DJ1935

Thank you, Glendon. I leave about half an inch all round and trim it off after sewing. I may have to round the corners slightly and go that way. WyomingSlick the saying "Growing old is compulsory - growing up isn't" means that we all grow old physically we cannot do anything to stop that but mentally we don't have to. Best wishes DJ

Has anyone got a way of doing wallet corners so that the corner is covered nicely? I'm using soft deer nappa for the outer and machine stitching after gluing around the edge to hold it whilst stitching. Cutting the corner off at a 90 degree angle might work with calf or thin russet but the soft deer skin moves whilst stitching and the cut angle gapes leaving an ugly gap and the corner of the wallet lining pokes out through the end. Most frustrating!

Has anyone got a way of doing wallet corners so that the corner is covered nicely? I'm using soft deer nappa for the outer and machine stitching after gluing around the edge to hold it whilst stitching. Cutting the corner off at a 90 degree angle might work with calf or thin russet but the soft deer skin moves whilst stitching and the cut angle gapes leaving an ugly gap and the corner of the wallet lining pokes out through the end. Most frustrating!

Hi Andrew, we do a lot of coasters from skirting and I had the same problem, not enough contrast. I found by spraying a light coat of water on the surface before putting them in the heat press will create that darkened effect. Be very careful, though, too much damp and you will get (we've come to call them) - "toasters"!

Hi Trevor, thank you for that. Will get in touch. Cheers DJ

That would be a "worst case' scenario. We would rather have a new one in hand as the press is still working albeit intermittently and we're loathe to pull it to pieces unless we have a back up. Thanks DJ

We have a three phase BUSM swing beam cutting press GSB1. Serial number 36B. Made in Italy circa 1983. Does anyone know where we can get a circuit/mother board for it? Thank you.

Some time ago Weaver removed their online Wholesale catalogue and with it the ability for wholesale account holders to order online. You will now have to contact them by phone or email to order.

Thank you for your comments, much appreciated. Physically the most difficult bit was covering the swells, no need to go to the gym after that work out! I thought stitching the cantle was going to be the worst bit but once I got started - and worked out that I needed a jerk needle it wasn't so bad. I stitched the swell front and the back billets with the Pearson #6, the cantle and horn by hand. Hi Trevor, great to hear from you and yes, will get in touch. I don't know about the "Saddler" title - how many saddles do you have to make before you earn your stripes? Good question really, I've never had any formal training, apart from some mentoring by a qualified local Saddler but have fiddled about with leather for almost forty years, probably longer than some qualified people, does that make one a "leatherworker", a saddle maker or a saddler? What ever the answer one never stops learning with leather, always something new to discover. Cheers DJ

My first saddle it took a while but I got there - with a little help from Al Stholman (he was probably looking down and pulling his hair out at times) as well some helpful advice from this great forum. Built on a ralide roper tree, all stainless hardware and American skirting leather. Had some great positive feedback from the Team Roping guys already so, hopefully someone will take it home and I'll see it round the arena this season. DJ

Thank you, CEM, much appreciated. I rang Greenhalgh Tannery today. Very helpful and offered to send over some samples which I am looking forward to seeing. Have you used any of their leather?

Sorry, WinterBear, I was being factious. Having imported this "russet" in good faith the supplier is now stuck with a heap of rotten leather he cant sell and the cost of returning it will be horrendous. They are not a big firm so the impact will be significant.

Bingo! Thank you, mrdabeetle, that description fits it to a tee. I will tell the supplier the good news, I'm sure they will be more than chuffed! No need to apologise, Pappy, I was pleased to have your input, thanks. And yes, Hornm we do have quite strict limitations on importing some items, for instance we cannot import any leather made from Cites listed animals, including Kangaroo without a lot of paper work and cost - then there is still no guarantee that you will be allowed the goods. There are saddle makers here who pool together and import a pallet of sides between them. I generally bring in a side or two from the USA when I need them with no problem apart from the cost of freight which is generally the same as the cost of the hide - effectively doubles the cost of the leather but I guess that is the joys of living at the bottom of the world!! Thanks to all, DJ

I totally agree, Pappy. Unfortunately here in New Zealand we no longer have a tannery that produces vege tanned leather and most of the leather workers here are totally reliant on what the suppliers bring into the country. Due to shppping costs, etc the cost of American leather is doubled by the time it gets into our hands hence the suppliers are looking for cheaper - not necessarily better - options.

Last week a rep bought round some "new" sides of russet and asked me what I thought. The sides were small, about 13 sq feet and had no wrinkles or stretch marks and were around 9 to 10 oz. The surface had no finish on it, just a very slight nap. Although it was supposed to be "natural" russet it had a reddish tinge, almost the colour of chestnut skirting. It occurred to me that it would make very good belts so I took a side to give it a try and see how it dyed up etc so I could report back to the firm with a verdict. By the time I had trimmed off the back to get a straight edge the carpet on my cutting table had turned red - likewise my clothing where I had been bending over the side. Looking across the side into the sunlight you could see a fine red dust rising up when the leather was disturbed - it looked pretty much like the dust from red bricks. I immediately donned a mask and sprayed the entire side with water before proceeding to roll it up and vacumn my table. I contacted the leather supplier and they contacted the tannery in India who would only say that the dust is part of the tanning process and is completely harmless to humans. In a previous life I was involved in the Painting and Decorating business and know full well that any fine dust in your lungs is harmful. I have also been playing with leather for the last forty years and have never struck anything like this in any of the leather I've used. Has anyone out there come across this before? And do you know what it is? Thanks DJ

Hi Steadybrook I put a similar request on the LeatherPros forum asking for some help with a full size western side saddle. The silence was deafening! If anyone out there can help with the construction of these saddles it would be much appreciated, thanks. DJ

I have been asked by Lute to post some photos of my Pearson rein attachment. This is the section in the Pearson handbook related to the attachment and it's operation. Might be of help to others.

Just finished this set of saddle wallets for a customer in Australia. These wallets were used by the mounted troops of the British Empire during World War One. They fit over the front of the troopers saddle and contained personal effects such as shaving gear, spare socks, diaries etc. This pair of wallets are all hand stitched - as the originals were - and have a concertina type gusset. A LOT of work!

Hi Barlaam What you are seeing with the white specks is the tallow or fat in the oil has seperated out - probably because the oil has been cold. Put your bottle of oil in a pan of hot water for a while and it will come right. Do not heat the oil directly on the stove!!! If you are continually having this problem because of the weather conditions store the bottle in the hot water cupboard (better ask permission first!) Cheers DJ

Hi zbean I use #14 copper rivets on alot of the WW1 military gear that I make. Originally the rivets and burrs were tinned to prevent the copper verde gris from staining the leather. There is no one doing this commercially now so we do our own. I can supply you with some depending on how many you need. We have #10 and 8 as well. Have a look on our website www.ethosleather.co.nz Regards DJ

Could someone please tell me the correct way to fit a roping/barrel noseband with tie down. Are they used seperate/independantly from the headstall or put through the brow band loops like an English bridle? Thank you DJ

I've been asked to make some bag handles similar to this. Can someone explain to me how to do this plait. I can do a standard four strand round but this one has two sets of three. Any assistance would be appreciated, thanks.

Thank you, Bob, you were right on the money. I wasnt pulling the thread up quite enough to snap it into place. All good now though. Thanks to all who answered, much appreciated. DJ

Thank you for your replies. The thread is left twist Polyester (called here Terko satin #25) on a cone sitting on a the stand. (I was given some nylon thread to try a few years ago by a traveller but gave it up as a bad joke - it never stayed on the cone and seemed to have a mind of it's own) Goes verticle through the wire eye, straight to the post on machine, round post twice (through three holes) then straight to three hole thread eyelet where it goes round twice then down to the tension discs. Today was sewing zippers on single thickness suede, no humps, bumps or lumps. Cheers DJ

We have recently purchased a Juki LU 563. I've threaded it up as per the manual and it sews like a charm. However every now and then the thread falls out from between the bottom tension discs which creates a huge birds nest on the bottom by the time you realise it's happened. It seems a silly idea to rely on the gravitational pull of the moon to hold the thread up ( when everyone knows the earth sucks!) so have I missed something or is this frustratingly "normal" for this model.