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Posts posted by TwinOaks
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I think it was the angle of the pic. The view of the rear makes it look quite a bit higher than the front view. In the front view, it looks like the entire hammer is above the shield which is what prompted my comment.
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I'm 100% sure that Tandy doesn't actually have a tannery.
Tandy is a retailer/supplier and they buy their hides from tanneries like Herman Oak, and Wickett and Craig, as well as other tanneries in other countries. You may have a local Tandy store, but they are only middle men. If you have not had a good experience with your local store, please check out our suppliers in the ad banner.
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This is soooo going to kill my budget.
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As they have "Hermes" on the fastener, I think it may be made just for them.
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Yer killin' me with all the bird skin....
ONE more holster with Ostrich, mister, and I'm gonna have to try some.
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Beautiful finish, Chris. The lines are not overdone and it makes it more appealing than something molded so tightly you can read the roll stamp.
The only thing I can see is that the sweat shield doesn't appear to be quite tall enough.
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There's a lot more to 'finishing' than just slapping some dye on it. Look into 'antiquing', as well as 'block dyeing'. Take a look at some of Peter Main's work to see what can be done (lots of skills required) with dye. http://petermain.com/parent.htm
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You can cover it or you can slick it....search 'slicking the flesh side'. Covering it will look best, IMO.
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No guarantees (of course) but look up UKRay, one of our moderators. He has his own shop and was hunting some machines a while back...he probably has all that he needs at the moment, but might be able to point you in the direction of some other interested parties.
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Check with ARM leather works...I think he was doing some graphic design on the side.
Somebody on here posted a long while back that they were working on a graphic arts degree and had offered to do some designs for members to build their portfolio....I just can't remember exactly who it was.
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The 111 is a clone of the Singer 111, and there's been some discussion about their machines on here.
The small portable machines are not suitable unless you're assembling chrome tanned items. The feed dogs leave noticeable tracks on the back side of the leather.
Several members tried them....then ended up selling them.
The produced one of the videos showing how the MC-SCR was so much superior to 'servo' motors. I pointed out that they never revealed what kind of wattage comparisons they were making, and IIRC, they never responded. It's pretty easy to show superiority when the motor you're using is a 1/2 horse power stronger.
My opinion is this: Sailrite was trying to get a foot in the market for leather machines, by touting one of their sail machines as capable. It very well may be. But when you look at the cost of the 111 with the -SCR, you're over the price of a more capable machine (Consew 206...more thread capacity and more clearance under the foot).
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I checked it out and FF won't get to it.
IE will access it, but still pops up security questions. Load speed is abysmal.
Chrome will access it AND shows it as a secure site. Load speed is just above abysmal.
It's almost like there's a proxy server in North Carolina that's talking to another server somewhere else in the world.
All 9 pages will show, but the search function yields ZERO results, whether I search, 'category', 'primary material', or 'price range'...or any combination of those.
Over a month ago the site claimed they would have everything squared away. That still needs to happen, IMO.
Currently, the pages don't display in all browsers and not all the functions work on the pages.
To the owner/operator of Craftstack.com........there's still a LOT of things you need to get repaired, and some things you need to develop. Some of the 'issues' described by Cyberthrasher were wholly accepted, yet never implemented. I'm NOT an IT pro, but have dabbled enough to spot things that concern me. And a site that is released as 'ready to go', but isn't....well, that's one of them. Especially after 2 'pre-releases' to help identify problems.
The whole thing has one of two feelings to me- 1st is that you have a pretty good idea and are trying to run a site on your own, struggling through some of the technical issues. You're having problems with the tech side because you either won't or can't hire someone who speaks 'computer'. Either way, your efforts are suffering because of it.
The second feeling....well, unless there's some reported problems, I won't voice them.
In today's world of LOTS of people looking for work, I have a hard time conceiving that you can't find an IT professional or computer science major that isn't looking for a little side work.
I'm gonna bump this up to the boss, who IS an IT professional and get her input.
Incidentally, this is the 3rd announcement of a "new site" and offering 4 free months...seems like they're trying too hard.
And if this site has just started.....how can they be "popular"?
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I checked it out and FF won't get to it.
IE will access it, but still pops up security questions. Load speed is abysmal.
Chrome will access it AND shows it as a secure site. Load speed is just above abysmal.
It's almost like there's a proxy server in North Carolina that's talking to another server somewhere else in the world.
All 9 pages will show, but the search function yields ZERO results, whether I search, 'category', 'primary material', or 'price range'...or any combination of those.
Over a month ago the site claimed they would have everything squared away. That still needs to happen, IMO.
Currently, the pages don't display in all browsers and not all the functions work on the pages.
To the owner/operator of Craftstack.com........there's still a LOT of things you need to get repaired, and some things you need to develop. Some of the 'issues' described by Cyberthrasher were wholly accepted, yet never implemented. I'm NOT an IT pro, but have dabbled enough to spot things that concern me. And a site that is released as 'ready to go', but isn't....well, that's one of them. Especially after 2 'pre-releases' to help identify problems.
The whole thing has one of two feelings to me- 1st is that you have a pretty good idea and are trying to run a site on your own, struggling through some of the technical issues. You're having problems with the tech side because you either won't or can't hire someone who speaks 'computer'. Either way, your efforts are suffering because of it.
The second feeling....well, unless there's some reported problems, I won't voice them.
In today's world of LOTS of people looking for work, I have a hard time conceiving that you can't find an IT professional or computer science major that isn't looking for a little side work.
I'm gonna bump this up to the boss, who IS an IT professional and get her input.
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Well, this IS a leather working forum......have you considered making your own holster?
If you decide that you'd like to try it, we can help you with suggestions of material and methods, then help with the construction methods. You would end up with a truly unique holster.
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With any of the contact cements you may consider the bond to permanent. If you might need to reposition anything, then they are NOT the ones to use.
Apply as per directions on the can. I use Weldwood because I can pick it up locally.
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It may be that the weight of the pistol is being supported by only one side of the flap. It is, in effect, falling 'lop sided'. Putting the rivet in not only pulls the flap tighter, but also makes a 'stop' to keep the trigger side of the holster from riding up.
In my suggestion, I said ".lay out the body of the holster...", meaning the part around the actual gun. Instead of having the full flap behind the holster, I had intended that it be cut shorter and stitched directly to the back of the body. That would eliminate the 'flop' of the holster and provide a built in 'anti-tilt' stop.
However, I didn't include diagrams or anything, so it'd kind of hard to know exactly what I meant...
You still did a very nice job on it, and the rivet should last forever (it looks like a copper rivet).
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Yes, 'sun tanning' is really just that - It's exposure to UV. You'll have faster results leaving it in direct sun, than in a window as the glass blocks some of the UV.
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You need to relieve the holster at the bottom of the trigger guard to allow a full grip. I'd start at the second stitch hole(maybe the 3rd) and take a 30 degree line from there, possibly sweeping the angle into a light curve.
Ditto the leather on the back, but you also need to make sure the mag release is not covered.
What you have will probably be 'okay' but I like to take the stitch line in front of the trigger guard a lot tighter to the actual profile..aka tighter molding. After all, the holster will support the gun at that point....preferably with a near horizontal line. The straighter the line, the less you need to even consider how much the leather will stretch. As it is, the leather could possibly stretch from constant or repeated pressure and allow the gun to droop in the holster until the edge of the trigger guard is almost at the current stitch line....which, from the looks of it could allow drooping of up to half an inch. That bit of space would interfere with the full firing grip.
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It's buffing compound....basically the same stuff.
buy it at lowes...next to the grinding and buffing wheels
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once you upload it, don't forget to click the 'add to post' button on the right side of the screen.
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The compound I use seems like it's in a hard wax base, as it won't build up on the leather unless a lot of friction heat builds up. As such, I think you could scrap it off, if you needed to. Most of the time I just apply more compound over the old. If it builds up to the point that it's starting to flake off, I just replace it. There's LOTS of scrap pieces that can become a new strop.
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I can't recall the specific name of the tool, but it's basically an iron. They use heat to help form the edge . You can see a similar application here
at around 5:24. The cobbler is using heated tools to melt the wax into the leather, burnish, and make what I'd call embossing lines.As far as the edge wipe...I'd guess some type of edge seal...maybe wax based. The iron's heat helps seal and burnish it.
For all I know it's some type of thermal resin. Being a purse, it's likely chrome tanned leather, so edge appearance is probably more important than sealing against water.
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I'm in agreement with Eric. If it isn't a real weapon, then it needs to be very obvious for safety and security reasons. At a show, I'd think that the hosting group would insist on the standard 'blue', which is easily recognized, for the same reasons.
Plus, nothing else I use it that color blue, and when the desk gets a bit cluttered, they're easier to find.
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I went image hunting and found that on single action forums to biker forums.....not much on the maker at first....but my Google-Fu is STRONG!!!
The rigs are made by TStar Leather, and they even have a website...tstarleather.com.
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