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Ogoki

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About Ogoki

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  • Location
    Vancouver
  • Interests
    Making boots and jeans. Working on old motorcycles.

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  1. Hello all, I am looking for a twin-needle chainstitch machine for felling the seat and yokes of jeans, and I found an old Union Special 35800AX locally. The manual lists it for medium to heavy duty work, 6.5oz to 8oz fabric. This is much lighter than the 15oz material that I will be using, but most of these old machines were not made for the heavier denim that we are using these days, and they generally work fine. And "extra-heavy" folders seem to be available. I know that the 35800B* version with a puller is preferable, but does anybody know from experience (@gottaknow?) how appropriate/inappropriate this particular machine will be? I know that some boutique Japanese manufacturers use the 35800 without a puller, which would imply a 35800A* machine, but they tend to be a little secretive about their machines (pardon the generalization). Thanks for any info.
  2. Thanks for the link. I have seen that article before. Nice restoration pics. However, she is still referring to the gap to the right of the lever (between lever and pin), and to the release of tension that coincides with foot lift.
  3. Yes, exactly, it is a completely different mechanism from the foot-lift-tension-release, although they both release tension via that same lever. This 44-79 would have been meant for stitching leather gloves, so who knows. Thanks for that info, @RockyAussie
  4. Yes, there is no question about that. I'm interested in the statement in the linked video that claims that as the arm to the left of the tension release lever descends, it should contact the lever momentarily, which will in turn press against the tension release pin and push the discs apart (again, just for a split second). The original lever from this machine (pictured in my hand) is worn in such a way that would support this claim, which has simply made me curious... This machine is OK in that regard. Lifting with the knee lifter as one would do to pivot around a corner doesn't quite release tension. It is the gap on the left of the tension release arm that interests me (I assume you are referring to the gap between the lever and the pin on the right).
  5. Thanks for the responses, guys. I too was a little skeptical of this "feature." @Ken Nelson - This machine doesn't skip stitches either. However, judging by the depth of the groove worn into the tension release lever, it likely would have been releasing the thread tension momentarily on every stroke. If anybody with a 31- or a 44- would like to pop the cover and verify whether or not the tension lever is pressed by that arm as it passes (or whether there is a gap, as in my attached picture), it would be much appreciated.
  6. The machine in question is actually a more obscure 44-79, but the mechanism is same. I was watching this video on setting up the 31-15, and realized that the tension release lever is actually (or at least according to this video) supposed to release the upper thread tension momentarily as the needle is descending (essentially as the eye of the needle passes through the fabric): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z1QX4nL65L0 The lever on my 44-79 has a groove worn into it, and it is no longer making contact with the arm that should press against it. So, I pulled the lever from my 96K, but despite being the same part (according to the parts books and the numbers punched on both parts), it is a little thinner and the arm doesn’t contact it either. So, before I have somebody braze these levers to build up that area, I am wondering whether this feature is critical for stitch formation. What purpose does it serve? I don't think that any of my other machines have this feature, although they are all rotary hook machines; is it particular to oscillating hook machines? Thanks for any responses.
  7. Thanks, CowboyBob. Any reason I couldn't run the 29x3 patcher needles with a needle bar height adjustment?
  8. Yeah, I linked that chart in my post... I have ground down needles in the past, but prefer simply to adjust the needle bar (one simple adjustment - in theory - vs. grinding down every needle). Yes, the heavier, the better... but I am wondering whether anybody can confirm the actual max thread weight.
  9. Hi all, I'm looking at picking up an old 44--79, which seems to be something of a stubby 31-15 with a walking foot (originally intended for light to medium leather gloves). The manual lists it as taking 16x99 needles up to size 25. 16x99 seems to be unavailable (at least in large sizes), but 29x3 patcher needles are of the same diameter, albeit about a millimetre and a half longer. Is there any foreseeable reason they wouldn't work with a needle bar adjustment? http://ismacs.net/needle_and_shank/needle-cross-reference-chart-round-shank.html Also, the recommendation of size 25 needles gives me some idea as to maximum thread weight, but does anybody have any firsthand experience with the thread limitations of this machine? Any other general comments...? Thanks.
  10. I asked this recently, as I was wondering about the limitations of my little Singer 95K43, whose thread capabilities were more limited than the domestic machine that I keep around for zig-zag purposes. I ended up adding some clearance to the slot in the rotary hook through which the needle and thread pass. I would have also opened up the needle hole in the throat plate, but it was already a "heavy duty" part with a bigger hole. Anyhow, the machine now sews comfortably with tex 120 (cotton/poly) thread (69 was about the limit initially), and I imagine I could squeeze a hair more out of it... The little Singer is a horizontal axis machine, whereas yours is a vertical axis... I haven't yet tried to add clearance to one of my vertical axis machines, but I have a pretty good idea as to where I would start... Of course, these modifications won't increase the feed/punching/materials handling capabilities of a machine, but might be useful if all you want to do is run heavier thread... assuming the parts you modify are readily available and relatively inexpensive...
  11. I can't imagine that uneven wear of parts would be a concern in a hobby setting... or that the needle bar would feel the difference, except maybe in the unlikely event of a single needle mounted on a really wide gauge set...
  12. I do it all the time on my twin-needle flat bed and post bed machines. The only drawback to the twin-needle post machine is that the post is twice as wide and can be a little restrictive if you are running certain shapes over the post (e.g. the tightly curved heel of a boot upper).
  13. Could you post a photo of the head? I use a 55 and a 77 and I'm curious about this 30...
  14. Thanks for the info, Wiz. To be honest, I'm basically looking for something that would serve as a poor man's Union Lockstitch. I have been wondering how Wesco runs such thick thread on the uppers of their boots (looks like CB554, the same as the outsole thread we all use), and finally realized it is a Union Lockstitch. Having been hit in the face by broken needles and awls off a Rapid E, the idea of that machine really excites me, but I think that something with a roller would serve me better. And I would like to be able to use it for heavy-thread accents on denim (#0 cotton thread), so a UL might be a little ridiculous in that case... Will an Adler 105 handle #277 thread?
  15. Hi guys, Which vintage needle-feed cylinder arm machines can handle heavy thread - ideally up to #346. I assume the Adler 105 would do the trick. Which other machines should I keep an eye out for? Would any of the Consew 22x variants do the trick? I would like to be able to put a roller foot on it for boot work once in a while (for heavy-thread accents on the uppers), so I prefer needle feed to walking-foot, and I am only interested in vintage "junk." Thanks for any suggestions.
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