, or headlight position. Some have multiple slots positioned for horizontal, or vertical attachment, or multi-purposed to attach to sissy bar. Shock travel comes into play on some bikes. Having the bag bang on the front fender can ruin a paint job rather quickly. In some cases where positioning is hindered from headlights, etc., the bag is attached down below on the front of the frame under the voltage regulator I'ld say a half pint of bitters, and a chat would be the best start, along with actually seeing the bike, and taking accurate measurements . Good luck, I'm sure whatever you come up with will make the customer happy.

I'm betting it's this company. They look very good quality. http://www.ringelcustomknives.com/

I second Grey Ghost Graphics! Great guy, fast service, quality stamp.

I know Zack White's carries them, probably the others too, like Springfield leather, and Standing Bear's.

As of lately, and I can't explain it...maybe the economy, maybe supplier priorities...dunno, but I have not been happy with some orders I have made, or attempted to fill. OTB, for one, a wholesale supplier of note, has billed me for a small order, in excess of what I could buy through my usual leatherworking suppliers, and the freight charge was way in excess of what the over the phone guesstimate was told me. A price of $30 for a hundred .5" chicago screws, just don't seem right, especially from a source wholesaler! Maybe they went up when I wasn't looking, but, sheesh. So I'm not bad mouthin any company, cause maybe it's just me not paying attention, but if anyone knows of similar hardware wholesalers, I sure would like to compile a list of them to sample a few orders from. Anyone?

I've tried the hd ceramic magnets. They worked up until about 80mph. I also noticed they move on the tank...between the movement and the normal dust accumulation they will ruin a good paint job. You're probably much better off with just a normal leather tie off on front and bottom. If you mean by gluing the leather bib to the plastic/kydex stock type bibs, maybe...but never to a tank itself!

The first one shows what I call "Good figgerin'"!I like it a lot.I think you solved the problem. I like the second one, too. I'm not sure an IWb requires that little bit of adjustment, but it definitely gives the option. They always seem to find their own cant, but since I was wrong once or twice before...lol. I've also explored the laser design issue, and if I had one, or was nearer to the one I know about, I would definitely use it more, especially for just the reason you did. Not sure mixing the carving, and laser is the best approach, but it accomplished just what you wanted, and you worked it into the lines of the carving well. I'm sure the customers will be well pleased.

I like all of them, but the vblack and buckle is my favorite. simple and elegant, as ed santoro would say.

Pretty Spiffy! Skin looks good, Lining, too. Edges are great. Once again, nice job

North Carolina and BBQs goes without saying... Customer wanted 4 sheaths. He didn't want the nylon ones that come with the knife. So, just some simple leather ones here. 6/7 oz vegtan. I think my marbelizing technique is starting to come together. The knife clicks in right fine.

As usual, Great Job, Kevin! I like the flow of the whole thing, with the stripe running through. And as usual, I am amazed at the meticulous stitching. Some gnarly gearhead will say "that's the one"!