splinters

Thanks Bill.

Took some scrape 3/4 oz. leather and made a squeeze pouch for the new swivel knife. Now, would some one please tell me how to calculate the length of thread needed to stitch a given distance for a given number of thicknesses? In doing this little project I came up short using a measurement 4 x length. I wonder if I miscalculated by not adding a couple of inches for threading each needle? Anyway, a few photos of the project.

Thank you Djanjo57. Much appreciated!

The videos seem to no longer be available. Just found this thread and was looking forward to Nige's saddle stitching videos. Seems everyone was very high on them. That's a shame.

Hi Bob, I do have a variable speed foot control on the rotary tool which makes for easy low RPM running. Got to try the BK swivel knife yesterday for a short period. I think I'm really going to enjoy learning to use it. I tried both blades, 3/8 & 1/4, after putting each on the strop for a few pulls. A very smooth carve through some of my test cased scrape leather. Now if I can just get some of these domestics out of the way for more time in the shop......... LOL Thanks for your input. Always a help.

After reading Bob Park's Edging pdf I began to look through the threads here trying to decide on a mechanical burnisher. My decision came down to the Hole Master Tip 1/4" 1/8" Pro Edge Burnisher that I'll be trying in my Foredom flex shaft rotor tool. I may add one of their larger units for the drill press at a later date. The cocobolo wood they use makes for a very attractive tool. All I need to do now is start practicing on scrap leather with some of these new tools I have started acquiring and begin to try to understand how to case, crave, stamp, etc. P.S. BTW JLS, thanks for your input on the minimum leather weight question. Much appreciated.

What would be the minimum weight of leather a beginner should attempt to carve and/or stamp? Thanks

Have you tried singeing the wool dauber with a small alcohol burner to remove the loose wool fibers before applying the product?

Thanks Bill. I was playing around with some scape in that manner. Does cut a nice line.

Found the following leather tool. It was in with some of my original leather tools I still have. Is it call an Edge Beader by any chance and how is it used?

I'm a member of a number of other forums and don't run into the issue. Still head scratching over that......?

Thanks for your information. The thread you provide was an interesting read. I have a small stack of notes from that read that I'll add to my shop notebook now. That notebook is beginning to be a treasure. Pat

Thanks JLS. You've added to my education. Much appreciated.

Thanks the reply Bill. Why not use your ultrasonic cleaner too. Some of these air brushes are not what you would call inexpensive. Sounds like some quality insurance to me.

Question about acrylic resolene; if sprayed from an air brush do you clean the air brush with water or.......... ? Thinking about applying the acrylic resolene over neat's-foot oil compound as sealer. Thanks

JLS, Thanks for the heads-up on this thread today. An interesting read that lets me know I have so much to learn starting at the basics. I'm trying but will probably run out of time at my age...... LOL ...... but the learning to me is a big part of the fun. Pat

I came upon Bob Park's Finishing Edges document and decided I would attempt to follow his approach. The Fiebing's soaps arrive in the mail today so I got start. Really like how it seems to be working though I don't have other experience to judge it by. I do have a question about how long to wait after the burnish step and before applying the dye to the edge. Nice clean work makes one think of being in a tack room.

Hi JLS,My belt blank cost more than twice that so would you mind letting me know where I'm going wrong....... Lol Thanks, Pat

Thanks mlapaglia.

Thanks Tom. Interesting. After using the iPad and Safari I have started to wonder if Windows Explorer is the culprit over here, here being the PC.

Question on applying a finish to the belt be it Neatsfoot oil or dye. Should it be applied to both sides of the belt?I let the belt dry all night and the stain from my over soak is still there. In the future I will remember to dampen and not soak......... Doh! When I showed the stained belt to my wife last night and considering what it is to be used for ( a Rendezvous Muzzleloader shoot this Saturday and they request you wear clothing of the period if possible ) she favors leaving the stains and applying the Neatsfoot oil so the stains may still be seen though possibly muted to give the belt some age. Since she is the chief Quartermaster and has gone to the trouble of sewing a period shirt for me for this event I have concurred. I shall stain a scrap of leather to test how effective the Barkeepers Friend is though so all is not lost on the help you all provided in trying to help me correct my situation. So, the finish will be Neatsfoot oil after burnishing the edges and do I cover boths sides of the belt with the oil? Thanks again for all the help. It is much appreciated.

This is a test from an iPad to see if I can copy and paste from the Notes app to this thread. (Worked) I was also able to use the quote function as you can see above. Interesting in that on the PC which is running Windows 7 Home Premium Service Pack 1 I can't get either to work. So, if I want to copy and paste or use the 'Quote' function I'll use the iPad. Thank's King's X for your reply.

I've been trying to find an FAQ for the Leatherworker forum but have not been successful. If there is one were do I find it? Questions like why can't I cut and paste to a thread or why the quote button only works sometimes? The above does not mean I'm not enjoying the forum. I'm finding it very helpful and with a lot of talented, friendly folks. A big thumbs up. Thanks

Thanks very much Bob. You've hit on what I was concerned about when I first became aware of glass burnishing and that was the stretching of your pattern piece after being cased. I'll put the sticky back shell paper on the grocery list. I happen to have a glass burnisher on the way for the next project, swivel knife and tooling practice.

Bob, dying maybe the final choice. I happen to have some dark brown left over from the 18th Century Pouch project.