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pete

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Everything posted by pete

  1. thank you so much pete
  2. what I meant was is there a "standard" for where the taper begins before the buckle. ( i.e. 1st belt loop, half way between 1st loop and buckle etc...)
  3. Is there a "standard" to tapering belts? I am making a 1-3/4" belt and want to taper it to fit a 1-1/2 buckle set. How far from the tip or center hole does one begin the taper? And how far in from the bucke end? Please- any " belt makers" replies would be most appreciated!!! pete
  4. Making some tap offs of my latest designs for belts. Should I cut in the border line also? My patterns are 1-1/2" designs allowing for a 3/16 border on each side. General consensus? Bob Park, Rawhide, ect????
  5. When dying a project, how many of you dilute the die and approximately by how much? I've always used it straight out of the bottle but have started deleting with alcohol 50-50. All comments are most welcomed.
  6. many many points to address, but for starters- I would not go the crystal and finishing route with these. I would plan on these being practice pieces. take some leather and copy this pattern2,3,4 times and carve each one. You WILL get better with each try. I wouldn't waste leather on practice. Call this a loss but a great chance to improve ! When you do get to making your belt. take care in cutting the border. If you're going to keep the design INSIDE the lines then you can cut it first . If you want the leaves to overlap like you showed, then allow for that and cut it later (after you scribe the lines) STUDY the artists here as to what this style should look like. There are words class pieces all over here!!!!!!
  7. Bee natural makes a saddle oil that won't darken the leather nearly as much as neats chan Geer uses it on his videos. They make RTC also
  8. please send a catalogue to

    psa2@suddenlink.net

    thank you so much

    pete

  9. I want to sell my Leatherwrangler SK-3 1/2" (barrel) knife and I'll include a very sharp 1/4" hollow straight blade . Try as I may, I can't carve with a straight blade, and I have 3 other barrels already that I like. Bought for LW's standard price of $150.00. Will ship US- make offer of cash or trade-B King thumbprint,bsk weave tool, etc... pm psa2@suddenlink.net thanks for looking p
  10. I really like the look of a basket weave border done with a pointed beveler but it seems to be hit or miss when I do. Sometimes the stars align and it goes great, and other times I do the same thing and the spacing is way off. Is there a perfect width border to use depending on the size of the beveler? I usually make it the width of the tool. should it be the ,length? Does it matter? How do I correctly space the 2nd run to align with the first so there is no "under" or "overlap" of patterns?? It's driving me crazy
  11. LOVE the pear shader borders!!!!!!!! great look!!!
  12. Does anyone have an interest in the old Tandy style handbag as a kit. All parts perfectly cut with a laser; holes, slits, or blank, your choice. front ,back,bottom gusset, and 2 side pieces. send me an message pete
  13. I have now made 3 Tandy "Marketplace Handbags" I have a tip or two for those wanting to make one. I downloaded the pattern(no longer made as a kit) from the Tandy website. The pdf leaves a LOT to be desired. It's worthless as the pictures don't download. They come out as partial pictures on each page that can't be cut and pasted. I got another from CODY here on the forum. Thank you again Cody!!!! 1-, the side strips should be laid out with the front an back panels butted up against each other. MAKE THE STRIPS WIDER than the pattern so that the 1/8" slits fit across them. I would START marking the slits ON the strips so that they come out evenly and don't split the sides as you go around. 2-totally wet the bottom (gusset) just before you assemble it!!! It NEVER fits well if you cut it, mark the notches, curl the sides to a 90* angle and let it dry. Wet it and use binder clips all the way around and let it dry. Perfect fit! Use a straight, not angled, lace punch for the inside of the hand hold. YOU CANT DOUBLE LOOP LACE AROUND WITH ANGLED HOLES!! I did and had to revert to buckstitching which turned out looking good even though I double laced the bottom and top. I hope that this is of help. pete
  14. really nice job on aligning the letters!!!!
  15. on shapes like the heart in the top right, start at the top and cut around the outsides. That way you won't cut across and into the center accidentally. Not bad! Either your cuts aren't deep enough or you didn't bevel deep as the cuts. They are wrinkled because of the and the leather may have been too wet. Practice will make you better each time. Bevel as deeply as you cut. pete
  16. so you don't get a cleaner cut flesh side- and it isn't easier to mark up without lines or ink on the grain?
  17. Been tooling for a number of years now and just asked myself a basic (i think) question. When cutting out pieces, patterns, etc, does it matter if you cut the grain side or the flesh side? I know that I am more comfortable drawing out the pattern darkly with a pen or sharpie on the flesh side rather than lightly on the grain side, but does it matter?
  18. Been tooling for a number of years now and just asked myself a basic (i think) question. When cutting out pieces, patterns, etc, does it matter if you cut the grain side or the flesh side? I know that I am more comfortable drawing out the pattern darkly with a pen or sharpie on the flesh side rather than lightly on the grain side, but does it matter?
  19. you are bevelling deeper than your cuts. Not the other way around. You are "pulling" the leather down . Cut deeper
  20. can you show a picture of the "weaving tool" please!!???
  21. pete

    "kits" For Sale

    My partner is away until August, he has the laser but if you send it I'm sure that we can cut it for you. Send it to psa2@suddenlink.net and I'll pass it on and get a price as soon as I can Pete
  22. the best edger n the world won't edge suede.I would glue and sew then trim as close as possible with the round knife angled inward slightly to reveal the nice finished burnished edge of the belt. Don't try to burnish it after- it will only "fuzz" up the suede. personally I don't use suede- too much friction to put through the loops and it will wear down pretty quickly pete
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