splinters

Alright Bob, I do have some Realemon in the fridg and I found the Barkeepers Friend. This gets more interesting as we go. The belt may end up looking like it is well used from the past and will fit right in for what started this whole thing. Another story for another time..... LOL

Hello JLS, Thanks for joining in and adding you information about the wetting and the mallet. One thing I've learned for sure, and I'm old enough I shouldn't have to relearn it, is that if you don't know what your doing ask before proceeding. On to trying the Oxalic acid treatment. This is all good experience for me.

Hi Bob, Well, it looks like the next step is to try the Barkeepers Friend. I'm glad I made this error because its one that will stick in my mind from now on.

Thank's Bob. Just looked under the sink in the kitchen because I had a can of the powdered Barkeepers Friend down there for cleaning my stainless steal skillet. Can't seem to locate it right now...... Is that the stuff? Thanks again.

Thanks Halitech for taking the time to post to my question.

I've started working on a plain hide belt and think I've messed in my nest already. Yesterday I soak the buckle end of the belt so I could form the belt around the buckle tongue and avoid splitting the leather. After soaking the leather for approx. 2 hr. before forming and then dry the belt over night I have a dis-coloration at the point on the belt blank where it exited the water. It is still a little damp in that area. Though a little disappointed at this it is my "lets start learning some basics again old man". Any suggestions or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. My intent is to finish the belt with neatsfoot oil, no tooling.

Would you use a Glass Burnish on a pattern part after it has been cut to size?

I did find this small bag leather that I used for another purpose and thinking, after trimming the end with the holes, I would see how much weight using #8 shot I could get into it and then hand stitch closed the open end. A starter weight maybe plus some hand stitching practice. (Also wanted to try attaching a photo to see how that goes.)

Do any of you use a weight on your project as a third hand as you do tooling? If so, would you tell me what you like to use? Thanks

Any plans for the S&W revolver N frame for the model 625 for example?

Hello oldhat and welcome. I've been a member since last year but just started posting recently. I too am returning after a long absence and looking forward to getting started again. Cheers

Your welcome Bob. Thanks for your comment concerning the Barry King swivel knife. I don't know that I would want something fancy later since it is function and quality I'm more interested in when it comes to tools. Going through some of the few tools I have left from my early try at leather work I did find my old 60's era, IIRC, Tandy swivel knife. Is in good shape. It has a 1/2" barrel with two knifes one of which is a 3/8" and the other a 1/2". Anyway, I'm considering the Barry King swivel knife with the 3/8" barrel and a 1/4" thin blade as a starter and would like to hear any thoughts on that. I also think I would like one of their basket stamps plus a border stamp to go with that for a belt once I know which of the designs in those two stamps I would like and the sizes I should chose. Finding some info, book, articles, or threads here on the net, related to doing basket weave designed belts that may get me off to a good start would be a big help.

Well I've decided to get the Barry King small round maul. I do have a dead blow hammer that I plan to use for things like punching holes and only using the Barry King for stamp work. Thanks again gents. P.S. I did notice that Barry King also has a swivel knife........... hum.

Thanks gents for posting your info about the mauls and where to search for a tooling slab. Makes good sense. BTW Bob, took a look at C and B Leather. Very nice work.

Thanks for that Bob, that's good working info. I'll be doing primarily belts and thinking of starting by trying my hand at learning basket weave stamps. So, now I obviously need to locate somewhere I can purchase a marble slab of adequate size. Thanks for the welcome back and info again, Pat

After a long absence, and I mean a long absence, I have returned to the craft and need to ask some questions concerning basic tools I should purchase and I hope you all will bear with me. The first question concerns which mallet to select by head material, shape and weight. Those many years ago I had a rawhide mallet that seemed to serve me well but on studying Springfield Leather's online store, saw their ad here so decided I would start with them as a supporter of the forum, I discovered a number of possible choices. I like the shape of the Barry King Maul but for starters I may select something a little less expensive in the rawhide or poly head. I see that some of these can be selected by weight and there I don't have a clue. There seems to be more selection today than in my yester year. I sure would appreciate any suggestions or thoughts you all may wish to share. Thanks, Pat P.S. What brought me back happen in this last year and is the fault on one T.C. Albert and his book "Recreating the 18th Century Hunting Pouch". I followed his step by step to make a replica of Albert's North Hampton pouch . That really got the fires started again. My icon is a photo of my finished pouch. Fun!

Thanks very much gents for the choices and side effects.

Jameson, I was going to start a thread asking the same type of questions but on finding yours I decided not to. I would like to ask one more question though and hope you don't mind. Do you soak the buckle end of the belt placing something similar in size to the buckle axle between the fold of the damp belt and leaving to dry to avoid cracking the leather? Thanks. P.S. One more question.... do you case the leather before cutting the stitching groove?

If I understand correctly then the rubber cement would be OK to temporarily hold two pieces together that I was going to stitch together. Thanks for taking the time to set me straight.

How about using rubber cement that has been thinned to a brush able consistency, applying to both pieces and letting dry before pressing together?