TwinOaks

For specific things, I REALLY like my boss, but the throat depth does create some limitations. That is not a complaint, merely an observation. +1 Particle's answer, as everything that the Boss can do it does very well. Having it has dramatically sped up production times for most items I make, and having a portable base (made it) means that it can be set up on a table, counter, etc. I suspect that even with the long arm powered stitchers, there's STILL some things that need to be hand sewn. Knowing the machine's limitation of throat depth just means that I have to lay things out differently.

I like the way you're thinking....

Any of y'all in Singapore doing any holster work? I ask because about two years ago I was contacted about making a holster for a guy in Singapore and using an Ostrich he harvested on safari. We could never get around the issues of getting it into the U.S. (U.S. Customs), but that wouldn't be an issue with any of you there. Contact me via PM if you can do the work, and I'll pass on the info on the customer.

Welcome! Grab a stool and stay a while, we're glad you found us.

Welcome to the best site on the internet! Like Bill said, don't hesitate to ask questions, and we'll do our best to help you out.

If you use a large enough needle, you can use the same size top and bottom. Smaller needles mean smaller holes...more attractive. Generally, you use a smaller size on the bottom because you can only get a certain amount of thread in the hole made by the needle. Most leather sewing machines create a lockstitch, which means there are 4 thread diameters being squeezed into a hole. (you count both sides of the loops). By using the smaller thread on bottom, you can get by with a smaller needle (thread doesn't need as much room).

Acrylic floor polish can be used in place of Resolene. Here in the States, it's sold under several names. The one I use is labeled "Mop n Glo". Apply in the same manner, but depending on the concentration of the stuff, you may/may not need more than one coat. If you can get down the the hardware/lumber store (your equivalent to LOWES) look for a wood finish called "Deft". Available in satin, semi-, or gloss. Smells and works just like neatlac. However, it is sold locally as an aerosol, so I suggest spraying directly onto a rag or scrap of wool and rubbing on instead of spraying on the leather. If you do spray on the leather, you'll still need to work it in with a cloth.

+1 Lobo, but I think you left off one... Q: Will you match the price of the guy selling 'name brand' knock-offs for $10/holster. A: No. Please excuse me, I need to get started on the IWB for a S&W 500 Mag.

Linoleum scraps. There's some LONG pieces available if you ask nicely. These can be rolled for storage...just not too tightly.

All you need is an awl, some needles and some thread. The groover and overstitch wheel do help, though. And.....until you build some callouses, some little finger protectors so you don't get too sore.

Very nice color choices, and nice job on the molding, too. Is the pistol fully inserted in the holster in the second pic?

Veg-tan is generally the only thing I'll use for lining holsters. Chrome tanned leather has residual chromium salts from the tanning process and could damage the finish of a firearm.

Twist the rope tightly before applying the tape, then, as said, cut through the tape and rope together. Melt end, then apply super glue to the last half inch (above the melted end). Or....whip the end (I use dental floss).

I haven't seen it stated that you'll have a contract.....is this a verbal agreement, or will there be a written contract? This is CRUCIALLY IMPORTANT. You are potentially looking at a lot of money, so there needs to be NO question about who does what, how much money changes hands, where the scraps go, etc. All of the above is good advice, and as usual, the devil is in the details. My plain belts start at $65. That's for a good piece of leather (9/10oz) sized to the customer's request ( I make it like they want if they don't accept my suggestions....if they're wrong, well they'll pay me to fix it), finished edges, slicked flesh side, dyed and sealed, with a skived and folded tongue, and a belt keeper. From there, it goes up. Lined? Tooled? Conchos? Ranger style? They're all available, but it all costs money. The most expensive one I've made so far was $100, and I think I fairly well gave that one away after I looked at the cost of materials (leather,conchos, and buckle) and time (layout and stitching of raised pieces between the conchos). It's all good though, that one belt has made orders for 3 more....at more appropriate prices. You are doing the right thing by asking LOTS of questions. I didn't realize how badly I was shorting myself until I had a friend price my products for me. When told me he quoted $100 for the above mentioned belt, my eyes bulged out and my jaw dropped. When he said the customer whipped out the money with quickness, I grinned. I think the most common mistake for those of us getting into this business is that we underestimate the quality of our work and the value that quality has to our customers. It's good to get other people's perspectives.

Great minds, Holly, great minds.....

Steven, I don't think Jack meant to post something untrue, but was speculating. I re-read the posted email (twice) after reading your post. In a quick scan, it looks like WC is providing your hides.....but....on closer reading it appears that WC will be producing hides per your specifications, which is quite a bit different. Is this the case?

Makes me wish I was a salesman....

Naw, after about 10 minutes of spraying, you won't care about them at all.........