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Generally, just using my little cheapy drill press with a sanding drum gets rid of the glue. You might just be using too big a dollop near the edge, and not clamping the pieces together tight enough, such that the glue dries as a layer in between. As a sidenote, a gum eraser is a handy thing to have around. It'll remove all sorts of little things on the leather, like a spot of glue.

AWESOME!!! Except I know you're already working on a better one...if that's possible.

Hey, ramrod. Glad to see you found us. Asking questions teaches us all, so ask away, and don't forget to show us the stuff you make. There's lots of people here who showed us their first things, and we watch in amazement as they progress.

hey, welcome to LW, okie! We love looking at handmade knives and sheathes, so you'll fit right in. And a new website to boot...cool

First off, welcome!. There's enough here to learn, for everyone. E veryone wants tools at first. All you need is leather, a knife, a handmade awl, two harness needles, and a spool of thread. The most important thing to a leatherworker is his patterns. Not Tandy, or someone elses, your own. If you hae a vision of a bikers wallet, then design it up on paper. Work it up in cardboard, finally get some scrap leather, and mock one up.. Nevermind designs on the leather. If that's what you finally want to do, you'll get the necessaary tools then. Good luck, and hope we see pictures soon!

Thanks for the picture Steve. You need a better camera...lol. If that scratch is all there is to the defects, it sounds like a price bargain...

Welcome. Helen. Glad you found us. It shouldn't be long before you find all your Countrymen here, too

Great job!. There's something classic about them, can't explain. Keep on truckin' J.

Welcome abord!. You came to the right place! There's a lot of bike stuff here, so you'll find plenty of people to get along with. We hope to see pictures of yoir work.

Fact: There is a market for recycled leather goods, and products from natural death animals. You could see this easily on Etsy, and elsewhere. And yes, it is in fact these products run more money than usual, just like solar, hyvrids, etc.How big a market...dunno. Mr Siegel, being a good businessman, saw a possible niche market, took a chance, and offered a product to the makers. I want to thank him for trying to keep a stogdy industry moving forward. Either the makers on this board never knew about this end of the business, or just were't interested. Either way, now it's on sale. Welcome to American Capitalism. Mr Siegel's honesty may have hurt him. He said they were flawed. How badly, we ask??? We could call, I suppose, but If the pictures were better, we could SEE, FOR OURSELVES, the extent of damage. Actually, ALL the leather hide sellers should take note...BETTER PICTURES! In this day and age, this should be EASY! .I know for me, I am always leary of buying hides unseen. But, I have bought from Mr Siegel before, and the leather was exactly what he said it was. That being said, I still don't want one of those hides, unless I see a very clear picture of them. $80 is a very good price for a side. If a high percentage of the hide is good it could be a bargain.

As kids, we used to eat glue. Back then things were safer, not so much chemicals. Any who, here's some receipts from http://www.canteach.ca/index.html The library paste one sounds right, i think Glue & Paste Recipes Homemade Glue Ingredients: 3/4 cup water 2 tbsp. corn syrup 1 tsp. white vinegar 1/2 cup cornstarch 3/4 cup cold water Method: Mix water, syrup and vinegar in saucepan. Bring to a rolling boil. In small bowl, mix cornstarch and cold water. Add this mixture slowly to first mixture. Stir constantly. Let stand overnight before using. Waterproof Glue Ingredients: 2 packets (1/2 ounce) unflavored gelatin 2 tablespoons cold water 3 tablespoons skimmed milk few drops of wintergreen oil (optional) Method: In a small bow. sprinkle gelatin over cold water and wait until softened. Pour milk into a pot and bring to a boil. Pour into softened gelatin and stir until dissolved. Add wintergreen oil (acts as a preservative) if you would like to keep it for longer than a day. This is a good glue when you need to glue for objects other than paper. Homemade Paste Ingredients: 1/2 cup flour cold water Method: Add flour to a sauce pan. Add cold water until a thick cream forms. Simmer on stove for 5 minutes. Warning: This paste takes a long time to dry. Library Paste Ingredients: 1 cup flour 1 cup sugar 1 tsp. alum 4 cups water 30 drops of oil of cloves Method: Mix all ingredients in saucepan and cook until clear and thick. Remove from heat and add drops of oil of cloves. Clear Library Paste Ingredients: 3/4 cup rice flour 2 tablespoons sugar 3/4 cup cold water 2 1/2 cups boiling water 1/2 teaspoon oil of witnergreen Method: Mix rice flour, sugar, and cold water in a pan until smooth. Add boiling water and bring to a boil over low heat, stirring constantly, until mixture thickens. Remove from heat and add oil of wintergreen. Stamp Gum Ingredients: 1 packet (1/4 ounce) of unflavored gelatin 1 Tbs. cold water 3 Tbs. boiling water 1/2 tsp. white corn syrup 1/2 tsp. lemon or peppermint extract 2 drops boric acid solution Method: Sprinkle the gelatin into the cold water and wait until softened. Pour softened gelatin into the boiling water, stirring until dissolved. Add the remaining ingredients and mix well. When ready to use brush a little to the area that you would like it and let dry. When you need it to stick, moisten it a bit. If the gum dries up in your storage container, just scoop it out into a saucepan and heat it again. Envelope Mucilage Ingredients: 6 tablespoons pure white vinegar 4 packets (1 ounce) unflavored gelatin 1 tablespoon peppermint extract Method: Pour vinegar in a pot and bring to a boil. Add gelatin and stir until completely dissolved. Add peppermint extract and stir until thoroughly mixed.

Not saying good or bad, but Tandy is running a Web Special through the 13th. This set can be had for $599. $400 OFF!

Welcome Butcher! Sounds like quite a Family history. Good on You! You've come to the right place. Pull up a chair, and start working. First thing is pictures of the shop, then the stuff you make....lol

This is still my Favorite!!

There is no need to buy any programs....ask the great oracle google..."open source". Also google ."replace windows programs open source" This is a pretty good list, strangely missing antivirii programs, but good for the others: http://itmanagement.earthweb.com/osrc/article.php/3877196/75-Open-Source-Tools-to-Replace-Apps-You-Use-Every-Day.htm AVG works well both free and paid Comodo for the firewall Add Spybot alongside Malwarebytes...they both find things the other doesn't

In Massachusetts, we called it Tonic, not soda, not pop, not fizzy drink. It was Tonic, until you got closer to NY, and into Conn, then it became Soda. NOBODY in the USA called it Tonic accept us. Having been a Carbonic Engineer (Soda Jerk) in my younger days, I get where we called it tonic. Coke syrup, was a staple at the pharmacy, even prescribed by doctors for young children ills. The other local bottled drink was Moxie. Coke and Moxie were the biggest drinks available in the 5 cent vending machines. Both of them had been sold in the pharmacies as Tonics...for what ailed ya.

Thanks, all. Deb, glad you found it easy to get around. We worked a lot on navigation. I didn't want anyone to not know where they were. There's still a few pages that ain't quite there yet. As product list grows, that'll be important. When something is bought, you only leave the site for a page to enter the cc# at Authorize.net, but you come right back. Ken, You're probably right. And I will do as you suggested, a while later. I'm not sure I like the gallery software being used, but I haven't explored enough of them yet, to decide on a final one.

My new website is now live. Just starting with a few products to begin with, but we'll add as time goes on. And not just the current genre... kate@studio2-dawgs built it with her own two little hands, and I'm thankful to her, for, at least, putting up with me. She really put some effort into the infrastructure, and shopping cart! Hopefully, it brings a new round of customers. It's not really completely ready, cause I haven't fully developed the marketing campaign yet . Lots more to do, but since we're among friends, let's just jump in. I value this sites input, so, all comments, critiques, etc are welcome. Just don't scare anybody away from it, please...send pms if you want to really want to bust chops...lol. http://www.rockyriverleather.com

Fantastic! Thanks a lot. I love a good tutorial

http://www.woodcraft.com/Category/1002086/Glues.aspx

IMHO, Aussie is not a top finish sealer. Leather balm, satin sheen, tankote, bagkote, etc are sealers. Aussie conditioner is just that, a conditioner, with water repellancy. Don't take offense at many views, and no answers. It happens to all of us. Different people, different viewpoints, different days, certain times of the day, etc make for comments. In general, everyone gets an answer . Look through the Topics, and you'll see very few unanswered. We all think we should get 40 replies for the great thing or question we just posted. I just ain't always so...lol You are on the right track, as far as reading all you can on this forum. The answers for the most part are here. Don't be confused, just read carefully, learn who has the advice you trust most. Nevermind the search function, go directly to the Dye technique category, and start reading each one. There's usually a link in some topics that don't seem to be the one you should open...follow them all in the beginning, and soon you'll have an encyclopedia of info in your head. There are many books on dyes, and techniques, we've all bought them, or gotten them free from places like Feibing's, or Tandy. You should test them out, Apply various ones, and get feedback from customers and friends.Write it down in a notebook. Then decide for YOURself which works for you. Everything you learn here from anyone, comes from their experiences. If you get to jump in front of the line a little bit, all the better. Good testing, and don't worry, there's no stupid questions here, this really is the best forum on the net!

Geez, I like it! Some guardian angel you got looking over your shoulder, but YOU still had to do it. Fantastic.

I use 3/8" peg hole with a 3/4"cut ending in a tiny hole. This is right tight on most pegs. Some I had to make 1/2". If the guitar is electric, the player will probably have strap locks. Just measure them. Make sure they will be able to go through your strap and have enough thread to lock on the guitar. If I put two peg holes, I space them 1" apart

What's not to like? Looks comfortable, not too ornate. I like the brass/gold fittings. Good job. Wish I could see it better...lol.

Welcome, John. Looked at your site. Looks like great work. Hope you sell lots of them. If you intend on getting back into things, this is definitely the right place to be. I'm sure you'll find plenty to learn from, and give back in return. -dave