jwwright

What do you like to use for horn wrap material? chrome tanned, gray apron split type stuff..........other chrome tanned material, latigo, or ? Thanks JW.

Many Thanks for all the generous comments...........I surely appreciate it. JW

I have been using the lowest point of the bar front and back, then do the math method. Seems to work well for me.................sure enjoy hearing how others do it. JW

Ha!..........Keith sometimes my taco hats do develop somewhat of a pencil roll after a few years.........makes them even more areodynamically effective! I cowboyed in quite a few differing regions, and worked with puncher and buckaroo types, and most every hybrid in between. We settled in the ranch country here in the Flint Hills of Kansas quite a few years ago, and like it just fine. However, you are correct.........I'm most definitely a west Texan always at heart. I appreciate all your saddle wisdom. JW

Thanks for your thoughts Keith, Greg and Wyoming. Keith, mostly around this part of the world, most hats are in some form of taco shape, maybe tater chip........not many amish looking ufo lids to be seen. That's a friendly joke, hope all have a sense of humor. Really good ideas on the fillers for straight binds, and the opinions on rawhide binding confirm what my thoughts have always been. Thanks again fellers. JW

Mule.........I really don't know that there is a difference in finger roll or pencil roll or straight binding. From here, south to Texas it is most often referred to as a finger roll. Me, I've always called it a straight bind. Bob and Bruce........great ideas, as always, Many Thanks. I am working on a wade with a straight bind currently, and this gives me more to chew cud on. JW

I finished up this ranch cutter last week, which is my saddle #3. It sold the day I finished it, so I felt good about that. I sure get a lot out of everyone's experience here, Thank You for that.

We had a great discussion of ideas a little while back about cheyenne roll bindings. I was curious as to everyone's thoughts on straight cantle bindings, or pencil roll, or finger roll........what ever they are called in your part of the world. Specifically 2 things.............do you always use a filler on your straight binds, or just the cantle back, seat and binding cover? If you do generally use a filler, do you put it in seat side, or cantle back side? Thus far, I've done it several ways, and am trying to sort out what method I like best. Also, rawhide on straight bindings........pros and cons? Thanks for your throughts.

Ryan, another option for you might be to have the tree repaired. Only outfit I have first hand knowledge of doing that work well, is Ray Lewis. Ray and his brother are a 2 man shop building custom trees at Hereford, TX, and they also rebuild trees and glass them. I have been getting trees from Ray, but have not ever used the tree rebuild service........reports from others who have, have been good. Contact number is 806-364-0102.

I am a novice at saddle making myself, currently working on saddle number 4. I do have quite a bit of experience repairing saddles, and a lifetime of making my living riding them. I think I read and viewed most of the books and videos/dvds on the subject. For me, the most helpful resources have been the Stohlman series of books, and the Jeremiah Watt dvd. The Bruce Cheany videos covered some things on building swell forked and cutting saddles that was helpful. Good luck with it.

Thanks for the thoughts folks. I think that for my purposes, a Boss just might work well. If you run across anyone with one of the older cast iron models for sale, holler.

I have a question about the Tippmann Boss machine. I remember reading some comments about them pre crash, and seems like folks loved them or hated them. Here is my situation.................I am a novice saddle maker, currently working on my fourth saddle. I do repairs and build saddles in my off time when I am not horseback. I have been hand stitching everything on repairs and new saddles, except skirts. There is a feller in town that has been sewing skirts for me on his Artisan 3000, and although he is a nice guy, the jobs he has done for me are not real good. Space is a limitation for me, as my shop is in the small basement of our rancho. I also have 0 experience with any kind of sewing machine, although I am fairly mechanically inclined. I like the idea of a human powered machine. At any rate..........those of you with much greater wisdom and experience.......my question is, would a Tippmann Boss machine be suitable for me sewing skirts, etc. Many Thanks.

Anybody been using the Duall 88 Cement? I got a couple quarts of it from Siegels, and like it just fine. It is thinner than the Barge, and it is clear.

These videos are sold, thanks.

$100, plus shipping. Thanks.

The Watt dvds have been sold.

I took the advice of several folks here, and a while back bought a couple awl blades made by Bob Douglass. There are great. I also got an awl haft (handle) that Bob made. It is very well made, but I found the end where it rests on my palm to be a little too pointed for me when going through some heavy material. I got my Douglass awl blades from Vandy at Sheridan Leather Outfitters. 888-803-3030

I have the 4 vhs video tape series from Bruce Cheney on building a cutting saddle available for sale. bluestem82@aol.com

I have the Jeremiah Watt saddle making dvd set available for sale. Complete, in good condition, and in original case. bluestem82@aol.com

One more, same saddle.

Thanks a million Keith.

Thanks for all the thoughts and tips fellers. Keep it coming. I am starting another ranch cutter this week, with thicker and lower swells than a typical Buster Welch front. Gonna see if I can't get it covered without a welt. Thanks again.

Really nice work F Potter.......glad you are here. Above are a couple photos of my second saddle. The oil wasn't completely dried yet, but I did get the color evened out well. It is a ranch versatility saddle (think stout made ranch cutter). Thanks all.

I am anxiously awaiting everyone's words of wisdom on this topic. I have recovered a bowman and wade forks in the past without welts. Currently, I am working on my 3rd complete saddle, start to finish. All have been swell forks thus far. I have done laced up swells on these, mainly because I like it........it's a southwest cowpuncher thing, I guess. I have done some hidden stitch type in the past, which I think works well if a fella is going to carve the swells. I would sure like to do some larger swell forks in the future without welts or laces. Thanks.

Hi Tracy......Jayson Jones moved from Texas to west of Colorado Springs a while back. Jayson was a ranch cowboy and ranch manager for Beggs Cattle Co, and built spurs and bits part time for quite a few years. He now builds full time, and is a picker/singer with the Flying W Wranglers. His spurs and bits are outstanding, and a great feller. His website is : www.jaysonjonesspurs.com .