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TwinOaks

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Posts posted by TwinOaks

  2. Posted · Report reply

    You shape one end like an arrow, and on the other end you make a slit that's about 2/3 the width of the arrow. To fasten, fold/wiggle/shove the dart through the slot and it will hold. Think of the way a donut box closes.

    The advantages of this method is that there's no additional hardware, and it lays flat. Wrap the slot end first, then bring the tab around and over...then push the tab down through the slot. Both 'ends' will be under the bracelet.

    Disadvantage is that it needs a little more leather (1.5-2 inches) and that it has very little fashion appeal....unless you like the rugged look.

  6. Posted · Report reply

    It depends on how you dyed it. I've used "liquid latex" before to completely pull ALL the dye off a piece before.....which is a shame because I was only trying to mask an area with it. But the results still stand.

    If you've already sealed it, you can try some deglazer to remove the top coat...but it's a pretty harsh chemical. Work in a well ventilated area, and you'll need to re-condition the leather after using it.

  10. Posted · Report reply

    That kind of thickness/density will likely either stop it, break the needle, or knock it out of time. For getting through tough or thick things like that you'll need to pre drill the holes.

    The only type of machine that COULD do it...maybe...would be a needle and awl machine...something along the lines of a Campbell high lift. But I think that 3/8ths of UHMW would be pushing it even for that machine.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    I think that you have failed to adequately research the subject. DDT does play a fairly active role in some areas of 'Leathercraft'. Since you are the one writing the dissertation, I would like for you to investigate the following:

    Laser cutting and printing for logos, labels, tool making, and image transfer, and,

    The use of CAD programs to design and lay out patterns for carving, and garment / accessory patterns.....especially in the garment/accessory industry.

    DDT for making tools and equipment that we use, like sewing machines, knives, and stamps. In this modern age, technology is used quite a bit.

    As to why people don't use DDT? Part of it is traditional methods creates what we want, where technology doesn't. There are numerous forays into making easier to use tools, but almost every one of them is very limited in it's actual ability. And the most important reason is that while technology can produce the tools, it can not replicate an Artisan's touch. Nor does typing in commands give the sense of achievement, the sense of pride, of CREATING something. If you've not done it, you simply can not understand it. You may understand the concept, but there's much more than conceptualization at work.

    Then there is a cost analysis to consider. Much of the DDT is simply too expensive for the average person to purchase, and requires a good bit of space for storage. If it were feasible, I think every one of us like to would have a laser table, a 5 axis CNC, and a boat load of stock materials. That way we could sit down, type in a few commands, and have the pebbler, or bargrounder we need for a project.

    Lastly, some types of working with leather requires something that a machine can never produce....the sense of feel. Sure, you can mention moisture detectors, pressure detectors, thermometers....those can give readings. But they can't 'feel'.

    You've got a good bit of research ahead of you, and I STRONGLY recommend that you do NOT perform ONLY academic research. Find a leather worker near you and go spend time with him. You need to feel how leather behaves to understand. Perhaps you could even start working with leather; that way you can look at a process and compare it with the abilities of DDT.

    If all you do is ask a bunch of people about anything at all, you have only the opinions of others.

    You need experience.

    Now, go get your hands dirty.

  16. Posted · Report reply

    The marks are caused by too much pressure on the presser foot, ease off the tension until the leather lifts a little on a test stitch, then increase it slightly. That will set your pressure at 'enough to hold down the leather' but not be too much.

    The blowout can be caused by a dull needle, needle size, as well as the leather itself.

    I crease my guide lines and let the machine pull the stitches into the grain.

  17. Posted · Report reply

    Too much presser foot pressure can cause the leather to push down into the needle slot on the bottom. That little 'pooch' of leather can clog up in the slot and cause 'drag' that prevents the leather from moving correctly. When it pooches out 'far enough' it'll interfere with the loop being pulled into the hole, lifting the leather a little...which makes the whole thing 'jump' ahead to where it needs to be.

    This can also be caused by a dull needle that blows out the leather on the back side instead of neatly puncturing it.

    Too little presser foot pressure can cause it to move backwards when the needle lifts to reset.

  20. Posted · Report reply

    I do agree that effectively 'folding' or 'wrapping' the holster around the user's waist will change it's properties....I apparently misunderstood the intent of your post. I thought you were saying that the holster (type) was built so that it NEEDS to be tightened up by the belt.... Can you build to accommodate the curvature of the wearer? Most certainly...it's one of the aspects of fitting a holster to a person instead of making a generic 'one size fits all' pattern.

    One of my friends is a local LEO and is on their version of SWAT. In FULL tactical gear and weaponry he scales out at 205lbs. He's one of those wiry guys that eats a 16oz steak and loses weight in the process....and he can hide behind a 2x4. Putting a holster on him requires either a single point attachment or widely spaced belt loops because he has a 26" waist (and incidentally my favorite belt customer because it takes NO time to make one for him). Any narrow width holster gets pulled too severely....the standard Tagua wraps so far around him that it's almost like folding the 'wings' up to make a box. Even kydex paddle holsters 'flare' out away from his profile.

    On the other side of that coin is my friend who runs the gun store - He's pushing 380lbs, and obviously has a much larger radius at his hip. Holsters with closer slots work well on him.

    So I think we're in agreement after all, and that the guy posting the info on the other board is correct.

    I've made some flat back holsters, and in using them I've found that once the holster breaks in, there really isn't any difference because of the placement of the molding. Depending on how it's designed, the stress of supporting the holster/gun will be either mostly on the back panel, pretty equally shared by the front and back, or mostly on the front panel. If you build to support the holster, then once it's broken in, you'd have to be intentionally over tightening the belt to make it deform. My support of this line of thinking is the design of holsters with exotic inlays. For those, the front panel is mostly flat because it's more difficult to get detail molding when you have extra layers. Retention is achieved through molding on the back panel.

    Also, two layers of leather molded in a tight curve (like at the top of the gun) will resist collapsing pretty well. For people like Katsass, who build with doubled leather -grain out on both-, the holster is pretty dang stiff. 'Mouth bands' on IWB holsters is simply an abbreviated second layer to provide that support.

    ETA: If I screwed any of that up in my description, I'll fix it later. I'm still trying to figure out why I'm up and awake at 02:15.

  23. Posted · Report reply

    I was in a thread on another board recently where they were saying the the "belt retention" is made worse if the holster is molded as much on the back as the front. Basically, the belt routing around the gun mold is what tightens it up when worn.

    If I'm understanding this correctly....the idea is that the tension from the belt going around the gun is what holds the gun in place????

    Whoever is giving that advice needs psychatric help.

    The HOLSTER should hold the weapon in place.

    A proper holster will:

    Hold the weapon in place to prevent loss, and still provide a reasonably release from the holster;

    Keep the weapon in the same position every time (because muscle memory from training will have you grabbing at where the gun is supposed to be);

    Provide adequate room for the user to attain a full firing grip before they ever unholster the weapon;

    Serve a dual role of protecting the user's body parts from the gun as well as protect the gun from damage (sweat, bumps, scrapes, etc.)

    Usually, all this can be done and be comfortable.

    Looking good is an added advantage, but the holster should be able to do those things on it's own. The wearer of the holster should NOT rely on running a belt around the weapon to provide secure carry.

    _____

    If the intent of the quoted lines is that the belt is what tightens up a holster so that it WILL perform correctly.....

    See above,

    A belt simply holds the holster in place. It should NEVER play a critical role in the retention/function abilities of a holster

    Once upon a time, I had some differing ideas about gun leather....I was fortunate enough to have several people who make holsters for a living set me on the right road.

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