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jwwright

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Everything posted by jwwright

  1. Hi Chuck...........I never have used one, but I have heard real good reports from several guys who have Ferdco machines....over the past 7 or 8 years, I don't remember hearing a bad report about them. I think that may be where I look for my next machine. I have an Artisan 3000 that is about 6 months older than yours. It has given me some trouble, and continues to do so off and on, but not near as much as you and others have had. I have built approx. 60 saddles with it, so it's done some work, but I continue to have to fuss with it every time I use it...sometimes much more than others. JW
  2. Ben......I just saw your comment.........I'm slow as usual. Thank You, and Happy New Year. JW
  3. CW....Very Nice Saddle! Congrats. You asked about the skirt pattern.....in my opinion, what's bothering your eye is that the skirts run down hill. It's a common problem, and I see it often. Sure won't affect the function of the saddle, and most folks would never notice it, as many saddles I've seen by even the most experienced have that situation going on. Congrats on a very nice saddle, and Merry Christmas. JW
  4. Very nice Darcy, with your usual clean style. JW
  5. Thank You Darcy, and Merry Christmas to you and your family. JW
  6. Bob and Knut..............Thank You. JW
  7. Thank You Steve, Billy & Aurelie. Billy, yes I am blessed to have work in the shop. The biggest percentage of my new orders come from repeat customers or referrals, so that helps quite a bit. I've done several in skirt rigs this year, and for me, getting things square side to side isn't too big of a deal, its just all the measurements have to come from the top side. Aurelie, yes ma'am.......same thing..........skirt rigged / in skirt rigging. JW
  8. I hope everyone had a good summer. I haven't put any thing up on here for a while, but have darn sure been busy in the shop. Below are a few photos of saddles I built the past couple of months. A Wade, a skirt rigged ranch versatility, and the rough out is a Tuscon. JW
  9. Kewl pics Billy, and nice job on the saddles. JW
  10. Good stuff Ty. Hope you summered well. JW
  11. Lewis Saddle Tree, Hereford, Tx. JW
  12. Very cool Ryan. What's the specs on that cantle? JW
  13. I agree with Bob. Leather New is a great product for general cleaning and conditioning, and can be buffed to a mellow shine. Over oiling is a bigger problem that I see, rather than under oiling. If you want a nice shine beyond what you can get by buffing Leather New, I use Tan Cote on both new saddles and clean/refurbish jobs. JW
  14. Sean, I suggest that you try Trina Weber again..........maybe phone rather than email. I've purchased quite a few pairs of stirrups from her, and always got good service and great stirrups. JW
  15. Very cool Darcy.
  16. Bill, I don't see why the horse hide wouldn't work fine for lining. You've got it right, it's been my experience that sweat will wreck an unlined skirting headstall pretty quick, if it's being used hard. By that, I mean being used every day by someone making their living horseback, which is the situation that most of what I make is subjected to. Rocks,...well, in the case of the Flint Hills here, rocks are a good thing. The hills are primarily limestone, with flint on top. That situation is what has preserved the last 2% of the native tallgrass prairie in the world right here. It's why this is great grass ranch country , as opposed to being farmerville. JW
  17. Bill, it's been my experience that skirting doesn't last long for headstalls, if not lined. Harness leather will hold up well, but if using skirting, I think it needs to be lined. JW
  18. My standard is 1 1/4" also, for the same reasons as Andy. Occasionally, 1 1/2" for a rider who specifies that they ride back against the cantle. Not to high jack the thread, but it is relevant...........what do you like as far as cantle width? I use mostly 12 or 12 1/2" wide. Thanks, JW
  19. Looks good Bruce. I just finshed one myself with the same type of request from the customer regarding the seat. He said he likes to feel the cantle on his backside all the time, so same thing......I put a shorter sweet spot in it, further back. JW
  20. As Jeff suggested, my primary tool for ground seat work is a potato peeler style , safety skife. I do use a round knife for the initial skiving of the edges of my ground work pieces prior to gluing them in. JW
  21. It would depend on how the strings are put in........through the tree, just through the leather, or even just stuck on top with a nail. I think some of those had strings on a small clip / dee under screw back conchos also. If you could put up a photo of what you've got there it would be helpful. JW
  22. I don't think that the rawhide would have softened enough to cause tree warpage in that short of time. I would just let the saddle dry in a low humidity situation, and then look thing over and oil. JW
  23. How long was the saddle in the tank? On a decently made rawhide covered tree, it would have to soak for a long time to begin to soften up the rawhide. Unless the saddle stayed in the tank for an entire day or two, I don't think you have any problems . Just let the saddle dry for a few days, and then give it a moderate oiling with 100% neatsfoot, olive oil, or what ever you like. JW
  24. Thank You Clay, I appreciate your generous remarks. Clay C. and his family are good people, and he darn sure makes a living horseback. We are starting to green up here too......although we've been in a drought from here down through Texas for a while. We had several good snows over the winter, but it never even made mud when it melted. We need some rains to help the grass, and slow down the wildfires. All the best to you, JW
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