pete

great concept! really good execution!!! I just cracked myself up writing that. pete

I still have a ladies clutch, ladies purse, wallet and ladies wallet for sale if anyone is interested. I won't get around to the for months and can always buy them again. pete

VERY clever use of old boots!!!!!!! Nice job on all- nothing practice and more projects won't fix! I'm on Mt. Home- are you near or over by Fayetteville, etc? pete

I'de put loops in and add real bullets. That's just me.

thank you both- I admire both of your work so that's quite a compliment! I used Feibing's chocolate dye for the background, and med brown antique paste. pea-aire'

Here's a modified Chan Geer pattern that I made for myself after making belts for other folks for the past few months. The buckle is a really nice pewter from Montana Silversmiths. $19.00!!!!!!! I love it. Great quality too. Here's an idea for Double C having read her posts about punching holes. This is just posterboard- I drew a centerline and made holes for my small and large oval punch as well as the round ones at different spaces. Hopes this helps her and others. pete

I get it now. I have 2 "famous" iwb's and they have the clips attached to the body. My shirt just blouses over the grip and tucks in on either side. I like this so much better. Can't believe the other "famous" holsters aren't assembled this way!!!! pete

really neat and simple design. I'm curious why you didn't sew the entire clip to the body. pete

You can have mine- I bought the Tandy splitter 2 years ago and haven never used it after sharpening it. I do a lot of belts and my customer gives the the blanks already to tool. pm me if you like pete

OK all. I started this so I get to finish it. Points and criticisms read and accepted-gratefully I might add. What say we all go to the D.Q. and split a Blizzard. Thanks again to all- Let's play nice....... over and out most respectfully to ALL... pete

thank you Mike. I appreciate it. pete

Apparently I have offended EVERYONE on this forum and have disgraced every ambassador. To all I apologize and will will no longer post. pete ps- I have contributed to this forum financially. pps- thanks to Bruce,Troy,Bob, and others for having helped me with past questions.

OK everybody. I quit ..........Didn't mean to cause a firestorm, hurt peoples feelings, or imply that I am so good that I don't need to ask questions anymore. But I'm not buying the cost of scrap or computer confusion argument either. If you simply OWN a computer then a $3.00 bag of scraps doesn't constitute a "burden on you wallet" Especially if you are asking while using a $10 utility knife, reading a $12 Stohlman entry level book, and worried about ruining $40 of leather. Come on folk, I'm not being arrogant in the least. I'm simply saying that many of these questions are common sense and have nothing to do with leather being the medium. ASK ASK ASK! Check out my posts. I have asked many question in the past and have spent a lot of time answering posts. I have no problem with this- it's one of the best parts of the great forum. end of transmission respectfully to ALL pete

Dear Forum- I have limited time to login and read this great forum. If i could I'de be here all day the way people "google" all day. BUT...... I am amazed and getting a little peeved at the copious amounts of requests here made mostly beginners and "noobs" It seems that I login sometimes and find 3-4 pages and a huge majority of the requests are for things that even a beginner should be able to figure out-to-------I.E. oil before or after dyeing, will too much water make my cuts close, how do I cut a straight line and what should I use to cut with, can I punch holes in dry leather, and on and on....... I REALLY don't mean to come off as arrogant or above helping those newer to this craft- but come on!! GET SOME SCRAPS AND TRY WHAT YOU ARE AFRAID TO ATTEMPT AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS!! That's exactly what I tell those who approach me or call me for help. Try IT!!! You will learn more doing it than you EVER will asking me or anyone else. I see way too many pictures posted here of projects by folks who are new and this is their first posting, and they BEGIN by pointing out their own mistakes- obvious mistakes that don't require comment If a stitch line is crooked or an edge was wavy, a lacing loop was missed TRY IT AGAIN!!! FIX IT!!! scraps are cheap- you don't need to be told that your cut missed the scratch line. This is a craft- it takes a long time to get REALLY good, but plenty of beautiful work can be completed if you take your time, practice before you cut and wack, and think out the job before you do it. Again- I'm not ranting nor am I angry- I just so appreciate this forum and its members and their talent and hate wading through posts that could so easily be answered if only the search button was used more often. There is a TON on information that has been compiled and it goes WAY back. I don't think that I could invent a question that can't be answered from the search archives. pete

welcome from Mt. Home, Arkansas- where are you? pete

I wouldn't make the earpiece solid or heavy let alone out of a cantle plate. You'de end up with a very cranky pony in a short time. pete

I use the Tandy wood one- it's fine. TIP: I have 5-6 strips cut to exact measurements and labeled. 1" all the way to 2" and many in between. I punched a hole and strung them onto a piece of string. I never guess anymore as to cutting widths as I put the strip into the tool and slide it up tight and lock in place. I too had trouble when I first got it as the"ruler " on the side wasn't very accurate. pete

A sharp Tandy #2 edger, a brick of glycerine saddle soap, a little water, and rub with a canvas cloth.. Worked for me for years and I got a professional finish. Sand with 150+=- grit till smooth, edge both sides,wet, rub with soap, slick with the cloth briskly. done

Ed- I too would like a price on an awl and handle. I love the maul- haven't used any other since---For ANYTHING! light or heavy!! thanks again for your quality products. respectfully pete

conditioning before casing prevents the water from properly saturating the leather. Plus I think that you may have gotten a bad piece to begin with. Was it a pre made blank or did you cut the strip yourself?

You can case after backing on some lighter leathers. I never use cement as a backing but I use clear shelf paper and sometimes cement that to a plate of plexiglass. The shelf paper works well and is easier to apply than cross strips of packing tape. I also like the nap that's left afterwards- makes for better contact to glue. just make sure that you REMOVE THE BACKING FROM THE LEATHER RATHER THAN PULLING THE LEATHER FROM THE BACKING. HOLD THE LEATHER FLAT AND PULL THE TAPE OFF. PETE

why do you condition it before you case it- or are you? How much resolene are you using and how are you applying it? Is the leather really thick or hard where it bends? We need more information. pete

For one thing your awl cuts are not in the proper position. Imagine a slanted rectangle cut. The top right and bottom "points" should be along parallel lines if you were to draw them on the leather. Hard to explain but search here for hand sewing and look closely at the angle at which the awl pierces. pete

Tandy "pebble" background tool. pete

I have found through practice that I can get a really good fit on a bible cover if I measure the closed bible and add 1" to the width (back cover edge around to the front cover edge) and 1/2" to the height. hope this is helpful if you can't get the bible to measure first. I normally use 4/5oz leather. pete