pete

are these patterns your own? really cool floral designs! pete

You might very well be carving too wet. And wetting too much during will bring all the nice relief out agin ruining your work. If you have to re-wet, wring out a sponge well or MIST with a spray bottle and wait a few seconds. Wipe off standing water if it collects. I think that you are not cutting deeply enough and your beveling isn't in the cut line on many places. Let the leather come to almost the original color before cutting. If you need to re-wet, make sure that its the leather that is too dry and not your knife that need stopping! Try a few pieces of scrap of the same oz. leather and really get into it. Don't cut all the way through!- but cut a lot deeper than you have been- maybe 1/2 the thickness. Background when it's a tad bit drier. Also know that for things like a holster where there is a bend involved, it will tend to push out the tooling a bit. DON"T carve a wallet, checkbook, etc where there is a sharp fold. It looks bad, but worse, it "breaks" the leather. Make your pattern such that it can accomodate (eliminate) folds and creases. Hope this helps. pete

Please post some fotos. It sounds as though you are making a common mistake. You are not cutting deeply enough and therefore have nothing to bevel(and flatten) pete

Overall, not bad! Make you cuts deeper along with the beveling, ,ake the thumbprints more pronounced at the tips pf the leaves and taper towards the center, make a more definite line around the seeds, and crowd the seeds a little more. Your "finish" or decorative cuts need to be more flowing and meaningful, not just slashes. Again, off to a good start! pete

I have a ceramic beader from Springfield. I don't use it- $40..00 new.. you can gave it for $30.00 pete

Crystal, that is really gorgeous. You need to send a picture of it to Tandy and let them use it as the finished photo for the market bag (I think that is what it's called). I have made 2 over the years- but that "AFTER" shot will sell a lot more for them when people can see what is possible. pete

good creative thinking! However, I think that when you really get into this "artform"you will find that the paper and 2 layers of plastic won't allow you to trace with any detail. Get some vellum or tracing paper and trace the design onto it, and if you need to(tracing paper absorbs water!) take clear shelf paper and stick it onto the back. pete

I would say the 16 or 20oz. would be the best for almost anything that you will need- I would also recommend an angled blade. Easier to learn with as you need to tip the blade anyway when you carve. I asked the same question after many years of carving and most of the responses were to "upgrade " to a straight blade. I didn't like it for anything but straight lines! Apparently the "old masters" only used straight blades and I think that the tradition stayed. pete

take 2 pieces of wood, clamp together, and cut at a 45*. Put the leather between them and re-join.Use a french edger and run along the edge. pete

Don't doubt you...just wondering what you are making and selling that costs $25,000.00 in deer hide? pete

I posted this awhile back, but an easy way to tell is with a u.s. quarter. One quarter is really close to 4oz, stack two and you will get 8oz. pete

here's a simple way to make ANY size stamp work- first try-no guessing hope this helps others pete

really neat! is that laser etched or did you you use pen of some kind? pete

If I WERE to dye the whole hide, I would do it first (can't tool it after!), let it dry, and cut out your pieces oversized then trim after assembly.

really nice! Can you give a thumbnail description as to how/what order you stitched the bottom pieces? and a view of the back and sides? thanks pete

It won't bleed if you use contact cement and let it dry. Smear it on with your finger tip for such a narrow piece. That small a section and it should be dry in less than a minute. Check it to see if it is tacky or better yet, dry feeling.

put scotch tape along the edge to block the "un-glued" part. Use contact cemet on both pieces- dry and remove tape. pete

try cleaning with iso alcohol first- let it evaporate,and apply with a lightly dampened sponge so there is no initial GLOB of dye, or try several 50/50 diluted coats. I dilute with alochol. pete

I don'T know what angle- he just sharpens it from the tip to the back on one plane. Send it or get ahold of him at frogwithawrench@hotmail.com. does a great job pete

WOW! Nice job... but for someone who didn't have any money you sure spent a lot of time! I still go for the compass, ruler, protractor pack at the dollar store for $1.00. The compass will serve you better as an edge marker and it's adjustable. Mark it and use your swivel to cut it. Bevel with a tandy beveler stuck into a short dowel with a hole in it. It's my best and easiest push beveler. pete

go to a hardware store and buy some 1/8" or 1/4" copper or brass tubing. Hammer it flat and cut it to length. Shape it into an oval around a ruler. Stick it into the slots and pinch it together in the back. I'm sure that for MAYBE $2.00 you can make a whole bunch that could cost $5.00 or more. pete

VERY clever!!! Now, slip in a 45* slat behind the magnet on the box and store your antique jars and glycerine bar and canvas and slickers inside it! pete

IF.... you insist on "CHEEK/FACE" checking the moisture content of your leather prior to tooling, BE SURE that you wipe your face COMPLETELY after consuming a D.Q. chili dog.!!!! THis is crucial to a good finished product. Caveat- If you happen to have a rare bottle of Feibings "BBQ" dye then carry on- your good to go. )(*#)(*&%^_#_)(*%#@$ pete

Chancey- Are these your own creations?