jwwright

For what it's worth............over time, I've found that on plate rigs, 7" drop from the bar down to the point of where the latigo will attach to the rigging hardware, works very well....unless the saddle is intended for a shorter legged rider.............then I will go 6 1/2" drop or maybe a shade less. JW

Nice job CW. Punchy rig that rides great, I'd bet. JW

Real nice Tyrel, as usual. JW

Nice job. I like puncher rigs. JW

I think all the responses have been correct. For my input, I'll say that where the stirrup leathers hang is a function of the stirrup slot placement in the bars, primarily. 2 1/2" leathers will allow for a little more flexibility, and I use them in all saddles that I build, unless the customer requests otherwise. 1/2 leather, ranch cutter style fenders / leathers allow for maximum flexibility, and do allow you to put the point of the stirrup position slightly ahead of the true stirrup leather line. I use that style of set up on many saddles as well. JW

Well.....there's always many ways to skin a cat.......but, without any stitches coming through any of the backside of that binding, I'd be afraid that the glue would let go, and you'd have a binding that was loose. JW

All my fender legs are 10 - 10 1/2", and I twist and wrap most of them. I also use primarily 2 1/2" stirrup leathers. JW

Nice job, Lonnie. JW

Congratulations Darcy!........the saddles look real good , as always. JW

One more in agreement with Keith and Shelly.........I use the peelers. JW

Aurelie.....Thank You. The seat rig is shaped very much like a plate rigging, except that it is part of the seat jockey. The seat rigging / jockey is lined with skirting leather, as you would do with a plate rigging. The lining is from the front of the seat back to the cantle ear. It goes up and around the swells, around the back of the swells up to the handhole. The lining pieces from each side meet and over lap one another a little at the hand hole. Hope that answers your question. JW

Billy.......Thank You. Bradley........yes sir, I talked with Kevin yesterday, and I'm going to get a couple 14" wide. Back when I ordered the one in the photo, it was available only 13. Thanks, JW

Billy........I've had a seat rig before, and I couldn't tell much difference between it and a plate rig, and at least the way I build them, there is the same amount of leather under your leg either way. We've had a couple nice rains this winter, b ut we are certainly not out of the drought yet.......hoping for the best come spring time. Thank You. JW Joel........they don't pinch. Thank You, JW

Thank You, Steve. JW

B Milla..........Thank You, sir. I really liked that Lewis tree, and especially that swell shape. Wish I could get it 14" wide as well. I d intend too use more . Thanks, JW

Thanks to all for punchy praise. PUNCHY is as PUNCHY does. CWR......that's high praise, Thank You. JW Billy, the seat rigs are a little different to build. Took a little more time than usual, mainly because of the fact that most of what I make are plate rigs, so it was different. Kinda like the first few skirt rigs I built.....after the first couple they went as quick as a plate rig or D rig. No sir I won't ride it.... this one is on it's way to the customer who ordered it. Thank You, JW B Milla......This is on a Sonny Felkins tree, as most of mine are. The Lewis tree I built on last Fall, and has been delivered to the customer for a couple of months now. I'll see if I can attach a photo of it here on this reply. Thank You, JW

Yes sir, we do punchy. I'll take that as a compliment....Thank You both! JW

I don't recall seeing very many seat rigged saddles posted here over the years, so I though I'd post this one I recently finished. This rough out I built on a tree with what I call Bluestem Will James swell shape. The cantle is 3" , and the duckbill horn is 2 1/2" high with a 3 1/2" cap. Thank You, JW

Real nice saddle Chuck. I have never seen an Arizona Roper swell that narrow...........all I've seen / built / ridden are 13 or 14" wide............mostly 14". That one looks nice too though. You mentioned fitting seats around forks, etc........for me, it's actually easier cutting / fitting around wider swells with more undercut.........as opposed to straighter sided forks like this one. Not sure why that is............probably because I build a lot of wide swell forks with undercut and that's what I'm most used to . Any way............real nice saddle, I'm sure the customer is thrilled, and congrats to you. JW

Ben....yes sir. It was the #8 firmness rating that I tried. It was too soft for me.................different preferences for different folks. JW

Ben, I got some of that McMaster Carr pad to try last year. It was way too soft to suit me, and I didn't use it. Everyone has their own preferences to be sure, but I like a very firm pad in my inlays. JW

I agree.......the last half dozen or so inlaid seats I've done, I've used the cloud crepe from Panhandle as well. I like it. JW

Ditto what Brett said....I also use Tan Kote. JW

Cool stuff Steve. JW

Knut.........I can't speak for everyone, but 90% of the saddles I build have at least the seat rough out......and quite a few complete rough outs. A rough out seat offers quite a bit more grip than a smooth out, and a rough out is the over whelming choice of ranch cowboys. Never have known a rough out saddle to soak up much moisture in a rain storm.......it would have to be badly in need of some oil for that to happen. Basically, it's a personal preference choice. As for slicking or finishing rough out.........I don't. I use leather that has been buffed on the flesh side at the tannery, and I simply oil it. JW